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Screwy Nick

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  1. As promised the relays/micro switches arrived yesterday. While the contact positions and differental travel are correct, as you can see (from the end one) the tabs are much too long Could modify the rods that go to the connections on the frog and rails, or replace with insulated wire, but chose to drill and cut the tabs. Extremely frustrating and costly, broke 2 drill bits, small piece of paper towel and masking tape to stop the bleeding. Also, the holes for the mounting screws are much too small, don't know if they can be enlarged without breaching the interior wall. Bench testing with ohm meter shows they function as orignal equipment. Will apply a smear of conductive grease to my rail clamps and joiners and re-install it. Need more research to find a better fit but these will do for now. Will be playing trains most of today.
  2. I successfully used the Resistance Soldering unit to repair the brake rigging on my G5. As can be seen from the pics, brake and line not only came off the loco, but bent. In attempt to straighten, it of course broke. Now I have 3 pieces that need to be soldered for this repair to be successful. I used the soldering pad which has the constitution of heavy styrofoam. I pressed the parts into it to hold them in line, then applied the acid flux and silver solder. The final connection was made when the parts were afixed to the truck. It does need to be cleaned up and painted, but am happy with the results.
  3. Joe, thank you for searching and finding the article. I was not aware of all the problems other were having with them, I've never even had a burp from mine. At least Aristocraft thought ahead and put that little poly fuse device in the circuit JIC.
  4. I'm like a kid with a new toy, that Macro feature shows things I can't see with my naked eye. The interior is pristine. The contacts plainly seen are still shiny, no sign of arcing. Appears it wore out mechanically, not enough throw left to make contact.
  5. Chuck, that 'mung' rinsed right off with hot water so can re-use them. The alternative to the relays is certainly worth looking into. Would be easy to make the wire connections as they are held under screws, just extend from under the turnout. Will look into that while waiting for the relays incase they are the incorrect size or make/break sequence. THANK YOU.
  6. Chuck, I am familiar with his crane through pics and others that have assembled them, a true craftsman, I respect his work.
  7. Soaking the rail clamps in Acetone to loosen the old stain, looks like something out of a Sci Fi movie. Found a setting on the camera MACRO, get some real close up's with it. Close up on the relay that controls the frog. Can see the melting points which will make taking it apart easier to see exactly what failed, contact? moving parts? Tested the other 3 #6's and all work fine AT THIS TIME. Ordered enough relays to replace them when the time comes.
  8. Joe, do you still have those switches? And what was the reason for removing them? OR can you direct me to where I can see those posts? You got my curiosity cooking.
  9. Received the grounding vice. It was a big help, not only holding the item securely, but was also able to get an accurate 90' angle on the step to the side. AND the adjustable table made making the distance between steps as simple as turning a screw. Still on the bottom of the learning curve, but encouraged to continue. No buyers remorse here, and Sean, fingers have healed.
  10. Not picky, misunderstood words can lead to wrong parts, at least. Working in electronics as my craft never heard of on/on but now that you explain what you meant, ON in one direction, throw switch and ON in the other direction. YES. With relays, which this really is, NO (Normally Open when relay is at rest, no current flow). when the switch is thrown it Closes, current flows. NC (Normally Closed when relay is at rest current flows), when the switch is thrown it becomes open, no current flow. It doesn't state in the description, but it has to be Break before Make other wise there would be momentary shorts and burn the contacts. Have had to chase circuits through banks of relays to find out why something isn't doing what it is supposed to do, designation on the schematic read wrong and could spend hours barking up the wrong bank. ANYWAY. Hope you have as much fun as I do with trains.
  11. Joe, didn't say on-off. The switch has 3 terminals Common/NC/NO. it has to open one side to close the other, would otherwise cause short. The micro switch bounces the frog power from one power rail to the other depending on the rail position. The turnouts don't need modification out of the box, mine worked fine 3 years on ground and 13 years elevated. Only after the contact wore out did it stop working. This is the first year with and issue, and only this one, the other 3 are still working just fine. The Docksider is a short frame loco so it would feel the non powered frog.
  12. Chuck, does someone manufacture them or are you going produce them yourself? Would look good being pulled by that beautiful loco you made.
  13. Been looking for a Tuscan Red paint that will be as close as possible to the USAT and Aristocraft cars I've had for years. Even the newer USAT Tuscan parts are more red than the older Tuscan. Seems there are many Tuscan Red's. FINALLY found what I am looking for. In case there are any other PRR fans looking for that color, Tru Color TCP276-2. PRR 1948 Pass. Car Tuscan. This stock number is for air brush use, I was told they also make brush-able paints.
  14. Joe, you said you run large locomotives, so you wouldn't need powered frogs. For shorter frame locomotives (the baby Shark) the #6 has long frogs, and without power it will stall. Also that little device under the straight rail that looks like a capacitor is really a breaker to protect the frog from shorts, gives a temporary open, and the frog is isolated from the rest of the rails. Made a functional schematic of the turnout and ordered what I believe will be the correct make/break design of the micro switch, will know for sure Wednesday.
  15. Joe, thank you for the tip. I do use and like rail clamps. I used them for power connections to the track every other joint. The only problem I had loosening them was the build up of stain in the Allen socket. Switch is the #6 which as a micro switch underneath to direct power to the frog depending on the switch position. The micro switch is what is now defective. Looking on line for replacements.

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