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PRR T1 kitbash from 2 Hudsons


rbrown7713
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There are epidural injections that last a pretty long time. After that, they do a burn on the nerve's ends that lasts even longer. It's a discomfort, but the results are worth it. When they wear off, you realize just how bad of shape you are really in.

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Hey Joe, how do you bend styrene?  I like to ask questions to gain as much knowledge before I dive into something.  What I want to do is bend a piece of plastic the shape of the T1's cab roof.  Can you use a hair dryer to bend it?  Should I have a form to make sure that the bend is correct?  I don't know, that is why I am asking. Bob.

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Plastic can be tricky. It needs to be softened so it will bend. Too much and it will melt. We use heat bars to bend formica but the backing is special and takes quite a bit of heat. We coat the surface with a temperature sensitive paint that tells you when it's ready.

Someone suggested putting plastic in boiling water to heat it for flexing?

I did not get good results and never really tried many methods. I usually just belt sand the back with the front roller of my belt sander. That heats it while it thins it and it surely wants to bend. Too much and you'll go right thru!

Glad you got it! I do have a heat gun for formica use as well.

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Joe, I did it with a heat gun.  Most of it sagged with just gravity around the form and then I helped it with a wooden block working around the form, worked well. Bob.  Now, here I am getting ready for the third part of the mold, the door.  It will be hinged.  Then I will make preparations for making the urethane part of the mold that will shape the inside of the shell. Bob.

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This the next to the last step in making the mold for the shell.  The inside is smoothed and new blocks installed for the attaching of the shell to the frame.  Next is making a frame for the pouring of the urethane mold part that I will be doing tomorrow. Bob.

IMG_0965.JPG

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Mine isn't even done.  This is taking too long.  I originally thought that this would be a quick build, so much for that, but I think that I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.  After I pour the shell mold tomorrow, then I have to make the cab mold and that is a challenge. Bob.

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The mold parts came out very well and will provide good detail.  The mold parts must be cleaned up and then I will add more detail, such as rivets in the hard portion of the mold and then make a shell. Bob.

IMG_0968.JPG

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I have been slowed down a bit because my hand is not steady enough to make the rivet heads put into the mold, so I am trying to come up with a tool that will allow me to place the tool in the proper place and then plunge a round head mill bit .015 inches into the surface to make the proper depth for the head.  I have a design, but like most of my designs, I will not know if it will work until after a few trial and many errors.  I will post a video if it works.  If it does not, disregard this post.  I will let you know, Bob.

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Yes.  These are very tough molds. I would prefer to make all of the pieces of the molds out of urethane, but the negative of that, is that you can't alter the mold if it is urethane.  The rigid sections of the mold is made of epoxy resin and glass and allows me to add detail to the mold after making it, such as rivet heads.  I am making a tool to do just that and then when making the part, the rivet heads will be on the part.  If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask, Bob.

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   Bob, thank you very much.  Looks like the finished casting will be fairly thick so I figure very strong.  I hope you have intensions to market the finished product.  A gentleman in I believe the UK did that with the Shark Nose locomotive, but don't know the procedure he took to make his. I also herd that he could only produce a limited number of shells before the mold was no longer useful.  I appreciate any info you can offer to help me understand the procedure.   

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No Nick, I don't have any plans to market this T1.  The only reason that I make the mold was to produce a shell that is made out of one material, plastic.  The original pattern was made of wood, plastic, Bondo and any other material that would take the shape of the T1.  This locomotive will be a one off creation, for me to run on my layout, if I ever get it done. Bob.

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You are welcome Nick.  I don't know how many people make their own molds, but I have just brushed over the procedures of making molds, both hard molds and urethane molds, but if anyone wants more detail, I will be happy to explain how I do it. Bob.

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Yes.  I have made many molds for full size automobiles, full size  airplanes, model airplanes, model boats, and model trains.  I have made molds for an 1:32 E-8, a 1:32 Pullman 1945 observation, a 1:32 Pullman dome car, 1;32 stretch sections to stretch an MTH passenger car 4 inches, both smooth and corrugated, 1:32 Pullman passenger car molds, both smooth and with corrugations, various trucks for passenger cars, and many more that I can't think of right now. I am curious why you ask.  Does it not look like that I don't know what I am doing?  If that is the case, please let me know, and I will clarify any methods or procedures that I use, and If you have any questions, let me know that also.  All of my procedures that I use for pattern making and mold making, I have developed myself, mainly because it is difficult to get some pattern and mold makers to let go of their methods, at least that is what I have found. Any procedures or methods that I have developed, I will share with anyone, if they can use them. Some where, I believe, in this forum, there are pictures of many of my molds, if not here, maybe on My large scale.com. Bob.

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