Maciek

It just begs to do something like this in 1 gauge:https://images.app.goo.gl/kahfdw2VcJpukbNE9

All 10 wheels done and awaiting quartering. I will also have to do touch up with red, since overspray from white got on the red part of the wheels.

Today working on pressing all wheels in the tires and painting the tires, just like they would be painted during service. during service in Poland BR52 was classified as Ty2. Also contrary to painting style in Germany-black with red runing gear, polish machines received white trim, sometimes with a lot of decorative accents.

All 10 wheels + tires done and waiting to be pressed in the tires. One of the main power wheels was so tight inside the tire, that i cracked it while trying to beat it out. A spare copy had to be fixed up and smoothed out as a replacement. Now i have to build new quartering tool, since the old one was set up for 1/4" axle. The epoxy turned to be good idea, it seems to be hard as rock. While inserting spacers and waiting for epoxy to dry, i've also cut 5 new 3/16" axles. They're visible next to the sanding block.

I'll do that after the spacers are dry. My biggest issue when first assembling the drivers was some of them wobbling. Probably caused by original master having crooked opening and all subsequent copies having the same defect. This time i've took a little more time to epoxy the spacers as straight as possible.

More time spent on the tires yesterday and we have all 10. The first tire on top has just been pulled out of sodering tool and not yet smoothed out. I have also started to fit spacers inside axle openings in preparation for smaller axles. Had some automotive epoxy laying around, so i've decided to use that instead of glue.

Nice job on the Superliners. Have you thought about the original models built for Santa Fe? Being in California for a few months in 1994 it was still possible to see them intermixed with the newer ones.

Thanks, this is the very method i've used for shaping the drive shaft for the locomotive. I'm thinking of taking a large bolt and matching nut, maybe adding another piece of metal to hold the tires. Chuck the bolt (with the the head cut off), then use the nut to tighten everything together and polish evenly the tires, or wheel and tire combination. I've read about something like that in an old hobby magazine. Those old issues of model railoader from 40s and 50s deffinitely come in handy, that generation had some skills.

Thank you. I wish i've had a lathe, but having only drill press and grinder really makes one think. Two more tires done today with one still in the tool waiting to be smoothed out. I was able to purchase styrene pipe today for filing up the space for thinner axles. Also cut first axle from 3/16 piano wire just to see what it would look like on the wheel centers: I will be quite a job getting everything tight together.

A little more work today and 3 pairs of shoes done for the wheels. Its starting to get smoother now after more practise and the tires look better after each sodering. I will have to requarter the drive wheels, since i've decided to cut new axles from thinner rod. With hobby shops closed now, will need to come up with a way to make new spacers between wheel center and the axle.

Very little time available, but one more pair of shoes done yesterday. Even with the aluminium jig i still have to carefully cut and prepare the pieces. after triming the edge of wheel center, it goes into the tire with counterweight flush with the tire. Just 3 pairs of shoes to go.

Since i did not want to spend well over $100 for gear box from Great Britain, i chose to make it my self. That was also a learning process. Locomotive has two of them, one by the motor to step down the power from firebox level. The motor i got did not fit inside main frame. Third picture is just when i put it together. Gears are actually from RC car section, problem is the noise. A friend has recomended using different materials for one gear-plastic, or teflon. The other gear box was actually easier. It's butchered up from Bachmann trolley chasis. Drive shaft also had to be custom made. It is a brass rod which i drilled through and then placed in a drill press and shaped with a file, same goes for noched cups for the shaft. I have no clue how high end models like KISS or KM have their drive mechanisms done, but i wanted to make sure mine is invisible as much as possible.

Very nice work. I'm glad more modelers are getting into true 1 gauge. Planning to do windows in model coaches deffinitely takes a lot of patience. I like the choice of III phase for the stripes.

Thank you for the warm reception gentlemen. This certainly is a difficult project and sometimes i have to take a break from it. I have started with the wheels first, as the whole thing depended on that. Purchasing wheel sets from Märklin was out of question do to price. Getting the tires machined was also expensie, so i've decided on the beginning to use Lowes, Home Depot and what ever could be available at local hobby shops and train shows. Wheel tires are made out of copper pipe 1 3/4"-almost exact needed size. After cutting off 6mm rings stripped 14 gauge wire provided the flange. Wheel centers were poured allumilite from a master which i've made out of styrene. Unfortunatelly i did not make provision for shrinkage of allumilite and had to glue extra styrene strips to wheel centers to press them in the tires. This made the process more difficult and wheel centers do not sit that tight in the tires. this is the original master sprayed with primer to see any imperfections. main driving wheel center. original make wheels where there is no outside flange. After thinking about it i've decided to make the wheels more realistic by sodering in an outside flange. This would also help retain extra sryrene strip when pressing in the centers. To make the sodering process easier a trip to Lowes was necessary and from 3mm alluminium strip i've made this handy tool: lastly new improved wheel tire on the wheel center. I will have to experiment with electric application of nickel to make the tires more presentable. Axles are 1/4" steel rod which is a british standard, but since i will be replacing the tires, i might use smaller diameter axle, makes it easier to find gears at train shows.

Hi all. Getting prompted by another member of this forum i've decided to join in. Being born and raised in Poland i have witnessed steam, diesel and electric traction, even under the same roof of a roundhouse. For me personally nothing left as much impression as shaking ground under my feet, as a steam powered train coming by the platform to take me away on a trip. My personal favorites are the former war locomotives BR52, originally built in thousands by Germans for the eastern front. My experience in modeling was mainly in H0 gauge. I have modified and scratch built several locomotives in that scale, mostly american electric locomotives of Conrail (my other interest). From The USA it's the electric locomotives that i find most fascinating. Seing speeding AEM7 with Amfleet coaches under triangular catenary of NH in 1986 left another impression in my mind. My first 1 gauge project is a former BR52 modified for polish state railroad PKP, just like the ones i saw in my home town. This project is going for several years now as it's tough to balance family, house and work at the same time, enjoy: