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Great Trains Superliner stretch to 85'


rbrown7713
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Here is the first side ready for the second part of the mold.  Received my urethane and will be pouring the rest of the molds. I am broke for this month, as I have spent over 1,000.00 for urethane this month, and shouldn't need any more for now. Just looked at the mold and forgot the  bridge spars, so not ready.  Bob.

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Well, it was bound to happen.  I have been batting a 1000 for along time, but my average has come to an end.  I was making an effort to pour two parts to the mold, so that I wouldn't have to pour the walls down a very narrow channel and in doing so, I overlooked the fact that the opening to the center of the end was was not filled, so, yes I made a mistake, but not all is lost, in fact this might turn out better than my mistake.  Now, I will have a three part mold and make it even easier to get the part out of the mold.  What I will do is pour through the door, making the third part of the mold and filling the void and then after that, pour, part two..  Sometimes making a mistake is good. Bob.

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I am interesed to see how everyone else builds these vents, please share them, as we will all learn something.  I was going to build these, two per car, but I am lazy, so I am attempting to turn this one into a pattern and then, of course, make a mold.  It takes too long for me to assemble these one by one. Bob.

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The vents I model on modern diesels, are folded screens mainly. They act as air intakes or vents in real life. There are (something like) the vents you're modeling here on the rear sides of the SD70ACE engine I built. Much less parts involved. Mine are slightly skewed if you stare at them straight on.

I have never attempting making the window shades on the insides of my passenger cars. I think that alone would make me go crazy!

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I realized that after making the shades for the one stretched MTH smooth car, I should have used even thinner plastic, so if I ever make them again, I will use thinner plastic for the shades. I made the mold for the Superliner vent, so I will see how it came out tomorrow. Bob.

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Could you run thin metal through a crimper tool?   On the blinds I had success using tape that has the strings in it and taping on the inside of the window. Couple of thin strips served as the one part of the 'blinds'. UPdinerShellon.thumb.JPG.149b73647c9f81af7b6721a10227d243.JPG

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Bob, that is just regular packing tape you can get anywhere. The silver part is thin striping tape you put on first. Then put the tape over that and trim the sliver some if you need to.   Table top is a photo I reduced from a picture I took of our UP stuff we have collected. Glasses are plastic tubing.  Figures are those cheap ones you get on ebay. Repainted some of them, especially the hair, ALL the figures have black hair!

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Anyone have better drawings than I have?  My drawings came from the 1982 Model Train magazine, but doesn't give the lower  sheet metal angle of the side, as it angles in at the bottom.  I tried to get the angle from the drawing with a protractor and came up with 7 degrees.  Anyone have a better number?  I would appreciate it.  It seems that all of the measurements were on the drawing except that angle. Bob.

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No better answer from me. It almost seems like they change with the type or when they were made? Hard to tell unless you pick the exact prototype of each car. I think some models are overdone on the end curves. More slope on the long center bottom panels but still not much.

See the source image

See the source image

look how curved this model ends are

Image result for amtrak superliner cars end

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It looks like another trip to Sanford for measurements. I don't think that model is correct with the curved lower section.  I like the sign on the end of the car "Do not hump", while I really like building these cars, I can't see any situation that would cause me to do that. Bob.

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