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enginear joe

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Posts posted by enginear joe
 
 

  1. On 2/18/2014 at 10:14 PM, enginear joe said:

    If anyone wants to add command to these K-line trucks, one pick-up lead on each truck is tied to one tab on the motor. I believe that lead needs to be separated.

    These motors are very weak and easy to stop just by rubbing the flywheel slightly. I'll have to see how the end up running and performance wise. I installed the new NWSL delrin gears inside each and will watch how they hold up as well.

     I didn't mean to interrupt this NWSL truck post. By the way, those side frames look really good to me! Wish I would have known about them. I will probably get my hands on some 1/29 scale ones and chop them down.

     I do wish MTH would have released more modern stuff like a switcher, Larry. It looks like you were way ahead of anyone I've seen posting on other forums with your work. I'm scratch building some and haven't mastered it yet.

    I should have updated this post.

     The motors inside these K-line trucks are not weak. I had an issue long ago and forgot all about it. I did have to swap out all the gears which had cracked. These trucks are still running well with NWSL gears.

    I had a set of NWSL 2 axle trucks on a scratch build of mine. One worm kept slipping off and wrecking the pulling power of the engine. I finally replaced those trucks with a set of MTH ones.


  2. Wow those cars look great! I love the finish too. Great work here. I follow as much as I can. I have made small molds with varying success. It's an investment I think to make molds as big as you are making. I'm always tight on cash. So I have to find ways to make stuff cheap. The molds that you make, probably pay for them self fast when creating multiple cars or engines.

    I have so much stuff, that I don't have room for more. I wished we had moved into a bigger property. I am blessed with what I already have. So I just dabble in smaller ways now. I had dreams of several different long trains built like an Army train for example.


  3. Well, definitely test it again after sitting. The problem is a classic one that the DC motor probably smoked itself and the damage won't go away now. Just like the real thing, a AC motor can be stalled without damage. A DC motor fries itself if worked too hard. Heat is a major enemy too.

     What exact motor did you use? The stock MTH Hudson motor?


  4. I contacted Ray, who I purchased it from. There was no better part available or anything else he could do. I moved forward. It works better now than before. So what did I break?

    The whistle smoke tube was partially blocked. It smokes better out of the fill hole than the actual whistle. 

    looks like you win! You're a real winner!


  5. The reason I even looked at the smoke tube is because it was partially blocked. Not because I was bored or wished to take my brand new BB apart for kicks. If I feel that a reply is out of order, I do not make the reply. There are many times I've held back from your posts. I can only suggest you relook at the situation.

     When I pay 1500 for an engine, I expect it to be right. I have learned to deal with all types of problems and people.


  6. Here's a post about the Lionel Vision line Niagara. Half way down the page are more videos from the OP of the engine running on the track with the smoking whistle. Notice how much air (smoke) moves when the whistle blows.

    https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/a-look-inside-the-new-vl-niagara?page=1

    I hope there's a way to tune the whistle smoke on the MTH BB. It comes out of the fill hole when left open so much stronger than out of the actual whistle (hole).

    I may try to make my own tube to connect the smoke unit to the whistle.

     

 

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