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jaug

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    Male
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    woodworking, carpentry, fishing, electronic projects, trains
  • Location:
    Tinton Falls, NJ

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    jaug02@yahoo.com
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  1. I just want to pass along a very disappointing experience with Phoenix Sound. Starting last December when I received one of Phoenix Sound’s new SM-18 DCC / Sound board as a Christmas Gift for use in my Bachmann C-19. The SM-18 is supposedly designed to plug right into the C-19 main pc board and use all the functions of the C-19, lights, optical chuff, etc. I plugged the board into the C -19 socket and right out of the box it failed to function properly, after several emails and calls to Jim at Phoenix we fixed the functions but there was a memory retention problem, when power was shut off and then turned back on the board returned to the non functional state. Imwa stold to do a hard reset by lifting one side of the loco and tender off the rails when power was on, this worked but again when powere was turned off the same result. I was told to send the board back to Phoenix, it was returned after 2 weeks witht he same problem. I was sent another board and right out of the box it failed the same way. I was then told by Jim at Phoenix that he would send me a Revised Version of the SM-18 when it became available, that was in early February 2020, then the virus hit and the lockdown. After many many emails and voice mails to Jim at Phoenix which were never replied to, I finally was contacted in early October 2020 via email informing me that a new board would be sent within one week, that turned into 3 weeks. I received the new revised board and right out of the box it failed also, no motor control, no sound during running, no cab or firebox lights, no optical chuff function. I contacted Jim at Phoenix via email with an itemized list of the problems and he said he was to call me on October 26th to resolve the issues. That never happened and from then till now December 10th, no communication at all from Jim, no replies to numerous emails and phone messages, not one word. I am stuck with a non functional DCC board that costs over $200 and I am throughly disgusted with Jim for not being a man of his word and and with Phoenix Sound for not backing their product. I will never purchase another item of theirs and would highly not recommend them to any other modeler.
  2. Tom, F scale is 1:20.3 or 15 mm = 1 foot, it is not combined under the generic G scale category it is a scale by itself. The F stands for Fine and while the 3 foot narrow gauge models do run on the standard 45 mm track used by G scale models F scale 3 foot narrow gauge models or Fn3 are accurately scaled to the gauge of track (15 mm =1 ft) where as G scale models with the exception of 1:32 scale models are not accurately scaled per that gauge of track. F scale standard gauge models use 71.3 mm gauge track. Both Bachmann and Accucraft are two manufacturers of F scale models and most of the large scale 1:20.3 models sold by Bachmann are in fact F scale although Bachmann does not refer to them as such for whatever reason. You can find out more about F scale if you look up Cumberland Models Engineering on the net or Tom Millers F scale layout on YouTube
  3. I just saw this thread so sorry for the late comments. What a talented modeler you are I only wish I had your skills at machining and metal working this is a fantastic model and you should be very proud of your creation
  4. Anyone who converted to battery or otherwise removed the Main PC Board from a Bachmann K27 Tender, I would be interested in the board if still in undamaged working order. PM to jaug02@yahoo.com
  5. I have the following Bachmann Locomotives for sale, used like new condition, buyer pays shipping, if interested please PM me at jaug02@yahoo.com Last chance before listing on eBay Bachmann 2-6-0 Mogul, Black, Unlettered ( this is the Large Mogul NOT the smaller Industrial type ) $250 Bachmann Anniversary 4-6-0, White Pass $200
  6. I have remaining the following used track items for sale open to fair price offers, buyer pays shipping. Last chance before going to eBay If interested or for more info please PM to jaug02@yahoo.com LGB code 332 (3 pcs) 1615 LH Turnout with motors (6 pcs) 1605 RH Turnout with motors (36 pcs) 1060 24" Straight (1 pc) 13200 22.5 degree crossing (40 pcs) 1600 Curve (38 pcs) 1100 12" Straight (6 pcs ) 4 foot straight (these are new) Aristrocraft code 332 (1 pc) #6 LH Turnout (16 pcs) 10 foot Dia Curve (10 pcs) 11900 12 pack Rail Joiners Marklin code 215 (11 pcs) 5936 Curve Sunset Valley code 250 (80 pcs) Narrow Gauge Tie Strips Code 250
  7. I know this is a large scale forum but if anyone models in HO or may know another modeler in HO I have the following HO scale kits for sale I was in HO scale for many years before switching to F scale, I thought I had sold off all my HO scale items but last weekend I found several Fine Scale Minatures and Campbell Scale Models building kits, these kits are new never been built still in factory boxes, the boxes outside show a little ware but the kits inside are in pristien condition. Buyer pays shipping from 07724 Fine Scale Miniatures Kits Coal Dock #155 $80 Coal Tower #145 $90 The Depot #110 $75 Rail Car Shed #175 $110 ( HOn3 Kit) Engine House #35 $65 (this kit was started the stone foundation was glued on and the exterior walls painted green) Campbell Scale Models Kits Norm's Landing Boat Shop #396-1595 $80 Norm's Landing Pier #392-1595 $65 Norm's Landing Ice House/Cafe #397-1595 $75 Hamilton's Dinghies #394-2195 $90 Warf #307-1575 $30 Quicks Coal #386- $95 Produce Shed # $80
  8. So I've finally told myself it was time to start my indoor layout in the newer section of the basement of our 109 year old remodeled farm house. The newer section has a ceiling height of just a bit over 6 ft 2 inches which is just enough for my 6 ft 2 inch frame. I decided on module type bench work of 3 ft x 8 ft sections, made to be taken down easily because the wife is looking at houses AGAIN. When the home was renovated back in 2010 there was no consideration for using the basement for much other than storage, (isn't it just the way the model RR guy get the less than ideal basement). There are several obstacles in the way, I have to move the water heater including the water and gas lines and make some minor modifications and exceptions for the large HVAC ducting but it looks like it will work. I collected a bunch of 2 x 4s off projects which made the wall supports, front legs and ripped down pieces for the inner frame stringers. I used surplus 3 1/2" butt hinges to secure the legs to the front of the modules and the rear of the modules just slide into wooden brackets so to remove the modules just pull the hinge pins and lift up. there are no screws or nails holding the back supports to the masonry walls as I did not want to drill holes below grade, those supports are held in place by 2 screws into the floor joists at top and the bottoms held in place by 2 x 4 stringers which will also provide storage under the layout. The modules will not be screwed together rather held in place by notches in the rear supports and the butt hinges. The module outside frames are 2 x 3 with ripped 2 x 4 inner stringers, the sub roadbed will be 3/4" plywood with homosoate as roadbed for the ballast. The roadbed will only be under where the track will be, the scenery and buildings will be constructed on 2" thick foam insulation board on lift out sub assemblies, I used this method on my Christmas layout and it works great. Track will be code 250 Sunset Valley rail with Accucraft NG tie strips, I wanted to hand lay the track with wood ties and hand spiked rail but I'm 68 now and time is ticking, I'm estimating it should be about 250 ft of track. The section of basement I'm using is 11 ft 8 inches x 32 ft 7 inches. I haven't finalized the track plan as yet but it will be using a minimum of 10 dia. curves and #6 Accucraft turnouts. I have to accommodate a large HVAC duct running almost the entire length of the left side of the 32 ft wall so the benchwork on that side will be place to the right of the duct with a backdrop extending down to hide the duct but there will be a hidden run of track on a 12" wide shelf running on the other side of the duct against the outside of the 32 ft wall. Basically a single track main line design with passings sidings and switching where ever possible. As of today I've finished an "L" section of bench work and installed ceiling lighting.
  9. Here is the only diesel in my roundhouse bought it in non running condition got her running so I thought I'd give it a little sprucing up and better smoke. Installed a new cab light so the roof could be removable, replaced the head light bulbs with LEDs, added a small bit of detail to the controls, replaced the Bachmann windows with individual panes, Kadee couplers, new cut bars and chains, and Ozark Glad Hands and Valves Modified the Bachmann smoke units by replacing the wound coil with an 18 ohm wire wound resistor and some fiberglass wadding and added two mini muffin fans right behind each radiator vent to fan drive the smoke, still playing with the resistance for better smoke at lower voltage, Phoenix 2K2 sound board with custom volume control and battery switch board. Repainted black with yellow handrails. I tried to upload a video of the smoke but could not here.
  10. Depending on the material and the size of the joint I may use a combination of adhesives sometimes along with brass reinforcement rod as pins or brass flat stock. Here are a few of the adhesives I use the "Rapid Fuse" adhesives are super glues but they have a filler that seeps into any voids that may be in the material to be joined. Also is a pic of some Model Master Clear adhesive made primarily for window glazing plastic as it dries completely clear. I also use a Plastic Epoxy I didn't have a pic of here. I've had very good luck with "The Ultimate" adhesive
  11. Very Nice looking build I'm modeling in 1:20.3 narrow gauge but I'm longing to do some work in Standard Gauge as I enjoy bashing also, one thing I might pass along is be careful what you glue with "super glues" it's been my learning experience that these types of glues are great for small parts but are not so reliable for larger assemblies because they become brittle and will in fact crack with a minimial amount of pressure or movement in the glued area.
  12. I posted this in Indoor Layouts by mistake so just re-posting some photos of my Connie conversion. I purchased this Connie as a basket case, no gear box, pilot truck missing, numerous detail parts missing, like air compressor, sand dome top, whistle, and a lot of the piping plus the boiler section was in bad shape and the smoke box top was cracked at the smoke stack and the tender was not included, so figured, why not? She"s a free lance model so you rivet counters can have your say. The tank is a section of 3" PVC pipe split and widened and wrapped with a thin plastic sheet with hand embossed rivets, I added a second Bachmann steam dome and put lids on both, a new whistle, compressor with regulator, generator with base made from tin, built the walkway from brass and plastic and the ladder from brass, added a water hatch, relocated the bell and head light, added a rear light, cut the pilot down, made a new rear end cill and Kadee couplers fron and rear, gland hands and hose, the cab was completely modified and there are full cab and back head details using Trackside Details parts, including injectors, lubricator, steam turret, brake valve, new throttle, reversing mechinsim, oil firing valve (she's converted to oil and has a new oil tank thanks to a Bachmann 2-6-6-2), steam/air and oil/steam gauges, all related piping was added, a new cab LED light, electrical box, etc. All piping was made from brass rod and or tube. A TAS Smoke unit and Phoenix sound with reed switches mounted in each cylinder for chuff inputs. Airbrushed with Scalecoat 2 Loco Black (Matte)
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