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PRR T1 kitbash from 2 Hudsons


rbrown7713
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You are making quick work of something that I thought would be a task!

I stalled on my build as I designed some grilles that failed. The molds are good but I don't have any fresh resin. I tried the old stuff and it's all bubbles. So I'm off to get a small kit to make the intake grilles out of.

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Bob from what I have studied about the prototyper there were two very different noses on the T1, and by that I dont mean the diference to the pilot and compressor sheilds between the "Buick" version and the later modified front end of the 50 series locomotives with the stairs going down from the running boards. The wedge shaped smoke box front on the two original prototypes is much more narrow and longer than on the later series models which had a blunter nose. As many of the drawings show the original (prototype) version this can be misleading. I just thought that you might want to know that, to be carefull about from which drawing to work out the from. Of course that prototype version was much more esthetically satisfying than the later more functional version. It is a fascinating project, keep up the good work.

Glad these photos could be of help.

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Yes, I found that out. Thanks for the confirmation. You obviously have a vast knowledge of the T1 that I don't have, so I am finding things out as I go.  The O gauge shell and yours are the shorter wedge and my drawing is of the earlier version.  I originally made the wedge like the drawing and then realized that there might be a difference so I got on bing photoes and there I saw the difference.  I cut the foam out and started over, so mine will be of the later shorter type.  I saw your aluminum caboose and what a gem.  It would be nice if you would show how you worked the aluminum, I have never worked in thin aluminum like that and would like to see how you did it, and probably other people would also.  I got some rods to day to set up a jig on  my mill to mill a flat on the gear box to take the angle out of the shaft so that I may run a motor inline with the shaft, so we will see how that comes out.  I will have to make a mold and re cast the two halves of the gear box to make it work. Bob.

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I did four  different articles in Steam in the Garden magazine about the construction technique I use with plenty of photos explaining how it is done. It was around 2012-13, Basically I used the method that David Leech described in the G1MRA newsletter and then added details and rivets because I wanted to model some heavyweight cars. The articles describe the N5 cabin car, a PRR B 60 baggage car and a D78 diner. and there was a short peice on how I make diaphragms for coaches.

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It should make for a very good drive, MTH mechanism are really very good; although my experience is based on the GG1 and diesels. But they have bronze gears, and bushes for the journals. Good motors too. I have had many engines with transmition to other drivers through side rods with little or no problems (mainly in HO but most of my live steam also in gauge one) and I wouldn't worry about that too much especially since the cranks certaily seem sturdy enough. Are the driver centers plastic or metal? You should turn down the flanges a bit while everything is accessible. I did that on the GG1 and on my F3 and it transformed the engines. I leave about 0,9mm depth and it works fine.

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The driver centers are plastic.  My goal is to have all drivers engaged by a motor and not by the side rods.  I feel it is more efficient to have the drivers turning at the same rpm without the intermittent push pull of the side rods, to me it adds drag to the system and not power, but I might not be able to mechanically have all drivers powered, unless I can get two more gear boxes, as they are hard to come by. I can have two axles powered as it is. I was going to try to provide power by means of a timing belt, but there is little room and would have to punch holes in the gear box casing and that might not be good. MTH is supposed to be seeing if there are spare parts for the Hudson, but I am not going to hold my breath, they won't even answer emails much less, provide the parts.  They say that the Hudson is an old loco., well new ones don't need parts, but the old ones are the ones that need the parts. I think their thinking is backwards. Bob. 

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For parts try to contact Midge Wilburn there she is very good at getting spare parts but it oiften takes months to get an answer, especially around Christmas time. Raymond might have a better idea though. But I am sure that driving with the rods wont be a problem really, unless there is too much play but that shouldn't be the case as thye hudson drive system is bassed on that.

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You are right about the side rods driving the other axles, but I would prefer driving all axles with the motor, but I might have to resort to the side rods driving,  Here is the mold ready for the second pour for the corrected gear box. Bob.

IMG_0849.JPG

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