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Live Steam Salvage Tug Kit


Screwy Nick
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I once again wandered from the directions. There is a whistle provided. It is connected to the valve that controls the steam to the engine and is designed to direct steam to the whistle when the throttle is beyond fully opened. While it makes a nice sound the engine is revving way too high for my liking. I decided to tap off another port of the boiler and install a whistle valve, which would also require another servo and can activate the whistle without changing the vessel speed. Ordered a full whistle and valve from PM Research, who BTW are great people and will answer and explain, far beyond my understanding. Very glad I ordered the valve with the whistle instead of just the valve as there is so much more than just bringing steam or air to the opening on a pipe to make the sound. Other more 'in tuned' hopefully will chime in. Anyway, using the whistle openings provided with the assembly and making a Whistle Bell I was able to produce a very nice sound. Another great learning experience for me. As you can see the Bell does need some refining. Life is Good

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   Taking the advice of Sean I purchased the Frog tape. I found it much easier to use than the old blue masking i have been using forever. The tape is translucent so I can easily see where it is really stuck, and the manufacturer says it can be easily removed even if left on over 24 hours, we'll see. Also found a source of sunlight that I carry every morning when I walk Ms Maizey, my small LED B & H flash light with the beam opened up all the way. Again drifting from the directions, I decided to go with Dark Grey instead of black, show more of the detail,  for the upper hull. So far painted the upper bulwark and when that cures I'll flip it over and paint the remaining hull. Life is Good

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  • 2 weeks later...

Took me 4 separate maskings to get the hull like this. With my finger I can feel a sharp difference at the Red/Grey line, that I hope to remove with 1500 paper. Also going to use the same to try to correct my error in properly covering a couple of areas. I still haven't applied the clear lacquer coat. I'm going to wait longer for the cure than the manufacturer recommends, I'll hate myself if it wrinkled after all this. Again, I do like the Frog tape.
As you can see comparing these with previous pics, and drifting from the directions, I've made the rudder removable.

I also see where I have to touch up the Starboard Propeller shaft support bracket.  

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  After a good coat of clear I was ready to apply the markings to the hull . While trying to get familiar with them as none were provided with the kit. Cut an unmarked piece of the card supplied, placed it in water and nothing happened. What I thought were decals appear to be peal and stick labels. I am not familiar with them as I have never used them before. I'd be grateful hearing from anyone with experience with them. They are much thicker than what I am used to with decals and don't know if they need some sort of softening medium as decals do. Thank You. LiG .

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Joe, I really don't know what they are made of, but have never seen this type of marker before.  I assume you are familiar and have some much appreciated advice. Sorry but I will be off line till tomorrow, but will appreciate any advice you have for me,  Thank You    

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I got some very thin vinyl decals and just stuck them on. They came with transfer tape which you apply over the top before removing from their backing. That keeps everything aligned nicely.

After I was done, someone gave me tips on handling and applying. It was too late for some of the tips. I forget them now. I believe one was applying heat to help them go over surfaces. another was applying different topcoats to protect them which led to an argument. I was happy the way they were so I never touched them.

 That's what's on my CSX SD70ACE in the post about scratch builds.

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  I received a reply on another forum, these are very thick and really hard to 'blend' with the model.  Stan Cederleaf is a printer of decals, and his work is excellent as he has made some for me before.   I sent him a scan of the marker sheet and DO DA, I will be using decals as I am used to.    LiG

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Thank You Joe, but the real coudos go to Stan, I just followed his instructions to the letter.   I have enough left for another boat, anyone interested just send me a PM and I'll post them to you.     Life is Good

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Yes, but very rough at this time, it's much bigger than I thought.   I am seriously considering building a Harbor Tug and a smaller barge to go with that, have to talk to Nick @ Harbor Models before I make up my mind.  LiG

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Made a 90' fitting for the connection from the tank to the stack. Cut an angle on the bottom of the tube that is inserted into the tank then soldered it in place. I copied a posting on another forum,  I added a short piece of tubing with a screw to close it. Now I just have to remove the screw, insert the syringe and suck out the water/oil mixture. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I drifted from the actual boat build. Having learned the hard way what simple household dust can do to a model, that may have taken months or more to build, I decided to be pro-active and make a cover for my Tug. Local big box store and had 3/16" acrylic cut to my dimensions. Only after I started to work the project a couple of days later did I see the cuts left a lot to be desired. I couldn't use the solvent weld products that I have in the past. After trying several adhesives on scraps I found a fish tank adhesive that was better than any others I tried. I will keep the tape on for a while longer to make sure it has plenty of time to cure. LiG

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