yoakam Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 Long time ago , i was here, now i am back and i want to share with you my new project, the former models were UP 9000 , Centennial, and Turbines. This is the first time i go with a full metal chassis and a drive frame completely build on my own. During building , i changed over to full cast drivers, a small companie makes the casting for me from a model i have send them. I decided also to fully suspend the drivers and add some ballbearings, build also a tool to press and quarter the drivers. worth to mention, i have no milling maschine, only an old lathe, a bench drill, some files a saw and some common hand tools . Now i am working with the DCS components to install. stay tuned , hope you enjoy it. Carsten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 Beautiful work Carsten! I've been following online and did a lot of work in a short time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoakam Posted September 10, 2017 Author Share Posted September 10, 2017 Thank you Raymond, yes , that is the proper work for spending the free time after work. The progress here goes fast , but it dooes not show the unsuccessful issues in the development, but the good thing is , the experience from that, goes into the next one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 I wouldn't know for sure. I've heard that brass drivers needs to be coated at the least? I would think stainless rims would be needed to hold up to the rigors of use outside? I would also lube the heck out of those siderods to keep them from wearing fast. I too think the workmanship looks great. I'm just wondering about the choice of materials? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoakam Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 What choice do you mean ? the combination of aluminum and brass? for the boiler for example a pipe in the needed diameter was not available. Yes you are right with rims, it might be better using steelrims, the first version got printed driver with rims, but the printing was not so durable as i thought so i changed over to brass, plating with chrome nickel could be helpful here, maybe for the next model. yes there will be lube when everything is ready, but during assembly and adjusting, it is better without. At this point brass is easier for me to handle, sawing , filling, and solder. it is my first metal work , so my skills will grow up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 You are doing a beautiful job. I only meant choosing brass for the rims, and it also appears for the siderods. Because it's a softer metal, it's easier to work with. However, that maybe it's major weakness when used in high wear areas. I really did not mean to detract from your work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 One thing to note is that Stainless steel is a very hard metal especially when you start looking at machining. I have a lathe and so far haven't attempted it because of the hardness of the metal. MTH steamers use some form of brass alloy for their driver tires/rims (some brass alloys are probably harder than others), Aristocraft used brass too for their main drivers/diesel wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoakam Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 3 hours ago, enginear joe said: You are doing a beautiful job. I only meant choosing brass for the rims, and it also appears for the siderods. Because it's a softer metal, it's easier to work with. However, that maybe it's major weakness when used in high wear areas. I really did not mean to detract from your work. Ok i know now what you want to tell me. Yes , you are right , for heavy use outdoor it is not best choice, but i must say, that was not my intention, every of my models have to run well, should be right in scale, if possible, you know running big Steamers, Diesels etc on 45 mm narrow gauge track is always a compromise, but if it looks right it is ok for me. For me the main part is developing, building such engines, yes they are able run, but the most lucky part is over when they are finished, then i start a new project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 Hi Carsten: My 1/32 scale SNCF 2-D-2 9100 that I scratch built around 20 years ago, with nose suspended individually driven brass drivers with Maxon motors has been working very reliably for all these years. the problem is arcing, if you use a motor that has a big current draw it will provoque arcing on the rail and the driver rim. If your motor is not too greedy the rims keep clean and you don't have any problems. This by the way predated the Fulgurex model by about four or five years. It is built in brass and nickel silver also. Congratulation on your good job on your modeling the FEF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoakam Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 Thank you, the motor is a low current draw pitman, which was original installed in my USAT Hudson. Due to the full brass frame of the engine, i did not thought about using the drivers for power pickup, in the centipede tender i use the 7 axles for power pickup, i was very surprised how good it works. Your model looks fine, do you have more pictures of it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 I was thinking more about my comment above. If and when those tires ever gave you any issue, you could always add new tires after some quick machining. We have a guy who installs them with stainless tube cut and machined to specs. He can insulate the tire as well if needed. He helped me convert a 3 rail O gauge MTH Allegheny over for 2 rail use. So I see how he did it. The thing is, as with yours, I added power pick-ups to the lead and trailing truck as I found it easier to do there. That helps the engine go over my dead frogs on switches. It was hard to do on the main drivers, as one side had the tires insulated. So a spark would jump to the driver and cause a short whenever the brushes moved a hair. Time will tell you what to do. I over reacted to something I saw. This will be a great looking engine when you're finished and you should be proud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 Yoakam..Superb job on your scratchbuilt loco's! As stated above most all manufacturers use a nickel plated brass alloy for drivers, wheels etc. I even seen nickel plated brass used for connecting & main rods. MTH gearboxes use a bronze spur gear driven by a steel worm and they're bulletproof. I had a AML/ Accucraft K4 that had a very rough finish on the backside of the drive wheel tires. The power pickup brushes were wearing rather fast so I removed the drive wheels, chucked into my lathe and cut the backside to smooth them up and then polish them. Well Accucraft claimed "stainless steel drivers"...ha ha ha as once I started cutting it was a layer of nickel, then copper and then brass/ bronze. I have a Lionel Atlantic with 1,000 scale miles on it...aluminum drive wheel tires with no wear...and it weighs over 10 pounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoakam Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 15 hours ago, enginear joe said: I was thinking more about my comment above. If and when those tires ever gave you any issue, you could always add new tires after some quick machining. We have a guy who installs them with stainless tube cut and machined to specs. He can insulate the tire as well if needed. He helped me convert a 3 rail O gauge MTH Allegheny over for 2 rail use. So I see how he did it. The thing is, as with yours, I added power pick-ups to the lead and trailing truck as I found it easier to do there. That helps the engine go over my dead frogs on switches. It was hard to do on the main drivers, as one side had the tires insulated. So a spark would jump to the driver and cause a short whenever the brushes moved a hair. Time will tell you what to do. I over reacted to something I saw. This will be a great looking engine when you're finished and you should be proud. enginear joe , you are right with your remarks, and no i dont think you over reacted. It is good to read diffenent opinions , it will help me to build better models, this time i was going with drive and frame work completely on my own, the former models used USAT , LGB gearboxes, but for this one nothing commercial would fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoakam Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 Chuck, thank you yes i know the MTH gearboxes , but i do not know that they sold them as spareparts,i would take them for my next upcomming model. Here i go with a gearbox from Helmig Demko, it is not easier to find the propper parts here in Germany. Interesting what you say about aluminium rims , the first version of my engine has got aluminum rims on 3 D printed drivers, but they are not durable as i thought , so i changed over to something more solid . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 Amazing work, looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoakam Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 Thank you, Jerry. I have to say the first inspiration was when i have seen your FEF version, last year i talked at great open house near Frankfurt with some guys about a model , the final starting shot , was the announcement of USAT releasing the FEF, this year. It will be unknow if it will be available here in Germany, import will not be an option, so i build one on my own, ok it will not wining when compared. I am happy with my USAT Hudson and Big Boy , so no need to wait and place money away for it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Amazing work Yoakam. Beautiful and your mechanical skills are great. I can only use CA glue, can't solder, tried it and melted the plastic. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoakam Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 10 hours ago, rbrown7713 said: Amazing work Yoakam. Beautiful and your mechanical skills are great. I can only use CA glue, can't solder, tried it and melted the plastic. Bob. Thanky you, the models before was made of polystyrene ( Centennial, UP 9000 , Big Blow etc ) using CA , this is my first in full metal, not very happy with each solder but, the next model will be better. I also following your amazing work on the T1 , Carsten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Thanks Carsten. I am shaping it and adding detail, slow, but I will get there. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoakam Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 adding USAT smokeunits , crew , DSC wiring, next week i will go, with décoder , speaker in the centipede Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoakam Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 You did a fantastic job and should be proud of that project. You are brave delving into brass, something I could not do. Looks great, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Yeap. Beautiful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benshell Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Wow, this is very impressive! Great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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