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  1. Keep an eye on the Trainz G web site... https://www.trainz.com/collections/g-scale-model-trains?pf_t_model_trains=Scale_G+Scale&pf_t_type=Type_Diesel+Loco&pf_t_inventory_type=Inventory+Type_Exclusive+Preview+Items
  2. Sean, You may be onto something there as that truck "rocks" when assembled. Like one wheel is sitting higher than the rest which is almost impossible when you think about it. Unless the truck case is deformed or that "bolster" piece you speak of is bad. I'll dig into that problem this evening. Well you're correct as when swap bolsters around from truck to truck the rocking follows. So just ordered a replacement pair from Charles Ro!
  3. You're starting to bring it to life! Looking good with the added details.
  4. Starting another conversion this time a USA Trains Alco S4 switcher to full blown MTH ProtoSounds 3 that will include smoke and operating ProtoCouplers. Here's the engine I'm using... Tore down the motor truck for flywheeling. I'll tear down the other truck to service it. Oil motor and clean out old grease and repack with new grease. I seen this and it's kinda odd as one axle bushing in sideframes is wore out. Lower frame right side. The others are like new. Closeup of bad bushing... Wheels, gears and sliders show very minimal wear. Even the axle wire wipers aren't grooved and they're the first things to wear out. After removing bushing seen it's worn clear thru. Luckily I have extras that I removed from various projects over the years. I checked McMaster-Carr and they didn't really have anything that was a direct replacement. Bad thing is the original bushings are "beaded" or rolled over like a rivet on mounting block backside. Removing them destroys the flared over bead and that's what retains the bushing. What I did was try and "stake" the bore with a small center punch made out of an awl. That will "raise" the diameter a bit sort of like knurling a shaft and help retain the bushing. I also cleaned bore and bushing then applied Gorilla super glue gel in the blue cap bottle then press bushing in...it will be fine. Here can sort of see how I staked the bore in 4 spots approx. every 90 deg. We used to do the same thing when repairing heavy equipment to keep bearings or bushings from rotating in the bores. Only thing is tools were bigger and used Loctite bearing retainer. My favorite was Quick Metal 660. You could take a big say 12" diameter ball bearing that would slide in it's bore, apply 660 to it, reassemble and after a few hours those babies were tight. Would take a 20 ton hydraulic puller to remove same bearing. Different view... All assembled and ready for service! Should note why I think that bushing prematurely work out..well lack of lubrication for one duh. What I remember is when these S4's came out, USA Trains/ Charles Ro noticed that most all the axle gears were split and held up shipping until replacement axle assemblies were manufactured with a revised axle knurl or different gear bore whatever. Then they swapped out all axles before shipping so maybe this one axle end and bushing was put together dry?? Moral...keep your axles and gears lubed up. Also dab some grease or oil on the bolster tops of everything as I've seen those areas be about worn out on some engines and cars.
  5. Sean...Lol...I did once read on a real trains forum where retired railroaders posted that a caboose was the worse place to be in when train is moving. Even the later cushioned underframe cabooses would toss you from one end to another when train slack ran in or out while underway.
  6. Jerry, That guy in Canada makes replacement RS3 handrail stanchions for like $20 per loco. That and some brass wire would make replacements pretty cheap....And give you another project!
  7. Yves, Yes I was just reading where an O Gauge manufacturer from the San Francisco area posted that shipping containers for him have doubled in price. Something like $6,000.00 to ship a container these days. And the Oakland docks are way behind as ships are anchored off shore awaiting to be off loaded though I imagine Ro's containers are delivered somewhere on the East Coast?
  8. A month ago I was on the phone with USA Trains inquiring about some rare parts and I asked about the FEF delivery. I was told that they're all made boxed up ready to ship and they were looking for a shipping container...but the Chinese New Year was fast approaching so that would "slow" things down even more...for what its worth. Suppose next will be there's a big backlog of ships unloading at the docks??
  9. I've been thinking about building a indoor yard for some rolling stock. I like using the #6 switches but they're getting tougher to find and climbing up in price. The USA #6 is now $144.95 + $9 shipping from Ro. I have nothing at all against ordering from Charles Ro Supply as I do so regularly. Dealers may be a few $$$ cheaper but way I look at it is Ro can use any extra $$$ as they keep new USA Trains coming for us. So I decided to order a LGB 18150 R5 switch from Reindeer Pass as the price of $109.89 + shipping was appealing. True it's a manual switch and my indoor layout is elevated so it'll work out just fine. I searched various forums and You Tube for the R5 info and reviews but there isn't much. Basically I wanted to know how they compare to a #6 design. Technically the LGB R5 designation translates into say like a 15.5' diameter curve on diverging or 7.5' radius. They showed radius being centerline and diameter being the outside rail or something. That's cool because I always thought that a #6 was a 16' diameter switch...Maybe I'm wrong? Here's a few pics of the LGB R5. Nice as I'm impressed! Closeup of frog..I do like the plastic design maybe Delrin? Stainless contacts where wheel flanges ride to conduct electric is a great idea. Dead frog spot is tiny. Underside showing power routing/ jumping with heavy brass rods spot welded along with use of big beefy stainless tie retaining screws looks excellent! Here it is lying upside down ontop a Aristo #6. There's the main difference. And now I remember from my O Gauge days and using Ross Switches. A number switch has diverging rails that are straight whereas a radius switch has a diverging rail that remain curved. Big deal as I can deal with that. Here's comparing the actual curved part of the diverging rail. This is comparing outer rail radius. That radius between a #6 and LGB R5 is just about exactly the same. In closing I'd say the 2 switches are basically the same thing. Be interesting to see how my USA Big Boy negotiates a R5...but alas it's all packed away as believe it or not I plan on packing everything up and moving west in a few months.
  10. Thanks Nick! About the flywheel stripes...Yes and no. Correct the reader runs the sounds, rev up and downs, stopping etc. And it's tied into the smoke unit so more rpm's equals more smoke and increased voltage to heaters. It really comes into play in a steam engine for in sync smoke with chugs. Oh and stripes control engine speed so when remote shows say 10 smph it's moving an actual 1:32 or 1:29 scale miles per hour. It doesn't need to be spot on perfect unless running a bunch of different engines in a lashup.
  11. Well I've been model railroading for some 60 years now and who in their right mind pays MSRP...for anything? Just about everybody in large scale knows that the USA Trains "street" prices are Charles Ro Supply...after all they own USA Trains. Let's see...Go to RLD Hobbies and check prices...hmm...$104.89...I just saved another $5 compared to Charles Ro price. https://www.rldhobbies.com/usa-r14014.aspx Reindeer Pass...Same as RLD...$104.89 http://www.reindeerpass.com/USA-Trains-3-Bay-Coal-Hopper-CNW-Box-Car-Red.aspx Seems rather convenient that you picked the two highest prices found to use as your benchmark. That says a lot to me and others about your selling ethics so don't blame me and others here for "disparaging" you. Oh and BTW Rev...The terms of use for this selling forum is prices must be listed or post will be deleted. Reason for this is to avoid confrontations such as this. http://www.gscaletrainforum.com/index.php?/topic/1424-read-first-before-posting/
  12. Quick video... Here's a real one.

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