rbrown7713 Posted May 24, 2017 Author Share Posted May 24, 2017 Thanks Jerry for the encouragement, I can always use that. When I first started, I thought it would be easier and then the further I got into it, I realized that my original idea didn't hold water. Yes, I am enjoying this and want it to look good, so I am trying a little harder than I bargained for in the beginning. I looked for three days for some blind rivets for the cross arm to piston rod because of the tight clearance and just found them today from a firm in New York, so I am happy about that. I am preparing to make the mold for the shell right now. So, it goes on. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 25, 2017 Author Share Posted May 25, 2017 Instead of building a tender from scratch, I will use the Hudson's tender and stretch it out 6 inches. I will also use the truck and adapt them. I have already made a pattern for a 4 axle truck to make a mold. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 On 5/5/2017 at 8:36 PM, Chuck said: Nice job with the rods! I found this drawing... I never really stared at these pictures. Now that I finally am, I'm surprised at the differences! 4 different in the series? I've only heard of 2, saying with or without skirts? Very interesting!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 I was going to model it with the deep skirts, would save my making some detail, but that is not my model, so couldn't do it. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 I've always loved skirts ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 This one will have mini skirts. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 28, 2017 Author Share Posted May 28, 2017 I am waiting for parts for the loco., so I am now working on the tender. I am using two Hudson tenders to make one T7 tender for the T1. Here is the Rube Goldberg setup that I used to get the correct curve of the top of the tender and also the correct height. I am using 3 inch PVC pipe to emulate the shape. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 29, 2017 Author Share Posted May 29, 2017 Tried to get the shape of the top of tender, lot's of body work to do, and waiting for another tender in the mail to stretch it out. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 It took two 3 axle trucks to make one 4 axle truck. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 You crafty devil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 I thought, originally, to model the proper trucks, but after looking at the trucks from the Hudsons, why not use those. They were made in about 15 minutes, same mounts, and besides with the skirts on the tender, you can't see them anyway. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 After dabbling with a few models, I have to agree. If it ever bothered you, you could go back and take your time to remake them. I believe that taking easier ways helps to keep interest and satisfaction levels high. If you struggle to much to produce something, it will cross your mind the next time. Sooner or later you may say to your self, it's not worth the effort. Looking at both sides, I would put the effort where it matters the most. Accuracy is important to the level you set. There will always be some compromise somewhere in the model. The trouble with posting on these public forums, is there are people out there that are just looking for some fuel to bash the builder. That makes them feel better about never building anything themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 See Bob, you are having fun figuring out how to accomplish the build! Looking good guy. I just keep in mind that I will be running it outside and sitting on my deck mostly, so lots of accuracy is not called for. I try to be accurate, but like Joe says you can get hung up on something and then never finish it. Only one other train guy here in town and this forum is about the only one I post pictures on, like Joe said you can get bashed by someone who can't build what you are doing but criticizes you anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 I agree. Some use the 10 foot rule, so at ten feet who cares. At my age, I couldn't tell the difference at five feet. I use a 20 foot rule, so it will look good to me. Here is how I am mounting the rod slides, it is adjustable. I will cover the bolts with some sort of plastic to make it look prototypical, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 OK, Budd's workshop is not answering my question about what colors he used on his loco. Does anyone know what colors and type of paint he used? Any ideas would be appreciated. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 Here is how long the tender is going to be, boy it is long. Scale is 51 feet. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Oh the humanity! You chopped it up! I really did not realize how big the tender was. That really shows it. Carry on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 I am sorry that I chopped up your tender, and that's a stretch. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 19 3/8" +?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 Yes, 19.125. On the trucks. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 I had to lay out just how big that tender is on my desk. I have a modern (mid?) 42' USA tank car right here at just over 17" in 1/29! I think that shows just how the Pennsy did things. Iconic engines for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 I need some help. I was putting the side rods on the T1 and discovered, one of the piston rods would not go into the cylinder, so I sanded the end, thinking that there was a burr on it, it didn't work, so I measured the diameter and found that the diam. was .156 instead of .144, like the others. I had just ordered some new ones for a Challenger, so this is what I think. MTH figured that if one was ordering a new rod, the hole in the cylinder, among other things, was probably, because of the wear oversized, so they made the replacements a little larger. to take up some of the slop. I don't know if that is the case, or they just goofed, I don't know. Anyway, if anyone that owns a Challenger and has had to replace the rod assy., maybe because the valve arm came off, or whatever, and has the old one and it is .144 in diam., I need one. It is the front left, the front being longer. I don't need anything that attaches to it, just the rod. I have already sent Ray an email and hopefully he has one. If I order a new one, it most likely will be the larger one, at .156. If I have to, I can tear apart the cylinder and rebuild to the larger size, but the way that I have constructed it would make it quite a job. Thanks, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 I talked to Ray and he didn't have any old ones. I think I have a fix. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 I have Challengers. I don't have any extra drive parts. I do have a spare shell and details. I was waiting to see if you could get the part from Ray or MTH. I would have to pull one off of a working engine and swap with you. I haven't checked to see what size would fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 Thanks Joe, my problem is solved. I re-drilled the hole to size. The reason that I didn't want to do that is the bearing was thin walled brass tubing and I was worried about the wall being too thin, but it worked out OK. Works fine now. Thanks again Joe, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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