sse1478

Ray, The problem is solved! Thank you so much for your assistance! I ended up shimming axles #1 and #2 of the second set with 0.25" ID 0.5" OD 0.035" thick nylon washers obtained at Lowes. My local HD no longer stocks a a suitable washer. 1 washer was used on each side of the frame for a total of 2 washers per axle. These washers are about half the thickness of the ones pictured on your tutorial and leave enough play to navigate the R3 curves. I did not shim the first drive set. The underlying problem appeared to be the rod screws on #1 and #2 axles interfering with the piston linkage. I am considering your fuse mod and have 2 questions. 1. Was the underlying issue fixed with this new model? 2. Will it void my warranty?

I tightened all of the rod screws (1/4" hex if anyone was wondering) on both sets. None of the screws were loose and at most a 1/4 turn was applied. There is still about 1/16" of play with the linkage which I assume is to accommodate the curves. The binding is definitively occurring on the #1 axle of the second set and I do not see any visual obstruction caused by the linkage (I can only observe 1 side because my layout runs along a wall). The binding was freed by moving the locomotive side to side while still on the track. The binding occurred twice in a similar location on straight, level track about 6ft from any curve.

I understand 8ft diameter is not ideal but I do not have the room for anything larger on my indoor layout. I am hoping good track work with no grades will provide reliable operation. I will tighten all rod screws this evening after work and report my results. Just to make sure we are on the same page with terminology, driver axle #1 (of set 2) would be the one closest to the front of the engine on the second set. Also, I noticed the eccentric linkage on the second set can move about an inch side to side while the ones on the first set have very little side to side movement. Lastly, what is the best way to pick up the locomotive? I put 1 hand over the cab and the other under the boiler and just let the all the wheel sets dangle. Thank you again for all your help!

Ray, Thank you for the quick response! I think it is the second set. The #1 and #2 driver axles seem to have a lot of play (both up and down and side to side) I assume this is to accommodate the R3 curves. When the engine navigates an R3 curve the #1 driver axle is not always flush with the rail and rides on the flange. I am not sure if this is normal. How much play should there be between the linkage and the drives on properly tightened rod screws? Spencer

Hello everyone, I just took delivery of my Big Boy last week and it will occasionally bind and stop moving. The locomotive still has power and I can hear the motors trying to move the engine. This will randomly occur on perfectly straight track, when entering a curve, and when exiting a curve. This only occurs when going forwards I can usually back the locomotive out of the bind but sometimes it is completely jammed. The locomotive has a lot of play on the tack and sometimes I can free the bind by moving it side to side with my hands. I followed the lubricating instructions and have less than 0.5 hours of run time. I would like to avoid boxing it up and taking it back to the shop for service. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Spencer