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ssculptor

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  1. Ray, Thank you for this info. Sure is a long way from 1930's Lionel O gauge! I would like to convert all my G and 1 steam locos to simple linear (analog?). All battery powered. But to keep it simple (hah) use a seperate, simple radio control unit out of a flying model airplane to provide electricity and control to the sounds and the most humoungeous steam generator available. Is such a dual system possible? I see the controls of both systems being operated by me at the same time. Can you produce such a dual system? What do you think? Thanks, Stephen Auslender
  2. Yikes!!! I have been playng with model railroads on and off since the early 1940's. I fondly remember the "good olde days." You have a transformer and you hook it to the track, plug in in and then make the train go backwards and forewards. Toot toot. Works every time. This past few years I got back into trains big time. I pulled the older trains out of storage and and dusted them off. I also splurged and bought a bunch of used engines. Lots of track, too. Then I started to read strings like the one above. The next thng I knew I was wearing an old helmit and was running, panic stricken, for the old bomb shelter. You guys sure know how to scare an old geezer! Isn't there one system that can be fitted to all sorts of G and 1 scale locomotives to enble me to run locos. Make these trains run forward and back ward, control the sounds and the smoke? Thanks
  3. Please, where will it be held? Thank you.
  4. https://www.model-space.com/gb/build-the-d51-steam-locomotive-full-kit.html https://www.model-space.com/gb/build-the-c57-locomotive-full-kit.html Has anyone seen these yet? Just curious what gauge track would they run on, assuming one can motorize them. They are 1/24 scale but what was the standard track gauge in Japan in 1930-40's? Interesting items. Stephen
  5. Hi Chuck, I will reply to your questions one by one. First, I can operate machinery, lathes, mills, etc. I can do soldlering, welding, etc. Second, I want to spend minimum amount of money, naturally. I am in the process of learning about the control systems, DCC, DSS. When I figure that out I'll commit to it and gradually switch all my engines over to that. I like complicated switching problems. There I am in control of the movements and have fun solving knotty problems in train movements. I try to emulate as much of real locomotive operation as I can. To me an engine should emit copious amounts of steam at the appropriate times, should give off loud sounds reflecting the operations taking place. and of course, he trains should run. There are tapes where one listens to falling rain and that relaxes people. To me steam engine operation sounds relaxes me. Yes, i know I can do everything I want in G trains with sound tapes but I like the actual operation of the engines. If I were a millionaire I would have my own narrow gauge railroad and play with that. But that is all play. I enjoy manipulating and making things. I am a sculptor and I have this idea of combining my sculpture and model railroading to make a form of kinetic sculpture. Not sure where all this will go but one never knows. Life is an adventure and I never know what is going to come out of my efforts. That is what makes life so much interesting fun. Stephen
  6. That is great, just what I am looking for. The problem now is I have about 50 G gauge steam locomotives, ranging from an 0-4-0 up to a 2-8-8-8-2. Question is how do I install a sound/smoke unit in each. It will not be easy as they vary in size and they are produced by many different manufacturers. What I need to know is what is the best synchronized sound/smoke system to install in each of these different locomotives. I figure I can begin with a MTH ProtoSounds 3 decoder DCS or DCC and a MTH smoke unit. So where do I buy this equipment? I have not been in model railroads since the 1980's so I have a lot to learn.It will probably be easier to install a unit in the very common Aristocraft pacific. There are many of theses around and would be a good place to begin with. Any suggestions? Thanks, Stephen
  7. Thank you. I will contact them to see if there is a set up for steam locomotives, too.
  8. Two years our home caught fire which caused the destruction and making unreadable of my entire library of books and magazines (6,000 items). Our house is rebuilt and now that I am returning to G gauge modeling I would like to dispense entirely with power through the rails and go to all battery operation. Also I want radio control operation of the speed, sound, smoke, etc. But I really know nothing about any of this really interesting stuff. So I am starting over as if I was a newbie to model railroading. Are there texts or magazine articles that explain what all these different systems do and how do I make a decision on which to use? I do not know DCC from Airwire or any of the others. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help. Stephen
  9. Two years ago, almost to the day, there was a fire in my house. I lost a few G gauge locomotives entirely to the fire but my Aristo 2-8-8-2 was only badly damaged. Smoke, water and being trampled on by the firemen trying to get the hoses to the actual fire did a job on it. The firemen were not at fault, their primary duty was to put the fire out. They did a good job. I love 'em. Still, I would like to acquire one or more of these 2-8-8-2 beauties, in any condition!!! I can take a damaged locomotive and rebuild it to suit my railroad's style. I can also use parts. Or I can use one in operating or almost running condition. Whatever. If you have what I want and no longer need it yourself please let me know. Thanks, Stephen
  10. Ray, Thank you for this info. I was about to ask his question myself. However, I still would like to know what is meant when they give us the degrees. For example, a listing on eBay says LGB 1608 Right & 1615 Left Hand Electric Switch R3 22.5° ~ G SCALE Now, thanks to you I know that R3 means the radius is 3''-11" (7'-10" diameter). But what does the 22.5 degrees mean? I started to construct my outdoor railroad and was looking to make it large enoiugh to accommodate the big mallets. However, two years ago there was a fire at my home and my library burned. Well, that happens. But I wanted to construct my own switches and especially on a curve. I remember I had an article on how to make my own but its is all ashes now. Is there any source where I can get plans and instructions on scratch building my own switches in G gauge? Thanks again, Stephen
  11. Thank you Ray, I will get back to you on this. Thanks, Stephen
  12. Thank you, guys. Now that I know what can be done the next step is to set up my work room and unpack everything. We had a disastrous fire two years ago and are just now moving back into our repaired home. Its like living in a warehouse right now but we are making progress in unpacking, etc. This spring I will get the outdoor layout erected and I'd like to have all the trains carry their own batteries. I can run a 75 foot track each way and I do not trust getting even power to all parts of the route so I feel it best to have every train carry its own power source. Should be fun. Stephen
  13. Are you saying that I can install the required MTH boards and controls in any brand locomotive I have? I have just returned to G model railroading after years away from the hobby. Can I use MTH remote control,, too, in other brands of locos? Also, as long as I am on the topic, can I run all this with a battery power source? The tenders are pretty large nowadays and I could put batteries in them, or in the first car following the tender. Or, in other words, convert the whole shebang to MTH operations, including the smoke apparatus. Thanks, Stephen
  14. I would like to install sound boards upon which I have recorded the sounds I want. Has anyone had any experience with trying to do this? What equipment and software would I need? Anyone? Thanks, ssculptor
  15. I wonder if this is related to lead rot. Remember the old castings we bought for making model ships? A lot were cast in lead or an alloy of lead. Normally they last a long i but when painted trouble appears. Over time the coating of paint develops cracks, expansion/contraction due to temperature changes, rough handling, witchcraft, who knows? Nevertheless, the cracks allow moisture to enter the otherwise airtight covering formed by the paint. Over more time the moisture causes the lead to oxidize (rust) and turn to powder (lead oxide). Eventually the part crumbles. Ship model museums have a terrible time with this problem as some of the models have hundreds of tiny castings that are disappearing, taking down the rigging on sailing ship models. The better solution would be to cast all the parts in a better material, like brass or bronze or copper or stainless steel. Aluminum is not much better. Ever see an aluminum part that was exposed to the elements over years at a time? The solution? The manufacturer of the part must insist on purchasing casting material of a formulation that will not decay over time. Can it be done? or should I ask Whom do you trust? Many plastics are not much better. Otherwise I woiuld suggest 3-D printing. None of the 3-D printing materials have been in existence long enough to determine how they weather time. Maybe the solution is for companies to produce these intricate plastic parts using a proven (?) long age material. If I have a piece that has crumbled I would just reconstruct it in copper, perhaps. Maybe we will see an aftermarket industry appear where guys in their garages (heated) producing replacement parts using the latest 3-D printers and materials. This is an exciting time in terms of manufacturing of items using 3-D printing. Over time we have gone from the stone age through the bronze age, the metal age (otherwise called the iron age) and maybe now it will be known as the plastic age. So how does all this help all of us whose models are disintegrating before our very eyes? Good question. Stephen
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