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Found 9 results

  1. This is something that I've been thinking about doing for years and that is converting the USA Trains streamliner passenger cars over to Kadee couplers. I've had all these cars apart over the years fixing interiors that come loose in shipping, adding people, upgrading lighting, repairing wiring and power switches etc. Always looked at upgrading couplers and though ugh! I like Kadee Couplers as nice looking with that feather touch coupling action and well the USAT style knuckle couplers are more of a slam bang affair...and my passengers deserve better! And the USAT stock couplers are mounted way too low for me. I started in converting my great aluminum fleet the other day and it turned out to be a rather simple affair! Here's stock coupler compared to a Kadee height gauge which isn't a "set in stone" standard as I use it as more of a reference. I use the oversized "G" couplers and not the small 1:32 couplers. The 1:32 are so small that they'll slide apart vertically when a long car goes thru a dip in the track. My test car will be this PRR RPO as it'll be repainted next Spring. Stock USA coupler install. Remove center screw and pop the cover off. I use 2 small jewelers screwdrivers to disengage cover at rear. If you use a bigger screwdriver it'll break the thin plastic where slot is. After cover removed then removing spring and coupler reveals coupler body to mount screws. Remove those screws and coupler body. I reassemble couplers then stow away in the cars box. What's left is the die-cast metal coupler mount. I'm sure this is the same design as what's used on the heavyweights. Remove the 4 mount screws and mount comes off leaving a very nice spot to mount Kadee's! I start with a piece of 1-1/2" wide x 1/8" thick aluminum flat stock that I buy at Menards. A 3' long piece is like $10. Sure it's the same that can be bought about anywhere like Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Farm & Fleet etc. as it's all provided by Hillman. I cut a piece 1-5/8"+ long with hacksaw then square up to size with bench sander. I then mark piece with a line 1/8" up from one end. If you rough the aluminum up first with say a 220 grit sanding block then a line drawn with a mechanical pencil will be a bit easier to see. Could use blue layout ink and scribe the line but then may as well use a milling machine to perfectly drill the holes but hey, this ain't rocket science. After drawing line then I use the coupler mounting bracket to locate mount screw holes. Align the back edge at the line you just drew and fix with clamp while drawing holes with mechanical pencil. I left out that I also drew a centerline for where the Kadee mounting holes will be. I forgot to snap a pic of that layout. I use #907 Kadee's on these cars as they're bigger and beefier where it counts. Others may use the #906's. I plan on this train being at least 12 cars long with a Express boxcar or two at frontend so it's be a heavy hard pulling train. In drill press, the 4 adapter to car body holes are drilled 1/8" and the 2 Kadee mount holes are drilled #33. Here had to notch out the 2 ribs to make room for the 4-40 screw heads that I use to mount coupler to adapter. All mounted. I used 4-40 machine screws to mount coupler to adapter plate. I had originally planned to thread the adapter for 4-40 screws but decided on thru-hole mounting using nuts. Gave adapter plates a quick shot of flat black paint as have plenty around here. I changed the 4 x 3mm diameter adapter plate mounting screws from like 6.6mm long to 8mm as I buy those by the 100 count in various lengths up to 16mm long. Black thread cutter/ thread rolling screws as they're VERY hand to have in stock. Opposite end Good shape when checked with height gauge Few closing thoughts. It actually took me longer to writeup this posting than to make those 2 adapter mounting plates. Material price maybe $2 per car esp. when buy the hardware by the 100's. None of the above is "set in stone" as I may re-mount couplers further "under" the car. If you wanted would be just as easy to use the stock USA couplers as they'd be raised and they will work with the G Kadee's. Would have to drill and tap the for the original USA coupler box flat top screws.
  2. Hello, I have acquired a large collection of LGB and USA Trains. Before I put them on eBay, I thought it would be best to try and sell them outright. More information and the inventory list is in the Craigslist ad below. I have detailed pictures of each item if you are interested. I will also entertain offers on the entire collection. https://albany.craigslist.org/clt/d/model-trains-scale-lgb-and/6235734788.html
  3. Wanted to create a post for reference on what the LGB/Piko R1, R2, R3, R5, R7 values actually translate to in ft/mm AND also bring awareness that what LGB calls R3 and R5 is DIFFERENT than Piko. This is important because MTH lists the minimum diameter curves their engines can take in terms of R2, R3, R5 etc based on the LGB meanings, not Piko. The bottom line is you should always do the actual measurement and rely on the actual ft/mm. Always remember that it is a good idea to run your engines on curves a little wider than that stated absolute minimum rating, regardless of who made the locomotive. This will help ensure you avoid problems such as binding when running. Track Curves - LGB: From LGB's web site https://www.lgb.com/fileadmin/media/lgb/produkte/produktinformationen/LGB_Gleissystem-Info.pdf - LGB website - https://www.lgb.com/products/product-information/overview-of-the-track-system/ Direct link: LGB_Curve_Calculations.pdf R1 = 600 mm (Radius) / 1200 mm (Diameter) R2 = 780 mm (Radius) / 1560 mm (Diameter) R3 = 1195 mm (Radius) / 2390 mm (Diameter) R5 = 2320 mm (Radius) / 4640 mm (Diameter) Translated into imperial: R1 = 23.6 inches (Radius) (1.97 ft) / 47.2" (Diameter) (3.93 ft) R2 = 30.7 inches (Radius) (2.56 ft) / 61.4" (Diameter) (5.12 ft) R3 = 47.05 inches (Radius) (3.92 ft) / 94.1" (Diameter) (7.84 ft) R5 = 91.35 inches (Radius) (7.61 ft) / 182.7" (Diameter) (15.23 ft) Track Curves - Piko: Piko website: https://www.piko-america.com/collections/g-scale-g-track (see R curve & MM values listed on each curve) R1 = 600 mm (Radius) / 1200 mm (Diameter) R2 = ??mm R3 = 920 mm (Radius) / 1840 mm (Diameter) R5 = 1240 mm (Radius) / 2480 mm (Diameter) R7 = 1560 mm (Radius) / 3120 mm (Diameter) Translated into imperial: R1 = 23.6 inches (Radius) (1.97 ft) / 47.2 inches (Diameter) (3.93 ft) R2 = ?? R3 = 36.22 inches (Radius) (3.02 ft) / 72.44 inches (Diameter) (6.04 ft) R5 = 48.82 inches (Radius) (4.07 ft) / 97.64 inches (Diameter) (8.14 ft) R7 = 61.42 inches (Radius) (5.12 ft) / 122.84 inches (Diameter) (10.24 ft)
  4. I am searching for an LGB 25196 Durango & Silverton Locomotive.
  5. Looking for any LGB Disney, Peanuts and Looney Tunes items. If you have any please let me know what you have and asking price, thanks!
  6. Included are one powered locomotive, one non-powered locomotive, and a passenger car. Features for the locomotive include a powerful Bühler motor, plastic construction, a pantograph that raises and lowers, and metal wheels. The passenger car and features plastic construction, a plastic truck, and plastic wheels and axles. The passenger car measures approximately 26 inches in length. The original box and transformer is included.Train is in near new condition and has been run only a handful of times. LGB doesn't make this set anymore, so now is your chance to get ahold of a pristine example of a collectible set! Selling for $289 if it is picked up at my location. I also have some additional LGB rolling stock on hand so please inquire if you would be interested with that as well. Thanks for looking!
  7. Hi all - new to these forums. I have a 1990's vintage LGB Olomana in VG condition, and I'd like to keep it running. It is obviously one of the old style Olomanas, with the rear axle driven and a drive belt connecting to the front axle. I got this engine used, and I am pretty sure this engine was run *a lot* on a Christmas loop in a hobby shop. The drivers on one side have the plating worn off, and the underlying brass is showing. As a result, the wheel surfaces get dirty quickly, and require cleaning much more often than I like. Train Li and perhaps a few others offer replacement wheel sets for the LGB Chloe engine, which I believe is the same basic chassis and wheelsets (am I wrong?). If so, can these bet swapped out for the old ones? I note that the wheelsets offered by Train Li have identical gears on the axles, so not sure if the single geared axle and belt drive would work on these new axles? https://www.trainli.com/products/detail/282/5933 Thanks for any advice or knowledge! - Bruce
  8. Gaugemaster will be hosting its fourth G Scale show located at the Engine Shed next to Ford railway station. The event will have layouts and dioramas on display showing products from our garden railway suppliers including Piko, LGB, Preiser and Pola. Free parking is available and expert help is on hand throughout the day. The show will be on Saturday 16th July at our HQ located just outside Arundel in West Sussex. http://www.gaugemaster.com/howto.html
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