enginear joe Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 You are making quick work of something that I thought would be a task! I stalled on my build as I designed some grilles that failed. The molds are good but I don't have any fresh resin. I tried the old stuff and it's all bubbles. So I'm off to get a small kit to make the intake grilles out of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 I take this back, This build is more of a scratch build rather than a kit bash, oh well, I have always said that I like a challenge, well this more of a challenge than I bargained for. Bob.l Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 Glassed the foam and needs quite a bit more shaping. Formed the cab shape. Waiting for parts for the gears. Car broke down, key won't turn in the ignition, another challenge. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Bob from what I have studied about the prototyper there were two very different noses on the T1, and by that I dont mean the diference to the pilot and compressor sheilds between the "Buick" version and the later modified front end of the 50 series locomotives with the stairs going down from the running boards. The wedge shaped smoke box front on the two original prototypes is much more narrow and longer than on the later series models which had a blunter nose. As many of the drawings show the original (prototype) version this can be misleading. I just thought that you might want to know that, to be carefull about from which drawing to work out the from. Of course that prototype version was much more esthetically satisfying than the later more functional version. It is a fascinating project, keep up the good work. Glad these photos could be of help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 Yes, I found that out. Thanks for the confirmation. You obviously have a vast knowledge of the T1 that I don't have, so I am finding things out as I go. The O gauge shell and yours are the shorter wedge and my drawing is of the earlier version. I originally made the wedge like the drawing and then realized that there might be a difference so I got on bing photoes and there I saw the difference. I cut the foam out and started over, so mine will be of the later shorter type. I saw your aluminum caboose and what a gem. It would be nice if you would show how you worked the aluminum, I have never worked in thin aluminum like that and would like to see how you did it, and probably other people would also. I got some rods to day to set up a jig on my mill to mill a flat on the gear box to take the angle out of the shaft so that I may run a motor inline with the shaft, so we will see how that comes out. I will have to make a mold and re cast the two halves of the gear box to make it work. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 I did four different articles in Steam in the Garden magazine about the construction technique I use with plenty of photos explaining how it is done. It was around 2012-13, Basically I used the method that David Leech described in the G1MRA newsletter and then added details and rivets because I wanted to model some heavyweight cars. The articles describe the N5 cabin car, a PRR B 60 baggage car and a D78 diner. and there was a short peice on how I make diaphragms for coaches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Thank you very much, and I will look those up as I am sure they will be very useful. I was able to straighten the input shaft on the Hudson gearbox and the gears mesh perfectly, one more to go. Here is a picture. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 It should make for a very good drive, MTH mechanism are really very good; although my experience is based on the GG1 and diesels. But they have bronze gears, and bushes for the journals. Good motors too. I have had many engines with transmition to other drivers through side rods with little or no problems (mainly in HO but most of my live steam also in gauge one) and I wouldn't worry about that too much especially since the cranks certaily seem sturdy enough. Are the driver centers plastic or metal? You should turn down the flanges a bit while everything is accessible. I did that on the GG1 and on my F3 and it transformed the engines. I leave about 0,9mm depth and it works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 The driver centers are plastic. My goal is to have all drivers engaged by a motor and not by the side rods. I feel it is more efficient to have the drivers turning at the same rpm without the intermittent push pull of the side rods, to me it adds drag to the system and not power, but I might not be able to mechanically have all drivers powered, unless I can get two more gear boxes, as they are hard to come by. I can have two axles powered as it is. I was going to try to provide power by means of a timing belt, but there is little room and would have to punch holes in the gear box casing and that might not be good. MTH is supposed to be seeing if there are spare parts for the Hudson, but I am not going to hold my breath, they won't even answer emails much less, provide the parts. They say that the Hudson is an old loco., well new ones don't need parts, but the old ones are the ones that need the parts. I think their thinking is backwards. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 For parts try to contact Midge Wilburn there she is very good at getting spare parts but it oiften takes months to get an answer, especially around Christmas time. Raymond might have a better idea though. But I am sure that driving with the rods wont be a problem really, unless there is too much play but that shouldn't be the case as thye hudson drive system is bassed on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 You are right about the side rods driving the other axles, but I would prefer driving all axles with the motor, but I might have to resort to the side rods driving, Here is the mold ready for the second pour for the corrected gear box. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Might pour a gear box today. Getting the major parts located. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Whoa.... Looks more like a gun than a loco! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 It's a loco. Joe, but your aim was right on target, a cheap shot for sure. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 I did not want to continually post how great a job you are doing. It would sound repetitive and not be of any help. So I took the juvenile route. I figure you may need a shot of help on the subject matter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 I did, this is more of a challenge than I thought. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 Building a locomotive is always more than you plan it to be, but worth it in the end. You are doing great as usual! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Thank you Jerry. All of the locos that I have done before seemed to be straight forward, but this one is throwing me a curve, but I will get through it. A little more fairing work, some pictures. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Little pun there on the curves? :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 I can't help it. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 Well, a little bondo and lot's of sanding, and then something else. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Almost ready for a pressure test. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 Hey du-bousquetaire, did I get the Belpair firebox correct, well, I hope it is close enough. I got the shape from pictures and I hope it represents the general idea. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 Trying to get the windows right. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Boy it's going to be hard for the engineers to see out of those windows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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