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USA Trains Hudson Repair/Modification/Maintenance Questions


Razor_Antilles
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Hello all,

 

I recently picked up a USAT Hudson that's old enough to have been made before they all came with sound by default, so it lacks the Phoenix system, but I'm not worried about that at the moment. The locomotive has been someone's display model for years, and in addition to needing additional cleaning, I know for a fact it needs some lubrication beyond the visible moving parts/axles. So, I would greatly appreciate some advice on the following:

1.) Proper lubrication to eliminate squeaking: How do I get access to the motor/gears? I've taken off the bottom cover plate to lubricate the insides of the axles in case there was some additional rub there, but I've only partially cleared up the squeak, and I'd prefer to not rip the bottom of the engine apart without good advice, first. Which lubricant should I use? I have some Labelle medium weight oil that I use on my diesels/rolling stock, but additional recommendations are welcome. Further note: the squeak is both a rhythmic sound when the drivers reach a certain point during forward/rear motion, in addition to a constant sound, which leads me to believe it's a dry gear somewhere nearer the motor than the axles.

2.) Coal load replacement/reloading: there are some chunks missing from the USAT load, and I haven't yet searched extensively to see what options there are. Would anyone have any recommendations on either authentic coal load filler or a really high quality fake substitute?

3.) Front/rear headlight replacement: I really don't like how dim the incandescent bulbs are on the locomotive, and I intend to replace them with warm white 3mm LEDs. Based on previous experience replacing the headlights on an Aristocraft Dash 9, I'm projecting that I'll need 200-330ohm 1/2 watt resistors to achieve desired luminence (as in, not as bright as my Dash 9, but pretty bright). I would appreciate any additional thoughts on this also: for reference, my power supplies are a USA Trains Train Power 10, and a Chicago Model International SuperBlue 165 (the predecessor to the Train Power 10). I haven't decided yet if I'm going to replace the marker lights with LEDs, because I like their present luminence. Additionally, while I know the Dash 9 draws an average of 6 volts without a consist, anyone's voltage numbers with the locomotive under load would likewise be appreciated so I can acquire the appropriate resistors.

Thank you in advance for any tips, tricks, and advice!

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First off Hi :)

 

You have to split the boiler from the chassis...very easy just 3 screws underneath..2 in the cab area and one centered under the smoke box. Easiest to remove front and rear trucks first.

 

After that's off you can get to the motor and separate it from the gearbox. If I remember right removing the gearbox itself means removing the driver that it's mounted to.

 

Oil the motor armature shaft bushings...very important.

 

Driver axles ride on ball bearings.

 

After boiler is removed you can see the lighting constant voltage boards...seems to me all lights are fed either 5 or 6 volts regardless of track power.

 

Coal...hmm...Ro probably has more coal loads...Just a thought. 

 

I think I know you??!! Didn't I purchase the AML UP Bethgon from you last month??!! 

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Was just thinking that I had a squeaking problem with one of my Hudson's and ended up being the brushes rubbing on backside of drivers...Just a thought.

 

That USA Hudson is the best! 

 

Mike @ USA Trains parts is the best guy but now he only work Tues, Wed & Thursday...:( 

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18 hours ago, Razor_Antilles said:

Hello all,

 

I recently picked up a USAT Hudson that's old enough to have been made before they all came with sound by default, so it lacks the Phoenix system, but I'm not worried about that at the moment. The locomotive has been someone's display model for years, and in addition to needing additional cleaning, I know for a fact it needs some lubrication beyond the visible moving parts/axles. So, I would greatly appreciate some advice on the following:

1.) Proper lubrication to eliminate squeaking: How do I get access to the motor/gears? I've taken off the bottom cover plate to lubricate the insides of the axles in case there was some additional rub there, but I've only partially cleared up the squeak, and I'd prefer to not rip the bottom of the engine apart without good advice, first. Which lubricant should I use? I have some Labelle medium weight oil that I use on my diesels/rolling stock, but additional recommendations are welcome. Further note: the squeak is both a rhythmic sound when the drivers reach a certain point during forward/rear motion, in addition to a constant sound, which leads me to believe it's a dry gear somewhere nearer the motor than the axles.

2.) Coal load replacement/reloading: there are some chunks missing from the USAT load, and I haven't yet searched extensively to see what options there are. Would anyone have any recommendations on either authentic coal load filler or a really high quality fake substitute?

3.) Front/rear headlight replacement: I really don't like how dim the incandescent bulbs are on the locomotive, and I intend to replace them with warm white 3mm LEDs. Based on previous experience replacing the headlights on an Aristocraft Dash 9, I'm projecting that I'll need 200-330ohm 1/2 watt resistors to achieve desired luminence (as in, not as bright as my Dash 9, but pretty bright). I would appreciate any additional thoughts on this also: for reference, my power supplies are a USA Trains Train Power 10, and a Chicago Model International SuperBlue 165 (the predecessor to the Train Power 10). I haven't decided yet if I'm going to replace the marker lights with LEDs, because I like their present luminence. Additionally, while I know the Dash 9 draws an average of 6 volts without a consist, anyone's voltage numbers with the locomotive under load would likewise be appreciated so I can acquire the appropriate resistors.

Thank you in advance for any tips, tricks, and advice!

 

Hi Razor,

 

I don't have a Hudson, but the Big Boy is similar:

 

1. I just use a lightweight hobby oil on the rods and linkages. When I rebuilt it I also cleaned and greased the gearboxes.

 

2. Coal: I have almost 1000 lbs at home, to run my small 7-1/2" gauge steamer. I've started sifting it through a 1/2" mesh and I'm collecting the dust and small pieces for use with G-scale. I don't have much sifted yet, but you likely don't need much either... let me know and I'll send you some for the cost of shipping.

 

3. I usually use between 120 and 200 ohm 1/4 watt resisters (and 1/8 watt should be fine!). Look at your LED specs to be sure, but many are 20ma with about a 3.4v forward voltage. If you have 5 volts constant DC (and if not, maybe add a LM7805 voltage regulator?), then you can pick a resister for the brightness you want. You'd theoretically only need 80 ohms for this situation, but as you say you may not want full brightness.

 

 

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9 hours ago, Chuck said:

I think I know you??!! Didn't I purchase the AML UP Bethgon from you last month??!! 

 

Well how about that; small world!

 

3 hours ago, benshell said:

2. Coal: I have almost 1000 lbs at home, to run my small 7-1/2" gauge steamer. I've started sifting it through a 1/2" mesh and I'm collecting the dust and small pieces for use with G-scale. I don't have much sifted yet, but you likely don't need much either... let me know and I'll send you some for the cost of shipping.

 

 

That would be fantastic, thank you! I'll send you a private message about that so we can work out the details.

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Hi Razor:

 

I have a new USA Hudson and the tender has always squeaked.  When I first heard it I thought it was coming from the engine, but after listening more carefully it was definitely coming from the tender.   Could it be that you are hearing the squeak coming from the tender and not the engine? 

 

It is almost constant and is not rhythmic.  It doesn't bother me too much as it sounds just like real wheels that squeak on the rails of real trains.  Adds a little realism I think.  Even though the axles are well oiled they still squeak.  I think it is caused by the power pickups in the tender that rub against the axles.  

 

Ray, if you are reading this, have you heard this?

 

On your faux coal question, I use black aquarium gravel.  It is made from a lightweight stone like basalt and is painted black, but looks like real true to scale and shape real coal.

 

 

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Finally had a chance to work on my Hudson; i tried to separate the boiler, but I didn't find the right screws and I didn't want to get carried away, so I switch to Chuck's suggestion to lubricate the power pickups, and now the hudson positively whispers around the track; it's so quiet the loudest noise from loco or tender is the faint clicking of the drive rods. Thank you! I still plan to get in there and put some lubricant on the gearbox, but right now the black beast is quieter than my SD70.

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  • 6 months later...

This Letter is mostly for Ray:

 

A film crew from a local TV station filmed my railroad yesterday.  We decided to use the USA Trains Hudson that Ray modified for me last year.  He added Protosound 3, Protosmoke, and a better speaker.  The Hudson was a great choice.  Everybody present was amazed with its wonderful sound.  But they were especially impressed with the heavy realistic smoke it created.  Ray, your Hudson was the star of the show!    Here is a link to the clip: http://www.kvoa.com/clip/13427345/local-non-profit-builds-garden-railroads  Thanks again Ray.

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