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JoeKnight17
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I run O scale but have an interest in running G gauge too. This is relatively new to me so I would like to get some information. There are a few manufacturers that I know of but would like to know which one is better and more reliable. Also what is the best track to use outdoors? I live in Illinois so this could be an issue. For now this would be a good start so I hope to get some feedback.

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From a reliability perspective when it comes to mainline engines I would go with MTH or USA Trains.  For narrow gauge Bachmann will be your only option and definitely would buy what they have.

  • Aristocraft:  is out of business.  Used plastic gears that eventually wear out (heavy / long term use) and parts may or may not be available to repair going forward.  
  • MTH: (1/32 scale)  Uses all metal gears (worm and axle gears) along with solid metal axles (on all steam and diesels).  Gears are the number one wear/failure point so all metal will last the lifetime of the engine.  Electronics are solid and reliable.  I have a photos of MTH steam and diesel on my website.
  • USA Trains: (1/29 scale)  Steam engines use all metal gears (worm and axle gears) and are built like tanks.  Diesels use plastic axle/idler gears with metal worm gears so under really heavy use some gears may need to be replaced at some point but parts are readily available and aren't that expensive.  (Normally gear wear doesn't become an issue till after a LOT of running and would say the average users never have problems)  Detail on steam engines is incredible being all die cast metal (but makes them heavy and cost more).  Detail on Diesels is excellent.  I have photos of USA Trains steam on my website.
  • LGB:  Went out of business but another company picked up the line and has produced some of the old LGB product.  Idler and axle gears are mostly made of plastic so if you have a failure not sure on availability of parts.  (Someone more familiar with the current state of LGB may be able to speak to this).  One engine I had personal experience with was the LGB Mikdado and found it to have motor overheat problems that I could never resolve.  Overall I have had limited experience with LGB.  The old LGB had a good fan base/following.  
  • Bachmann:  Produces Narrow gauge for G scale and is basically your only option.  I wouldn't hesitate to buy Bachmann if you are wanting something they produce.
  • Accucraft/AML:  Shouldn't have issues with reliability (electric powered).  These are made of brass so will be more expensive and more difficult to take apart if you need to work on them. 

 

Overall, there is some duplication in what is produced as far as models, but if you are into steam there bigger differences into construction type/method/materials/scale and thus cost between MTH and USA Trains.   So there are other considerations that will have to be taken into account and will come down to personal choice.

 

For outdoor track I personally recommend Stainless Steel.

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Thanks for the information. Who sells stainless steel track? I was also told to use brass track. I know LGB sells the brass. Can all G gauge trains be used on ANY track or do different manufacturers require that only their track be used? For example can LGB and Bachmann run on any G gauge track?

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For Stainless track:  AML, HR Trains, Aristocraft(old stock - I actually have some tubes of SS)

 

Two main issues with brass track is the fact that brass oxidizes with moisture that can cause track power pickup problems requiring the surface to be cleaned with something abrasive to get it off.  Also using brass track I have found creates carbon dust that builds up on the wheels causing power pickup problems as well.  (I have found the carbon issue to be a bigger issue than the oxidation and it builds up quickly).

 

Any G scale train can run on any G scale track (width wise) as the track is all the same width and the engines have wheel gauge all the same to run on that same track. (There are no restrictions that certain mfg have to run on certain mfg/type of track)   You will encounter different 'Codes' of rail which is the height/size.  Aristocraft, USA Trains ,HR trains and AML(as I recall) are all 332 and can run any trains.  Code 250 is produced by some other producers and should be able to run anything.  I know that once you get below 332 rail you can run into the situation where the wheel flanges on the cars and engines can bump the ties depending on how tall the flanges are.  With code 250 I think you are safe from this problem, others may have different experience.  I personally would stick with 332 but that is just my opinion.

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I dont have any recommendations on Books.  They do have Garden Railroad Magazine but I have never subscribed as I have gotten the information I've needed online.  I think your best bet is to spend time online doing Google searches and reading different input on different subjects and form your own opinion on what you want to go with.

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Joe,

Here is a link to some Garden Railroading How to books. Any of these should give you a good start. 

https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/catalog/garden-railroading

If your looking for video's, try YouTube. Do a search for "Garden Railroading How Too". Here is the first one that came up:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTpaHKF3-VQ

 

As far as equipment goes. I've been using Aristo Craft and USA trains for the past 12 years. Both are very reliable. I've never owned LGB or MTH, but I suspect those are equally good, but on the expensive side. I've owned several Bachmann's and if you can afford any of the others, you probably would want to stear clear of the low end side of the Bachmann line. I'm sure the answer will change, depending on who you talk to though.

 

As far as track goes. I've never used Stainless steel. I normally use Brass or Aluminum. Brass will need to be periodically cleaned, but it's no big deal.  If you plan on going to battery power, then aluminum is the way to go as it's the cheapest. I switched to battery after about 5 years of using track power and I recommend doing that. 

 

If you can find a club in your area, that's an excellent way of getting information and visiting a few layouts to actually see what it's all about before making your decision. 

 

Anyway, good luck and have fun. You can go to my web site which has links to several how to video links and documentation if that would help. 

 

http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/

 

Mark

http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/

 

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Joe as part of your research you will want to take the time to actually lookup the product sold by each of the manufacturers (Pricing, Photos, Details).   I will provide some below

 

Examples:

STEAM:

USA Trains: Big Boy $3799.95  (http://charlesro-com.3dcartstores.com/usatrains_bigboy.html)  (Includes:  Sound/Lights/Smoke.  No Digital control installed)  (All Die cast metal construction 1:29 scale)

               - Photos:  http://www.gscaletrainforum.com/index.php?/topic/196-usa-trains-big-boy-photos-video/

 

MTH:  Big Boy  $1329.95 - $1399.95  (Includes:  Sound, Lights, Smoke, w/Digital control built in)  (Plastic boiler and tender shell.  Die cast engine frame 1:32 scale)

               - Photos:  http://www.gscaletrainforum.com/index.php?/topic/197-mth-big-boy-one-gauge-photos/

 

Note:  In the case for the Big Boy, the MTH is less that half the price.  The difference in cost has to do with construction material.  

 

 

DIESEL:

USA Trains:  SD70  $434.95  (http://charlesro-com.3dcartstores.com/SD-70-MAC-Locomotive_c_255.html  (Includes:  Lights/Smoke.  No Sound/Speaker/Digital control installed)  (1:29 scale)

               - Photos: http://www.gscaletrainforum.com/index.php?/topic/1163-usa-trains-sd70-photosvideos/

 

MTH: Dash-8 $569.95   http://www.rayman4449.com/MTH/MTH_OneGauge.htm  (Includes:  Sound/Speaker/Light/Smoke/Digital control pre-installed) (1:32 scale)

 

               - Photos:  http://www.gscaletrainforum.com/index.php?/topic/350-mth-dash-8-one-gauge-photos/&tab=comments#comment-2863

 

Note:  In this case (diesel) the MTH is more expensive than the USA trains diesel.  Cost difference of ~$135.00 is due to the MTH being fully installed with Sound/Speaker/Lights/Smoke and Digital control electronics).   On the USA if you want those you have to figure the additional cost for the electronics (and labor if you don't install/configure yourself).

 

 

 

To further elaborate on the Brass track carbon dust issue, as noted I run Stainless steel and I never have to clean wheels or track.  In the first train show display where I ran lighted passenger cars running on brass track for two days I found that when I got my passenger cars back to run at home, the passenger car lights were all flickering. (something they had never done before in all the months of running at home)  It ended up being the wheels had build-up on them from being run on the brass track I used for the train show display (brand new AML & Aristocraft track).  While I never captured a photo of it, there were mounds of black carbon dust at track joints that had space where my track wipers were collecting and pushing off at the gap.  Every passenger car wheel has to be cleaned to fix the problem.  I point this out because it was not something you will read about as an issue because most aren't even aware of it.  They just know they have power conductivity issues and between cleaning the brass rail and wheels some decide to just go battery power to get away from the problems with 'running trains outside'.  Stainless Steel track does help to avoid those issues.

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Use code 250 for sure anyway. Sunset Valley RR has SS in code 250.  They have great switches and clamps also. Never had any problems with flanges of any make of train.

https://www.sunsetvalleyrailroad.com/ 

Trains really look best on code 250, the larger codes can make them look toy like. I really like the MTH engines and coming with the sound/digital control they end up being a bargain. Installing a lot of the stuff can be a problem. Aristo Craft is no longer made, so getting parts can be a problem. MTH seems okay and so is USA I've heard. USA's axles can be a problem, being plastic. MTH is all metal. Plus MTH has fantastic smoke.  Being 1/32 scale they are lighter weight and easier to move around. Plus you can still have a long train on a small layout. Check my web page for some videos.  No matter what you get they will need maintenance, just like a real train/railroad, but that is part of the fun!  Check around for a G scale club, can get some good info that way. Lot of used stuff coming up for sale anymore, usually you do okay, but can get stung.

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Welcome to G scale. I personally collect and run aristocraft (out of business) and usa trians/CharlesRo. I like usa trians because of there quality and selection of engines and rolling stock. I would look at what you want to run, types and road name, too see what manufacturer makes the most sense for you. That will also help you when deciding what size layout you want to make as well, min curve dia is an issue.  If you have additional questions as you do your research post. Everyone here has a wealth of knowledge so take advantage.

I live in Illinois also.

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  • 1 month later...

In an earlier answer to your question about power supplies the possibility of rectifying the output of a variable channel of a TIU powered by a AC power source was suggested.  That way the rectified CD output could be used to control the voltage to the track and vary the speed of a locomotive.  That setup alone would not give control of the direction of the loco.  However it is a simple matter to put the DC output through  two appropriately wired AIU switches to reverse the polarity of the DC voltage and the direction of the loco.  The two AIU switches have to be linked as a scene for switching voltages plus and minus voltages simultaneously.  I run LGB locos with my MTH controller this way all the time.  

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On 10/28/2017 at 9:48 PM, Rayman4449 said:

The AIU relay ports are rated at 4amps so anyone doing this needs to keep that limitation in mind and use the appropriate fuse.

 

On 10/28/2017 at 9:48 PM, Rayman4449 said:

The AIU relay ports are rated at 4amps so anyone doing this needs to keep that limitation in mind and use the appropriate fuse.

 

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The 4-amp rating is important.  Thanks for pointing it out to me (I probably needed the reminder!) and others who might not have known.  When I run an LGB loco as described earlier it typically draws 1-2 amps.  In addition, I use a 3-amp fast-blow fuse to protect the AIU relay ports.

 

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