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Kevin Strong

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  1. Chuck, was that perhaps a new formulation with the new owners? I've used Scalecoat II both spray and out of the bottle with great results. (Their "GN Green" is spot on for the green the East Broad Top uses on their coaches.) I've used TruColor as well, and really didn't notice any difference between the two in terms of how they covered or dried. I didn't know Scalecoat was in danger of going away, but I'm glad to see them continue. I've still got more passenger cars that are going to need paint... Later, K
  2. Free locos for the attendees??? I'm in!!!!!! In all seriousness, we touched on some of this with the discussion of MTH being among the prominent no-shows. I agree--it would make sense certainly for the big model manufacturers to be there displaying, but they're the ones looking at the books, so they've apparently got their reasons. Don't know that it's a choice I would make, especially since you can write off the cost of the trip, but it's not me making the decisions. I'll just scratch my head and say "missed opportunity." Bridgewerks (and add Train-Li to that list) do strike me as a bit curious not to see them, but the rest don't surprise me. Dealers pick and choose the shows they go to. The on-line forums (particularly free ones) gain nothing from being there. I'd love to see QSI display. I'd love to see QSI answer their phones and respond to e-mails regarding their product first. But then there are no other DCC vendors on the list, either (nor have they traditionally displayed in the past), so it's nothing unusual. Here again, though, I have to think that large scale is an emerging market for DCC, and the manufacturers who show up with their products could generate a whole lot of excitement for them and have a definite leg up on those manufacturers who do not. The decoders are out there and being used by folks. Later, K
  3. As of 4-05-15, MTH is not displaying at the NGRC. I can't speak to how MTH decides which shows it does and does not attend. I can say that I've seen them at the Denver TCA show for the past few years, and in looking at their displays, you'd never know they did 1:32. Read into that what you will. I tend to think that if you've got product to sell, you at least take it to the shows you're going to--especially when you're set up within eyesight of LGB, Bachmann, and Piko's displays. Like Jerry (and probably all here), I'd love to see MTH succeed with 1:32. I think with Aristo's stuff in limbo, MTH could nose into that market fairly easily--especially with their DCS v.3 now being DCC-compatible. The ball's in their court. Later, K
  4. Chuck, that looks to be some pretty serious axle wear on that lower one as well. How many hours did he have on that thing? Later, K
  5. I'm in search of a USA Trains NW-2 for a kitbashing project. Cow or calf, doesn't matter. If you've got one sitting derelict, let me know. Later, K
  6. I can't say I've shopped for them recently to know of a specific store. I do see them at train shows on the odd occasion, and shops that do repairs may have some in stock or might have a butchered loco lying around for parts. I frequently see Aristo locos at train shows, and ebay will have listings for parts locos that go pretty inexpensively. $200 for a mikado frame gets me 4 replacement gearboxes. Aristo's gone, sure. But that doesn't mean you can't get parts. You might have to be patient, but you can get the parts. If you're in the market for one, call around or post on the various forums' "for sale" threads that you're looking for one. If nothing else, it will demonstrate that there may be a need that someone with a 3D printer might be able to meet. Later, K
  7. There's not (yet) the demand. Aristo parts can still be found from various sources, to say nothing of butchering basket-case 2nd-hand locos as needed. When that supply dries up, I think that's when you'll see things tick up a bit from enterprising folks with 3D printers. The other consideration is that so long as Aristo exists in one form or another with the capacity to produce parts, they also have the capacity to defend their patent on their drive. You may find someone making replacement gears, but copying their motor block is a little shadier. Later, K
  8. Long-term care is always a consideration, but it shouldn't keep one from buying a locomotive they want. Consider the vast majority of live steam locomotives--very small production runs with few (if any) spare parts. Even with proper care and feeding, the bearings and crank pins are eventually going to wear. When that happens, there's nowhere to turn, except your lathe (if you have one). Our electric mice are really no different. Gears are going to fail. But even if the company is long out of business, if there's a demand, there's bound to be a supply. When you factor in the explosion of 3D printing technology, we'll be able to print gears on our desktops as we need them. It's not going to take much for someone to scan in or draw an Aristo replacement gear. We're already seeing folks make Aristo and other replacement parts for things like handrail stanchions, etc. I think we'll find it a lot easier to keep our electric mice running far into the future than some of our fire-breathing dragons. Later, K
  9. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about the gears on the Aristo mallet. There's not much talk on the forums with regard to gear problems with the Aristo stuff. (Other issues, perhaps.) All the axles have gears, so if one fails, just bypass it. You've got three other gears on each powered chassis, and the siderods will transfer power to the "ungeared" axle, so you've still got power to all 4 axles. That, and Aristo's gearbox is modular; used in a number of locos. It shouldn't be too difficult to locate spares in the off chance one dies completely. That, and even with other manufactures' locos, who's to say they'll be around in 5, 10, 15 years to get parts? Heck, folks have trouble getting parts from manufacturers who are actively in business! As for other suggestions--if you're looking for big standard gauge power, you've pretty much exhausted it with the Aristo mallet, MTH Triples, and the challengers and big boys from various manufacturers. Aster makes an Allegheny, if you've got a spare $15K+ lying around. Later, K
  10. No, that's 3/32" by 5/16" I think. (Close to a scale rough-cut 2 x 6, whatever that works out to in 1:20.3 to the nearest size I can get at the hobby shop.) Later, K
  11. Not balsa, but Midwest Products sells sheets of basswood that are scribed. The thickest I've seen them is 1/16", which might be too thin for prototypical flat car decking, but if it's just the look you're going after, it will work. Most folks just use appropriately-scaled sticks, and glue them down. Coffee stir sticks are a popular low-cost (free?) option. So are popsicle sticks. It sounds tedious laying a bunch of planks across a flat car, but it actually goes very quickly. Later, K
  12. With this loco and the trains you want to pull, I'd not go any greater than 4%. That's "typically" the maximum grade recommended for the garden. If you're into longer trains, you'd want to go less than that. Grade is simply rise over run, so a 4% grade is a 4" change in elevation over 100" (roughly 8'). Later, K
  13. Which 2-8-0? Bachmann made two versions. The early version that I think most folks are talking about is the "outside frame" version, also called the "Connie" in large scale circles. Here's mine (albeit slightly modified): I've seen them go anywhere from $250 - $500 depending on the demand at the time. They've been out of production for at least 10 years, but you can still find new-in-box versions that have been sitting idle. As was mentioned, the "weak link" in this loco is the main drive gear on the axle. It's prone to cracking. Bachmann offers a brass replacement gear and axle combination for $10, which is a worthwhile investment. You needn't replace the axle until the gear breaks, but know that there's a high likelihood that the gear will break and this way you have a good replacement ready to go. Mine is a workhorse, and runs very smoothly. The newer 2-8-0 came out around 2 years ago, and is a model of a D&RGW C-19, an "inside frame" 2-8-0. Here's a photo of mine (again, with minor cosmetic changes): This one goes for $750 - $900. It's easily in the top 10% of locomotives on the market. Good, strong motor and gears (all metal gearbox), and detailed to the hilt. You'll not go wrong with either one. Later, K
  14. Mark, wire two 12 volt bulbs in series. Put the second one in the cab or in the firebox. Glad to hear your other locos are running well (especially the 2-8-0s.) Later, K
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