enginear joe

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About enginear joe

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    Lewiston

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  1. PRR T1 kitbash from 2 Hudsons

    That's exactly what the primer is for! You can block sand the primer if sandable. You could skim coat any areas with a sandable filler. Some guys use auto body fillers, and then block sand. Don't put it anywhere you can't sand. You could also just weather the areas to look like rust has taken it's toll too. Depends on what era you want it to represent? As delivered or near end of service?
  2. PRR T1 kitbash from 2 Hudsons

    Ohhh, she is closer to painting!
  3. ES44AC scratch build

    too many wires!! ???
  4. PRR T1 kitbash from 2 Hudsons

    There are some pictures that show a bit of more detail. I would post on a real trains forum for any ideas of what's going on under the hood. I really don't know? Of course, they probably changed over the different models too.
  5. PRR T1 kitbash from 2 Hudsons

    I can see her finished now. She's going to look great. This engine has a look of all business. Very stoic. The paint will advance it so much.
  6. PRR T1 kitbash from 2 Hudsons

  7. Milwaukee Road Skytop Lounge

    https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/3d-printing-a-milwaukee-skytop-lounge-car#lastReply
  8. bearings in everything!

    We shouldn't have to spend our time modifying every piece of equipment that we get. Unfortunately that's what I have to do. Couplers won't couple, lights draw too much or melt stuff, engines throw their traction tires or simply wear out trying to pull cars that used to roll "OK". etc. etc. Why is it taking so long for toy trains to get all LED lighting across the board in everything? How do manufacturers sell engines with plastic gears and rolling stock that drags? Why aren't their speakers inside the steam engines? Bluetooth is not a foreign rock band by the way! Ah well. I keep complaining but stuff changes slower than...... So I have to make things better. I have to take any lighted cars I buy and modify them. The LGB Genesis series' lighting burns up from my voltage settings? All the brands flicker like there's lightning going off inside the trains. & Where's the passengers? Now some cars have quit rolling.... Urrrggg!!!!
  9. Stretched MTH passenger trucks

    I went over this whole post again while I have another car apart to add LEDs. I'm thinking of adding BBs to the trucks to roll better. Here's a pic of Jack V's cars I believe from the club web page. I believe Bob's cars are just as nice.
  10. 3rd set of staging tracks done

    I had many plans that never came to fruition. I built another shelf in the garage to hold my passenger trains. It did not connect to the layout. It was down low to the ground that made it difficult to use. So I finally connected it so I can just run the trains in and out. It is way steeper than I would like but it does work! It's much easier than carrying cars in and out. I can modify it later if needed. I just needed to get it done. Of course that let me find many flaws that never got addressed. I need to swap all the cars to KDs. That would fix the trains breaking apart from drooping couplers. I need to finish the rest of the fleet's conversion to all LEDs inside. That is something that I can't believe it's taking manufacturers so long to do.
  11. Show us your engines!!

    Nice catch! I wanted them too. I have two sets already. I also got the PA set so I really have to stop! Who had the sale?
  12. 4-8-4 1:29 Brass

    I was thinking more about my comment above. If and when those tires ever gave you any issue, you could always add new tires after some quick machining. We have a guy who installs them with stainless tube cut and machined to specs. He can insulate the tire as well if needed. He helped me convert a 3 rail O gauge MTH Allegheny over for 2 rail use. So I see how he did it. The thing is, as with yours, I added power pick-ups to the lead and trailing truck as I found it easier to do there. That helps the engine go over my dead frogs on switches. It was hard to do on the main drivers, as one side had the tires insulated. So a spark would jump to the driver and cause a short whenever the brushes moved a hair. Time will tell you what to do. I over reacted to something I saw. This will be a great looking engine when you're finished and you should be proud.
  13. 4-8-4 1:29 Brass

    You are doing a beautiful job. I only meant choosing brass for the rims, and it also appears for the siderods. Because it's a softer metal, it's easier to work with. However, that maybe it's major weakness when used in high wear areas. I really did not mean to detract from your work.
  14. 4-8-4 1:29 Brass

    I wouldn't know for sure. I've heard that brass drivers needs to be coated at the least? I would think stainless rims would be needed to hold up to the rigors of use outside? I would also lube the heck out of those siderods to keep them from wearing fast. I too think the workmanship looks great. I'm just wondering about the choice of materials?
  15. PRR T1 kitbash from 2 Hudsons

    Wholly smokes Bob, I forgot where you live! Aren't you leaving? Stay in touch. Let me know if I can be of any help.