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Found 3 results

  1. There is a group that has been established to build a full scale replica of the PRR T1 Duplex drive engine. http://prrt1steamlocomotivetrust.org/
  2. I am relatively new to large scale model railroading, changing scale about three years ago from a 45+ year affiliation with HO. While reading the various online groups, my attention was grabbed by a posting on this forum showing a 3D printed Pennsylvania RR N8 Cabin car in 1/29th scale. Since I model Penn Central, this was on my list of things to do...eventually. I spoke with the owner of the kit, Paul Hofecker, (AKA: professorburnout) and about a week later, I had the kit in hand. After a few rounds of Q & A between us about this model, Paul asked if I would be interested in posting a construction article to this forum. Paul asked for my feedback during the build to help improve the model. He has already integrated a number of my suggestions, and will likely add more. So, let's start! I am no stranger to 3D printed objects, having used a number of third party builders to fabricate parts I have designed. Paul's model is printed using the FFF method on a Craftbot printer. FFF is 3D printing shorthand for Fused Filament Fabrication. Very simply explained, FFF is a 3D printing process that makes objects by melting a filament of plastic and precisely tracing out the profile of an object one layer at a time. Paul's N8 kit is fabricated using a plastic called Polylactic Acid, commonly referred to as PLA. PLA is a “green” plastic derived from plant resources, and has become one of the most widely used materials in the 3D printing world. It is a strong, rigid material that provides a good basis for making models. It can be cut, filed and sanded like styrene, but will require the use of CA cement or epoxy to join parts. During the process of this build, I will likely make some changes and modifications to this kit. I operate my railroad outside, and have set some standards for wheels and couplers. I will add metal wheels and Kadee 906 couplers in this project. I will show the parts Paul has included in the kit, but will also show the changes needed to use the modifications. As stated above, some of my construction suggestions have been passed back to Paul. One of the exciting benefits of 3D printing is that a design isn't set in stone like injection molded models. After the tooling is complete on an injection molded model, it can require hundreds or even thousands of dollars to revise the tooling. Changes to a 3D printed model are handled in the design tools and can be incorporated into the next time the model is printed. Paul's N8 kit is fairly complete, including all the parts necessary to build a fully functioning car. All of the plastic parts in this kit are 3D printed with the exception of the wheel spacer tubes. There are a few metal parts such as the axles and fasteners. The kit includes a pair of trucks and a pair of dummy couplers. Here is a photo of the kit's main parts. The body is printed in two halves. This is typically done for a number of reasons; mainly to fit within the build envelope of the 3D printer being used but also to cut down the lost time in the event of a print failure. In this image supplied by Paul, the body is printed in two different colors. The body halves in my kit are both red. The body halves are joined with a lap joint (the blue part between the body haves) and floor section (the white part in the foreground) . The cupola and body ends are separate parts as well. Smaller parts include the end ladder/collision posts, Corner steps and roof walks. This car is currently designed around Paul's 3D printed dummy coupler design, but can be modified to accept other body mounted or truck mounted couplers. The 3D parts are generally almost ready to assemble. Some cleaning of small printing artifacts will likely be needed in areas where tolerances are tight. When these parts are printed, the first few layers in contact with the build surface of the 3D printer tends to be a bit larger than the rest of the print as it moves away from that surface. This is referred to as the "elephant's foot” effect. A few swipes with a file are all that is required to remove this material.. After that, the parts fit well. This next image shows the parts in one of the two truck kits. Each truck is composed of a pair of side frames, a bolster, two spring inserts four ball bearings and two wheel/axle assemblies each composed of a metal axle, a vinyl spacer tube and two 3D printed wheels. In my next post, I will start the build process by assembling the trucks. If you are interested in one of these cars, please contact Paul (professorburnout) on this forum via private message. The kits are $80 plus postage. Gene
  3. Looking for an attractive, detailed, pre-war, G Scale PRR K4 for static display. Engine doesn't need to be working.
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