rbrown7713 Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Here I go again. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 What else can I say? I'll be watching closely. Family problems have popped up and I stopped for a bit. It's always nice to see others going strong! I am glad you're following through on this project. I just got in 5 O scale 2 rail GGD passenger cars. They are in rough shape but doable. They join a long list of "To Do". So thank you so much for sharing your work once more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 Hope everything is taken care of and you can once again start on a new project. I will get as close to 1:32 as I can, that's all I can do. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Well, this project is starting out a little slow. I am winging it as I go, but several things that I will note, one, is that, by my measurements, some of the distances of the the LGB car are not to scale. I am getting my information by a drawing, with measurements, and scaling of a Walthers HO model. The measurements of the the drawing and the HO model are in agreement. Here is one example. The distance from the bottom of the windows to the bottom of the side is off. I will correct that as close as I can. I am supposed to remove .631 from the center of the side, but because of the fluting, I will only remove .587. The reason is that the fluting has to match for congruence. The piece of plywood with the curve drawn on it will be to keep the curvature of the sides proper. I will be using six of those to align the side curves in the form of a jig for gluing the parts of the sides. The only difficulty in cutting is because of the fluting. I have to cut on one side of the flute, in one case, and then on the other side of the flute, in the other case, to leave a space to meet the other flute for the proper spacing. I will try my best. The length of the model is very close to represent 85 feet, so I won't be reducing the length. There is an area on the top of the walls where it meets the roof, and where it fits like a long tab. I removed that area and was able to reduce the height by approximately 5/16ths of an inch. I am leaving the shape of the windows, as they are close enough for scale. As of now, I will be making new window frames with new glass, but that might change, depends on how lazy I get. I will let you know more about the width when I get to it. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 Here is an example of the before width and the after to bring it down to 10'6" scale width=3.937". Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 So wait..... you're apologizing in advance for something that is .044" off? You are da man! I, would not have even mentioned it!!!! (I'm happy just to be in the ballpark) The vents on my next build should be 1/16" down from the top. The top is 1/8" think? I will just have to fudge it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 Well .044" is only .012 over 1/32, so we both fudge. There is quite a bit more fudging in this model, but that is what is nice about kitbashing, unless you have the exact scale 1:32 model sitting right next to it, most people, not rivet counters, of course, just enjoy the looks of the model as it is. At least, that is my view, I am in this for fun and ease of building. One of the reasons that I have gotten away from building from scratch, such as machining a whole new pattern, which would be more scale, is in the speed of building. If I had chosen to start from scratch with the P42, I would have still been building for the next six months, including the 3 1/2 months it took to build. That is not to say I won't build from scratch again, but right now, I am having fun kitbashing to make the model a little closer to 1:32. I kinda like the challenge. I would really like to be rich enough to buy perfectly built, say, Finearts models, but I am not, and what fun would that be, as I am having fun doing this. So during the day, I am finally working on the outdoor layout, hand grading right now, and at night working on the Amfleet car. This time, I will make molds for the car because of the number that I will need for a proper consist, yet again, another challenge. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Why not bash some MTH cars? They are 1/32 already, or is there something about the LGB's that are better to start with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 He did bash the MTH cars Jerry. Remember he made them longer. The LGB represents a different model. I think that this is an important model to have in 1/32 with the Genesis. I hope MTH and Accucraft will release others in the future. To me, the LGB models are done very well. They are just too big to run near any of my equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 Yes I did and stretched them out, I think about 4.5 inches. I even made a mold for the 4.5 section both with fluting and smooth, so I can stretch either MTH coach out. The P42 should have the Amfleet cars to look right and someday I want to make some superliners, but that is a big job, nothing to kitbash there except Ralph Browns' superliners, but they are hard to find. I hear he made a 30 inch one, but I don't know if that is true. Some one else made 3 Superliner cars and boy did they look good. Well today it is going to rain, so I only worked outside a little while, so I am starting on the sides today and will post some pictures when I have something interesting to post. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 I thought I would share this with you. I have always liked the PRR T1 loco and I am investigating a Lionel 4-4-2 Atlantic and thinking about using the drivers times two and constructing a T1 loco. I don't know what size the driver wheels are, but the prototype wheels are 80 inches, so if they are anywhere near that 1:32 scale size, maybe it would work.. Since I posted this, I found out that the Lionel Atlantic drivers are 2.65 inches, close enough, and the Aristocraft Pacific drivers are, 2.5 inches. By my calculations, they should be about 2.5 inches. I would have to make a pattern of the shell, don't think that would be too hard and then use the drivers for power. Can't afford the brass models, so I would have to do something like that, just dreaming, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 This is all that I have done for today, a side and two ends, lost of sanding. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 I built this jig the shape of the sides to align the pieces of the side. Sorry, can't find the picture of the jig, but all it is, are 8 pieces of ply, shaped to the curvature of the back side of the side, so that when I glue the bottom of the side on, it is in the correct position. The side in the picture is after gluing. Now for the other side. Came out very good. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 OK, I found the picture of the jig. This is before the bottom part was glued. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 making that MTH car longer really makes it look great. It could be an Accucraft or similar. what trucks will you put under the Amfleet? will you mess with the Windows? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 my buddy "Rooster" on LSC made his own super liners. they are quite heavily built when you hold one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 It will be only 2 scale feet longer, so not enough for me to add the extra work. The windows will be out of scale, but I don't think they will look too bad, maybe better, again, I am trying to make this as painless as I can, since redoing the windows would be major work. This way, I can reproduce the windows in clear epoxy, I hope, since I can't buy more windows, I tried. I will probably shorten the trucks to 1:32 and maybe use some smaller wheels. Tell me all you know about the Rooster Superliners, boy, they are beautiful. Are they aluminum?, or what are they made of? Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 I hope this is OK to share? Dave's post would be easier to review. I did get to hold the car at York. http://largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/15593/building-and-bashing-amtrak-equipment He custom built a F40PH too. He will answer any questions and is super helpful. There are just a few guys there, that like to bash people. Most hate MTH because they fear smaller things! They run oversized equipment and that's OK? It's one of the main reasons, this forum is my favorite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 I couldn't find much on the Superliners, went through the whole thing, but realized that they really have a sense of humor like take a look at this Superliner in an LGB box and someone even said that LGB made a short run of these. I would like to know about the shiny surface of Rooster's work. Does he use foil, or are his model metal? Any one know? They sure look shiny. From the statements made, I think they were 1:29, not 1:32. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 As far as I know, he uses foil tape on some that I've seen. Some of the appliances under the cars, are very simple. They just have the look. On his F40PH, the detailing is fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 here's another http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/13562/1500-series-thrall-mail-material/view/page/1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 He uses the Nashua brand metal foil duct tape over the plastic. Like I've done on some of my cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 Thanks, I was just wondering because they are so shiny, I like shiny things. I would need some real good tutorials on how to apply the foil. I have never used it. Here is a better picture of the jig for side alignment. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Another great project! For shiny finishes I'd personally try the spray route...http://alclad2.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 I agree. Wow, what a shiny finish. That is what I want. With that foil, I would be afraid of getting wrinkles, with my feeble hands. Thanks Chuck for the heads up, I appreciate it. I like it. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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