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About LGB333

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    Large G Scale hobbyist for over 30 years. Buy, sell, repair, and install digital sound systems and digital decoders in LGB locomotives: Old Dominion Railways, McLean, VA. www.OldDominionRailways.com
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    McLean VA

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  1. LGB333

    G scale collection for sale

    Could you list the LGB locomotives you have for sale by LGB item number please. I'm mostly interested in LGB American steamers, e.g., LGB Forney locos, etc.
  2. I've been selling on eBay for many years the LGB locomotives I refurbish and upgrade with digital sound and/or DCC decoders, and my LGB locomotive repair/installation services. Finally decided to set up my own Webite to supplement my eBay postings: www.olddominionrailways.com Currently focusing on LGB Forney Steam Locomotives and LGB American and European Diesels........these are top quality upgraded LGB locomotives. Tom White LGB Railfan
  3. Okay, I chatted with the USA LGB Rep/Ron Gibson by phone yesterday and he suggested charging up the SUPS with 5 + volts for about 10 minutes. I did and it still didn't hold the charge to operate the sound unit but a few seconds at slow speed. He stated that the diodes in these LGB SUPS sometime are defected and should be replaced by the vendor. So yesterday I shipped it back to Only Trains for a new replacement. He also said that the LGB sound systems are really designed to operate best on DCC and are not a perfect match for the analog DC locos. He also said that Marklin/LGB doesn't have any plans for now in continuing to manufacture the line of LGB sound units. I mentioned to Ron that I have installed the Piko sound units in some locos and I've been very pleased with their operation. In fact, I installed the Piko 36221 analog unit in another LGB 27253 Forney locomotive and recently sold it on eBay. It does have a small battery built into the sound board that helps with the loco slow speed issue and engine sounds when coming to a stop. The whistle sound is fine but the bell is funky, ringing too unrealistically fast. But for the price @ $80 not bad overall sound unit. The Piko 36220 digital dcc/dc American Steam Sound Kit is really a good deal @ $140 - $180........is also a dcc power decoder. I installed one last year in a Bachmann Two Truck Shaw and sounds great on my DCC layout. The whistle sound has three versions you can choose from, and you can also adjust the chuff speed rate, easily done on my Massoth DiMax Navigator. The only thing missing: No connection on the board for wiring a engine cab interior light bulb. But excellent overall quality and features for the price.
  4. Okay, thanks for the suggestions. The SUPS is getting some input and works for a very short time after it's charged when operating the loco at higher speeds. But then moving to slow speed, apparently there's not enough power input to keep the SUP recharged to operate the sound system. I have not had this issue when I've installed LGB diesel sound units on LGB shunting diesels.
  5. I just finished installing a LGB 65001 steam sound board into an LGB 27253 Forney locomotive. I powered the sound board from the loco's rear axle truck wheels which are power pickup for the loco. I also switched out the other rear wheels (none power) pickup wheels with an LGB power pickup wheels and spliced these into the other pickup power line from the rear axle. Purpose of this is to give constant and even power. The sound works fine but I the LGB 65001 Sound Unit Power Storage unit does seem to hold enough charge at low speed to keep the sound board operating.......the owner's manual for it states to run the loco at high speed for 30 seconds. But when operating at low speeds there's insufficient storage power to keep the sound unit operating. Is this a defective Sound Power Storage Unit that doesn't hold any charge very long at low speed? Or is there a better way powering the sound unit from other wiring in the locomotive instead of directly from the rear truck? It's not acceptable to not be able to run the locomotive a low speed without getting the sound unit to operate. Suggestions please. Thanks Tom
  6. STATUS UPDATE: First, thanks, Neil, for the input........the diagram appears to be the wiring approach for the LGB circuit boards, not sure. But I did contact a person who does LGB loco repairs in California who used to be a repair technician for LGB of America, San Diego. He advised me to reprogram the LGB 55021 decoder's F1 feature from the existing button #1 to "0". I opened up my LGB D&RGW #50 diesel last night, reprogrammed the decoder using my Massoth Dimax Navigator controller and presto, the headlight and taillight and interior light now all can be controlled on/off with the Navigator's #9 button. I'll have to open up my 25 year old LGB White Pass Diesel that I converted to DCC using two 55021 decoders a year ago and reprogram those decoders the same way. This is very helpful information for those of us installing the LGB decoders. Of course, this approach only applies when totally removing the existing loco's circuit board and replacing it with an LGB decoder. Where the existing circuit board is retained with the decoder installed, the existing circuit board would normally control the lighting (directional front and rear lighting, and all lights including the cab light are turned on/off using a handheld controller's button #9.
  7. Seeking assistance from anyone experienced installing the LGB 55021 MTS/DCC/DC Decoders in older LGB locos with the "D" Motor Blocks. On two older LGB diesel locos, I've totally removed the existing circuit board and replaced with the LGB Decoder. Both of these locos have front and rear lights but also a cab light. The LGB decoder instructions do not fully explain the proper lighting connections under this type situation. The decoder has connections for the front and rear lights so the front light will activate when the loco moves forward, and then turns out and the rear light comes on when the loco reverses direction. But I'm not sure on the lighting connection for the cab light. I've currently wired it so the cab light stays on continually when I power up my Piko Central Station. I can turn the loco's lights on or off using my Massoth Navigator controller but it only applies to the rear and front lights of the loco. Attached is the LGB 55021 connections layout. LGB 55021 Decoder.pdf Can someone advise me how to wire the LGB 55021 decoder in order to have on/off control of the cab light too instead of it being constantly on? Thanks Tom
  8. Update: I think I've finally discovered the issues. First, I slightly bent up the two electrical pickup shoes on this small LGB diesel loco.......this prevent the wide shoes from touching the opposing rail (opposite polarity) while traveling through an LGB track switch frog. But it still was stopping through some switch frogs at very slow speed. Further investigation revealed that, due to the close proximity of the two pickup shoes to the front wheels, the loco was losing power contact through the switch frog because the left back wheel has a rubber tracking tire on it. So, final solution is to remove the rear left traction tire wheel and replace it with a regular wheel. I don't intend to pull heavy consists with the small diesel loco so operating the loco without a traction tires shouldn't be a problem. Also, some of my track switches have been on my indoor layout for over 20 years and the plastic frogs are somewhat worn which may be contributing to the connectivity loss. When I increase the speed to #3 on my Massoth Navigator controller, there's enough momentum to get through the frogs without the motor and sound unit stopping. On some of these type electrical issues, you need to play Sherlock Homes! Tom
  9. I have a brand new LGB 23191 (unlettered) Mogul posted on eBay or through this forum for sale: $895. I custom installed a LGB 55021 decoder into the loco and a new Phoenix Digital Sound Unit into the Tender. Sounds great and with the LGB Decoder's Back-EMF circuitry, the loco runs at a steady speed on curves and grades. Contact me if interested and you want more details and photos. I now have this loco plus a new LGB White Pass Diesel Switcher with LGB decoder and LGB Diesel Sound unit installed, plus four LGB small switch diesels (two DCC/DC and two only DC) for sale on eBay. Thanks Tom White
  10. The LGB plastic frog section of the switch..........this particular LGB diesel loco's electrical pickup shoe is too wide when it passes along the frog. For example, the right shoe on the right rail will slightly touch the brass left rail (opposite polarity) coming into the plastic frog causing a slight short that triggers the decoder and sound unit to momentarily stop and restart........sometimes to stop and shut down totally. Tom
  11. Hi - I switched to a Piko Central Station and Massoth Navigator for my indoor layout over a year ago after using DC operations for over 25 years and love it! I have no problems with my two Bachmann Climax/SoundTrax and one Bachmann Three Truck Shay/Soundtrax locos driving through switches. However, when I installed an LGB #55021 decoder and LGB #65000 Sound Unit in an LGB #2063 D&RGW Diesel recently, it works fine except when crossing some of the LGB switches on my indoor layout, i.e., it will stop momentarily (including sound unit) and then go. Most of the nine LGB switches I'm using are 30 degree but the two 22 degree switches cause the most problems. Sometimes if the loco is traveling very slowly, it will stop totally and I must push it slightly to regain electrical connectivity and movement again. I believe the two electrical pickup shoes are the cause of this. LGB pickup shoes are fairly wide and appear to be slightly touching the opposite polarity track rail when going through some of the switches. I had this same problem 11 months ago when I installed two LGB #55021 decoders and an LGB #65000 Sound Unit in my 25 year old LGB #20550 White Pass Diesel and ended up removing the two electrical pickup shoes and that solved the problem. In fact, I recall this larger, longer diesel loco actually caused my Piko Central Station to short out. When I discovered that one electrical pickup shoe was shorting out on a switch cure (depended which direction the loco was traveling), I removed the two electrical pickup shoes and that solved the problem. However, removing the two electrical pickup shoes on the small D&RGW Diesel appears more complicated due to the interior electrical layout within the motor block, and with only four wheels ( instead of eight on the larger diesel), the pickup shoes do help to ensure good electrical connectivity from the rails. If the pickup shoes were just slightly narrower, the problem would be solved, and I've actually considered grinding them down to reduce the width.......some tedious, nasty work. Wondering if anyone on this forum has had similar problems with LGB DCC decoder conversions on older LGB locos and developed a solution that I could use instead of having to either remove the LGB electrical pickup shoes totally, or reducing the shoes' width on a grinder and then reinstalling them?
  12. Thanks Mark_8, this may be the exact item I'm looking for! I'm going to assess the four different wiring items I just ordered and if none of them fits the bill, I'll trying the Website you provided. Tom
  13. LGB333

    Loco and Tender - Two Decoders?

    I recently converted my 25 year old LGB White Pass Diesel from DC power to DCC using two LGB #55021 decoders. I wired both decoders together so they would operate in unison. Alternatively, the LGB #55027 decoder allows use of just one decoder to control two motors. By the way, it's a pain converting these older LGB engine blocks to DCC due to there only being three electrical connections on the motor blocks: one each for track power with the third connection shared for the positive and negative motor operation. So I reconfigured the two engine blocks by installing a forth electrical pin for each motor.......lots of tedious work drilling holes and installing the forth electrical pin. An easier method I've since used on an older LGB "D" motor block is to insulate the "common" pin from motor connection and then solder a separate wire onto the motor. Then you can connect the four wires from LGB decoder as normal: The Brown and White wires to the motor block's track power connections, and the Green and Yellow wires to the motor block's motor connections.
  14. NEW - Never Used LGB # 22604 Schoema Diesel Locomotive with LGB DCC Decoder and LGB Digital Sound Decoder Installed........excellent sounding locomotive! Imported this locomotive from a European LGB Dealer and I custom installed a brand new LGB 55021 Decoder II and LGB 65002 European Diesel Digital Sound Unit and added a new upgraded 2 inch speaker that's larger and better quality than the LGB Sound Unit speaker. Locomotive has directional lighting and constant light in the engineer's cab, and lights may be turned on or off with the DCC controls. Comes with original box and LGB owner's manual and the LGB decoder and sound decoder owner's manuals. Both Decoders are set to DCC Address 3 but may be reprogrammed with your DCC operating equipment. Operates on either DC power or DCC power but the full features of the sound system are only available with DCC operations. The Sound System features the diesel motor operating, and individual control of bell, horn, braking sounds, compressor, air pressure relief valve, German "all aboard" announcement, diesel motor on/off, and all sound on/off. The sound volume is controlled by an adjustment nob that extends from the front engine compartment and accessible underneath the locomotive......no need to reprogram the sound decoder. DC operations will only provide the diesel motor operating sound. If you have any questions and/or would like to hear this diesel's various decoder sounds, send me an email at twhite212@gmail.com and I will respond by email with the 30 second iPhone video attachment. Selling for $645. I also have another one of these new LGB #22604 Schoema Diesel Locomotives without the decoder and sound unit upgrade........operates only on DC power with track magnet operated electronic horn sound: Selling for $375.
  15. Update: I just ordered four different 2 conductor wire items from HobbyLinc. Hopefully, at least one of these items will be flexible wire in the 26 - 28 gauge range that will be suitable for wiring locomotive and tender sound systems and other components. I'll post my findings after I receive my order later this week.