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Rayman4449

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Everything posted by Rayman4449
 
 
  1. That is an amazing find! As the years go on it never fails to surprise the unique items that keep coming up
  2. Hi there, yes I am taking pre-orders. (Haven't added them to my website and wont be buying extra for inventory). Shoot me an email for what you are looking for. Thank you.
  3. Ignore the picture. Every description says F-3. They will be F-3.
  4. Now that will be a very interesting development if there is new tooling I'm going to place my bet/wish for the upgraded Challenger with die cast frames. With the way they have been releasing announcements on new products (one at a time via email), I'm not sure we will see anything classified as a catalog going forward but who knows!
  5. On the 24volts, would need to confirm with the revolution documentation for that DCC board what the recommended voltages were.
  6. Thank you Chuck Had not seen Revolution had a DCC board. Another option would be to send me the PS2 board with the complete heat sink assembly it is mounted to and I could send back mounted board already configured for the engine. You would still need to install the revolution board.
  7. Factory equipped MTH One Gauge Hudsons have Protosound 2 that controls all lights, smoke, motor. Engine can be controlled via AC or DC power and can run on conventional/straight track power or Digital control via MTH's Digital control system. Those amperage ratings on the Revolution should be ok. I dont sell battery conversion kits.
  8. Hi there, It for sure can be converted to run on Battery power but I dont personally have experience with installing Revolution Train engineer. I'm certain it can be done. You wont be able to trigger Whistle and Bell on the installed electronics via the Revolution, at best you could maintain smoke and chuffing.
  9. That is what I'm hearing too that we may see another run of Hudsons.
  10. Congrats and welcome! Can you take some much closer in shots of that part so I can see better? I'm not sure offhand what that goes to.
  11. Wanted to share that the SD70s have arrived and I now have these in-stock. In-house warranty (MTH no longer has a service department so it is critical dealers going forward do their own warranty work themselves or you are out of luck if problems arise). http://www.rayman4449.com/MTH/MTH_OneGauge.htm Raymond
  12. I agree with you on that! Bachmann Dash-9 prices are simply insane.
  13. Hi there, if you only add one car, does it work OK? Does that then completely fit on the 60cm section? There may be some things in not understanding but I think you have the right idea. If it runs fine with one car and it fits on a single section, I bet that is your problem. Im guessing this has to do with polarity flipping and with the last car not fully on the section it may be creating a short or causing and issue with the polarity functionality. So if it works with one car, then yes I would say need longer piece of track section to match the length of the train.
  14. Just to note, the size of the loop itself actually doesn't matter. Running a single engine around a 1000ft loop vs running around a 50ft loop, isn't going to change the amount of amperage used to drive the engine (or if it does, not materially). The USA Trains Power 10 is a 10amp power supply so that for sure will be enough to get started and depending on how many engines you want to run at the the same time, it may be enough for your use. (rated output is I think up to 24v? Does anyone know the rated output in VA/Voltamps/Watts on it?) Since you already have the power supply and assuming it works ok and isn't defective, I would say start with that. You can for sure run 2 engines at the same time, likely more. If the power supply was 3amp then yes I would agree that would be bare minimum. For power supplies above this power/amp/output rating, I generally advise looking at Bridgewerks throttle type power supplies and if you need more than the USA Trains Power 10 (ie where you are finding the USA doesnt have enough amperage output) I would go with a 20amp Bridgewerks throttle.
  15. Sure thing! You can have wires go to one point in the oval or multiple points. (ie on one end of a straight of track or on both ends). An issue that may come up is the quality of the rail connections at each rail joint. This is why it is important to go with direct to rail clamps at each and every rail joint location that connects rail ends together. Generally I recommend Stainless steel track and stainless steel clamps (Split jaw is the clamps I use), but may use brass track/clamps. If you have good quality connections you have less of a need for having jumper wires at other locations on the layout. Having additional jumper locations provides redundancy and ensures better reliability if a connection issues crops up. If you use the factory provided slider joiners you will have issues with track power at all the joints that will get worse and worse over time. (this is why many go battery power because they try to use slider joiners for track connections and they create more and more problems. Test the power supply with a 18-24v light bulb and see how the light looks when power is applied, it sound be consistently lit.
  16. Hi there, Bare with my questions as just trying to understand: - When you say down and back, you are basically asking being able to run the train one direction (forward) then make it run in reverse? Yes you can, you change the polarity/Direction switch on the power supply to change polarity to the track and it will make the motors run in the opposite direction. - When you say 4 phases, does this mean the track is electrically isolated? If isolated, what was the reason for doing that vs just having continuous electrical continuity at the track/rail level? I'm going to guess you just mean you are building out in sections. - What is causing the belief that cant get enough power on a small closed loop of track with the USA Trains Power 10? What are you seeing behavior wise? I have had customers report defective USA Trains Power 10 power supplies that output power pulses where the lights on the engines just flicker/pulse and engines dont move. It makes me wonder if the issues you are encountering overall is a defective power supply as that power supply has plenty of power to run an engine or two. (unless you have really bad slider track joiners that are causing power continuity issues between each section of track.). I'm really thinking that PS has an issue tho.
  17. You can add fluid in either of the openings at the stack. It does not drop straight into fan impeller area, that is a third hole you dont have direct access to. You are dropping fluid direct into the smoke unit itself, so the smoke unit is right there. To gain access to the smoke unit and to really have any kind of access to the marker lights requires you remove the front and rear frames from the boiler then disassemble the boiler (boiler has a top and bottom halves)
  18. Sure thing! See this link for Aristo product database: http://www.rayman4449.com/Aristocraft Database/index.html Direct link: https://web.archive.org/web/20160325171314/http://aristodatabase.x10host.com/?series=22200 Here are all the parts diagrams I have for Aristocraft, I dont see the RS-3 listed: http://www.rayman4449.com/Aristocraft_Parts-Diagrams.htm
  19. https://hrtrains.com/ in Florida used to be a place you could reliably get Stainless steel G scale track. I think they still have it. Overall it is getting harder to find. There may be options like the nickel plated brass track but I have no experience with it.
  20. Hi there and welcome You have encountered what I suspect is the black carbon dust that I discovered is created when running track power trains on brass track. For my outdoor layout I run all Stainless steel track (with stainless steel Splitjaw direct rail clamps at all joints) and had run hundreds of hours without needing to clean track or having noticeable buildup on the wheels. Fast-forward to a trainshow I and another person setup in Georgia where I deployed large amounts of brass track and after 1 day of running I started noticing that at track joints where there were gaps between the rails I found piles of black carbon dust. (The buildup was happening because I had little scotchbright pads on one truck per train to clean the top of the rail just for good measure and the pads were catching the carbon and dropping it off in the cracks). After 2 full days of running, bring the trains home and run my first passenger train and all my passenger car lights were flickering. Take the first car off and all the wheels had black buildup on them that I had to clean off. Had to clean all the passenger car wheels. Had never seen that in all the years of running stainless. I have no idea how or why you get carbon dust when running brass rail but it is a thing. It may very well be what you indicated, oxidation (possibly from tiny sparks that you cant see). From what I know so far there is nothing you can do to eliminate it except for go with stainless steel track. Raymond
  21. That is interesting, thank you for the heads-up!
 
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