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Great Trains Superliner stretch to 85'


rbrown7713
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Here is the next challenge and I say challenge because this is not as easy as the roofs.  As you can see, there are protrusions and those have to be made level or below  the top of the mold, otherwise,  I would have to fill the top mold and quickly place it on the lower mold and what would probably happen is the plastic would run out before I got the top mold in place, so, the whole part has to be below the top of the lower mold, so I will have to do some figuring on this one. Bob.

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could you use those as fill holes or squeeze out holes if the mold is a squeeze mold? If a fill mold you could then cut them to size after the pour? I maybe way off as how you are planning this one?

I picture the side laying face down with these protruding upwards.

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What you say is true, but the way I try to make my molds is to produce a part that requires no additions or post  trimming.  I don't always achieve that, but I think that I can with these, we shall see.  OK, I was just looking at the picture above and just realized how  I am going to do it, sometimes it takes me a while. Bob.

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Well, here I am again, waiting on a shipment of urethane.  Here are some pictures of the last of the large molds side and frame of the Amfleet,  and next I will post some pics. of the small parts for the Superliner. Bob.

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For the Superliner, I am using styrene sheets for the sides, and for the ends and the roof, I will be using poured urethane plastic, just like the original, and as for the Amfleet cars, I will use poured urethane plastic for the sides, roof.  frame and ends. Once I get the sides of the  Superliner arranged, I might try to pour them too. Bob.

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No, I don't mix mediums,  plastic will be fine and strong enough throughout  and also much easier to work with.  Great trains glued the frame, sides, and ends, of the Superliners,  but I am going to screw them together, because I will need access to the inside for the diaphragms, lights, and  because I might install interiors in them later.  The Amfleet cars are all screwed together and I am maintaining that method.  Ralph Brown made dies to stamp the detail doors and vents out of thin aluminum as you can see here, and since I don't have the dies, I will cast them out of urethane plastic, I hope as, they are awful thin. Bob.

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I finally got my 3d printed trucks back from the shop and here are some pictures of them raw, no sanding or filling yet.  While these parts, overall are accurate, there are some rough spots on them and will be worked out before I make molds of them.  These parts were printed on an FDM, fused deposition modeling, type printer that can be purchased with a cost from between, 6,000.00, to 8,600.00 dollars and the same shop is producing some of my window  frames on this same type machine and will be receiving them soon, so we will see how they come out.  This shop also has a resin type 3d printer that prints in a much smaller resolution for twice the price. Bob.

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Yes, to print a part with smooth surfaces, the resin type printer, SLA  is one of the best, but the prices of commercial ones start at 7,000 and go up to 200, 000, and produce parts that one has to try hard to see any layering, but these parts are fine for what I am going to do with them, and that is to make urethane molds after smoothing them out, a little body work and they will be OK. Bob.

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On 1/19/2018 at 8:19 AM, Sean said:

I thought you would try aluninuuummmm for the frame ..

To add the reasons as to why not aluminum, for one, I am lazy, look at the frame ready for the second pour and you can see that all of the mounting holes are already there for the sides, undercarriage and holes for the ends, why re-invent the wheel.  Also, as far as strength, by the time that I attach the sides, it is like making a box, very strong.

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