rbrown7713 Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share Posted August 14, 2017 This was an easy one. The hardest was the cab. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 I can't wait to see her coming together further. ..... and it's not even mine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 I'm as anxious as you are, but now I am trying to do two things at once, the layout and the T1. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted August 15, 2017 Share Posted August 15, 2017 When I boot up this is the first place I go, anxious to see our next progress. I will surely go to the thread about the viaducts, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 I am filling holes with epoxy, and I keep finding new ones, so it takes quite a while, I think I have them all and next will attach the cab to the shell. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaug Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Very Nice looking build I'm modeling in 1:20.3 narrow gauge but I'm longing to do some work in Standard Gauge as I enjoy bashing also, one thing I might pass along is be careful what you glue with "super glues" it's been my learning experience that these types of glues are great for small parts but are not so reliable for larger assemblies because they become brittle and will in fact crack with a minimial amount of pressure or movement in the glued area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 Thanks for the heads up. What do you use for glue for the larger parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaug Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Depending on the material and the size of the joint I may use a combination of adhesives sometimes along with brass reinforcement rod as pins or brass flat stock. Here are a few of the adhesives I use the "Rapid Fuse" adhesives are super glues but they have a filler that seeps into any voids that may be in the material to be joined. Also is a pic of some Model Master Clear adhesive made primarily for window glazing plastic as it dries completely clear. I also use a Plastic Epoxy I didn't have a pic of here. I've had very good luck with "The Ultimate" adhesive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 For joining large parts I also use gauze in the inside along with the adhesive, extremely strong. LG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 Wow, I didn't realize that there were that many choices. I have just been using medium thickness CA. I had better check all of my locos and cars to see if there is any weakness. Maybe I had better rethink my use of adhesives. Thanks for providing this information, I can use it, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 The Gorilla Super Glue with Blue Cap has a rubberizer agent in it that eliminates brittle joints. It can even glue die-cast metal parts back together such as detail parts back onto the USA Hudson's & Big Boys. http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-super-glue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 I am making number boards for the T1. I tried to print and get the proper colors, and not success, so I am trying the multicolor plastic used in plaques and signs. I am using black and white. The black is very thin and when machined shows the white, so maybe success, maybe not, will machine today and we shall see. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/changing-engine-number-boards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 Thanks Joe. I went to the post, but no pictures. I did it this way. I used the type of plastic that is laminated with two colors, this case black outside and white inside. I messed up the first few tries because I went too deep with the ball mill. I ended up only cutting a depth of .005 and that produced the best results. Here is a picture and you can see my first failures on the left and the actual board on the right. If I choose to use lights, the light will go through the white numbers. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 I like it! Most guys just use a printer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 In the past, I also used the printer, but the number boards on the T1 are flush with the outside panel, so the part that you see will be the side of the number board box. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 Bob, the beauty is in the detail, I can't wait to see more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted September 2, 2017 Author Share Posted September 2, 2017 Mock up and coming along slowly. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Whoa! She looks fast just sitting! We've got to get her into the paint shop soon. We're all counting on you. The real one is far behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 Bob, very happy to see that, you were quiet for a time and I was becoming concerned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted September 3, 2017 Author Share Posted September 3, 2017 Yes, a few more details, then paint. I want to get her done before the T1 trusts' loco. is done. I have been slacking off of the loco. project because I have been working more on the outdoor layout, but trying to do both, the concrete is getting heavier for some reason. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 Thanks for your concern, but I am still kicken. I finally got the shell mounted permanently to the frame, what a nightmare, so now for some more details, windows, electronics and paint. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 Looking good, sure is a monster! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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