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3D Printed 1:29 SD70Ace


DualRailTrail
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Been designing this on and off for a while, and recently bought a new 3D Printer with a larger build platform so im giving it a workout on this. Shown is a my first rough printed model which helped familiarize myself with the new printer and will also help me to realize any changes that need to be made before printing a final model. I will be using USA sd70 motor blocks to power this unit and will be controlling via DCS PS3. Printed in ABS at .2 mm layer height.

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7 minutes ago, enginear joe said:

Very nice! The cab fooled me in the other post's reply of yours.

Do you sell these?

I was thinking of possibly selling these once I finalize my design.

if you’d like more info I guess the best thing would be to go to my profile and message or email me. Thanks

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I'm in...that is if you'd consider selling me the .stl files perhaps??

 

Which brand printer did you buy?? I've been looking at the Creality CR-10s or whatever the newest model is. I sold off a cheap Reprap CTC i3A clone.

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2 hours ago, nscaler711 said:

Man if love to see one of those painted for KCS or BNSF.

 

 

 

Well if I can get serious over the next month and get a few made up, I’d like to see one in KCS paint too..

 

15 minutes ago, Chuck said:

I'm in...that is if you'd consider selling me the .stl files perhaps??

 

Which brand printer did you buy?? I've been looking at the Creality CR-10s or whatever the newest model is. I sold off a cheap Reprap CTC i3A clone.

No sale on files.. I’ve been asked that a few times on some of the other big builds I’ve done in the past..Hard to sell a great recipe after all the hard work that went into it.

 

I've had a few afinia h480s up until the new printer which is an UPBoxPlus, same as Afinia H800. 1350.00 right now vs 1500.00 H800.  Hard to beat and I’m loving its size and abilities. 

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Im looking at roughly 120 hrs of print time at.2 mm layer height then there’s post print cleanup, sanding and assembly of the many separate parts, not to mention materials. 450.00 would be a target price for an assembled body ready for electronics and prepaint prep.

2 hours ago, Jerry B44 said:

Looks good, nice to see how this area is expanding. Fun if engines are printed that no company makes.  Way the hobby is going, might be the only way to get anything.

Thanks Jerry, I feel the same. I’ve started printing my own cars and accessories. Sky is the limit now. 

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6 hours ago, rbrown7713 said:

Oh,Oh, looks like I will have to add another building method to my hobby.  That is fantastic and beautiful also.  I am amazed at the smoothness, good job.  Bob.

Thanks Bob, not lookin too bad. Still waiting on parts from USA to get the trucks mounted up. Will post more pics then. Thx again 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I don't know if you have thought of this method, but I was thinking that instead of building a part with your 3d printer, why not print a mold for your parts?  Let's say if you had just four molds, the urethane sets up in 4 hours, so four parts in four hours. Just a thought, Bob.

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On 1/14/2018 at 8:29 AM, rbrown7713 said:

I don't know if you have thought of this method, but I was thinking that instead of building a part with your 3d printer, why not print a mold for your parts?  Let's say if you had just four molds, the urethane sets up in 4 hours, so four parts in four hours. Just a thought, Bob.

 

Ive played around with some Smooth On products in the past, and your suggestion is a good idea. Will require some testing and see how it comes out. I think it will be difficult to not get bubbles in the cast with all the different angles..

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I don't use Smooth-On, I use BITY mold products and bubbles are possible, but nothing that can't be handled.  If you think that there would be a problem, then make the locomotive in sections and then glue them together.  I don't know if I made myself clear, I was talking about making the MOLD with a 3d printer and then make the part from the mold.  Or you could take your part and then make a urethane mold and then make your parts.  That is how I do it now, I just make urethane molds now, got away from hard molds, for the most part, but here is an F7 cab made from a urethane mold, and a heavyweight side both made with urethane molds. I just bought some truck parts made from a 3d printer and then from those parts, I will make a urethane mold.  This mold will be for the Superliner trucks.  My T1 loco shell was made, half was a hard mold and the other half was urethane. Bob.

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2 hours ago, rbrown7713 said:

I don't use Smooth-On, I use BITY mold products and bubbles are possible, but nothing that can't be handled.  If you think that there would be a problem, then make the locomotive in sections and then glue them together.  I don't know if I made myself clear, I was talking about making the MOLD with a 3d printer and then make the part from the mold.  Or you could take your part and then make a urethane mold and then make your parts.  That is how I do it now, I just make urethane molds now, got away from hard molds, for the most part, but here is an F7 cab made from a urethane mold, and a heavyweight side both made with urethane molds. I just bought some truck parts made from a 3d printer and then from those parts, I will make a urethane mold.  This mold will be for the Superliner trucks.  My T1 loco shell was made, half was a hard mold and the other half was urethane. Bob.

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Yeah I gotcha. I would probably make a flexible mold using the printed model, then cast from that.  Thanks for sharing. Will try to explore this when I get some free time.   Have you posted any “how to”s on your work? Looks very nice.

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