Screwy Nick Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 It was brought to my attention that I could combine my life long love of trains and my new found interest in Tug Boats. There is still an operating barge system between NY & NJ run by PRR. I am going about this in what could be considered reverse order as the barge will be built before the tug as it will be a scratch build, the tug is a kit, PRR. The scale of the tug was a serious consideration as I wanted to use the cars, track and possibly other things that I already have. So far I have what will be the deck with the track plan. Have small parts on order, hope to receive this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant-Kerr Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 This is going to be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Carmichael Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Hey Nick: Have you given any thought as to how the rails on the barge will connect to the rails on the dock? Wouldn't it have to be some sort of joiner that is temporary? I wonder if the real rail barges use something like a life size Split Jaw joiner? Do you know what they use? Will you have it floating on real water? sounds like a fun project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Carmichael Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Nick: I found this video/webpage that clearly shows the devices that align the barge with the rails. They are big steel pins that side forward from the dock and pass through hoops on the barge. It's a little hard to see clearly the place where the rails meet, but I don't think I see any rail joiners at all. But I do see wheel flange guiding rails on the inside of the main track rails on both the barge and the dock tracks. Since the barge rails must be at the same height as the dock rails guessing that the height of the barge can be adjusted by filling the barge hull with water (to lower) and pumping out water (to raise). see: https://untappedcities.com/2017/02/02/behind-the-scenes-at-the-floating-freight-rail-line-that-crosses-the-hudson-river-in-nyc/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 Grant, thank you for the encouragement. John, that is the exact one I am going to emulate. I did mis-speak in my first post. I was reminded that the PRR is long gone. I should have said it will be done in the 60's. The tug is named Jersey City with the PRR logo on the stack, and yes I also hope to make the connecters that are on the barge and do hope to float it. The track will be 'welded' to the steel deck without using the usual wooden ties. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 WOW I didn't see this coming ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 Sean, LOL Nick I was wondering when you finish this ....(you were referring to the Salvage Tug) ( if you do ) were you going to build a car float ,... so you car move some box cars... QUOTE First have to attach wood strips below where the individual rail be fixed. Then the whole thing will be primed with a sealer. John: I did see where on the NY side there is a crane like mechanism that actually lifts the end of the barge to the height of the pier. Only one side of the barge mates with the land, the other side has bumpers of sort to stop the cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Nick Will you be putting the blue insulation inside for flotation ? I would make a mockup to see what you need to make it float. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 I had only figured on sealing it up and relying the fact that it is made of wood, but the foam is a better idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 It also depends on how many screws you use .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 Sean, number of screws??? knowing me, I better use the foam to make sure it will float. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Carmichael Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Hi Nick: I think you're right about the crane for raising one end of the barge. At 58 seconds into the above Hudson river video there is a very clear but quick overhead shot of the barge/dock rail union. You need to pause the video to have enough time to study a still photo. There are clearly no rail joiners at the rail unions just before the cars pass over. The HO guys seem to have a lot more experience in building car floats than the large scale guys. (There are even model kits in Walther HO). On You Tube you can see lots of videos showing scratch and kit built ones. There also more videos of actual ones. Seems that most of the scratch built ones are made from plastic or styrofoam. See videos here: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=railroad+car+float Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 John: yes, 14 - 16 sec into the video are two very large wheels that have cables and lift the barge to meet the pier. thank you. Grant: love the deer, or Australian equivalent, munching the pop corn. did I see that correctly? LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant-Kerr Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 You saw correctly regarding the popcorn but I think the critter is an Antelope of some kind from Africa. No matter, it tickled my wacked out humour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 16, 2018 Author Share Posted April 16, 2018 Since I am using 1/4" underlay for decking I felt the need to add stringers below deck following the rail profile to give the nails a better bite and also secure the deck from flexing. A pic of a tie plate cut in half. I saw a pic of what looked like that welded to the deck with the rail secured to it. Made two track gauges from scrap wood, crude looking but non the less accurate. Making progress. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 I have made some progress in the build. Fashioned what looks like the bow of the one in the pic. Taking the advice I received here and also on another forum, filled the ballast area with foam, have enough left over to also install in the cars I intend to use, thank you for sharing that Jack. as I'd hate to loose 11 cars in an event. Planning on using Kilz as a primer sealer since it won't be in the water for more than one hour at a time, other suggestions welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 Got some great advice from someone who has already built and successfully sailed one. I believe that what I have so far is just too light and will probably bob like a cork on the water. I have added a skirt to the existing build. Instead of adding lead weight as advised I am planning on adding PVC pipe, plugged on one end and with a screw cap on the other so I can add or subtract sand so it rides in the water at the proper draft. Building a crude pond to test the buoyancy. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Kiddy pool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 This is what I am going to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 28, 2018 Author Share Posted April 28, 2018 Here is a shot of the barge in the yard. Basic assembly with a rough coat of rust resistant paint. It still needs a lot of work but spring duties will take precedence so progress may slow even more. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted April 28, 2018 Share Posted April 28, 2018 My scratch building in the spring also goes into slow motion. There's too much else to do. Like a switch being thrown, it will be too hot to do some things. Then, we can go back inside and fiddle some more. Just set your goals and keep the ship pointed towards the goal. Soon we will be back raking leaves and preparing for the snow. So enjoy!!! Oh, and nice work BTW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 Joe, you are spot on. Previous owners removed almost all the trees in the yard, so it gets unbearably hot during the summer days. Morning and evenings are great for running trains. Lower level of the house is below ground so nice and cool on those hot summer days, that's where the hobby rooms are. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 As I had previously mentioned it looked like the tie plates were welded to the deck and the rails attached to them. To achieve the appearance of that I split each 4 hole tie plate and am individually spiking each to the rail and deck. I also dismantled a standard Aristo turnout and am using it as the rails are already machined to allow the fit of the moved rails. Individual spiking of rail is a new and learning experience for me. What you see is a few hours of trial and error. I will appreciate advice from those that have already done this. Thank You. EDIT: finding that my Al rail is slightly twisted, so I had to remove it and force it the other way, it is now straight. Thinking of using nails with larger heads, color won't matter as it's all going to be painted. LiG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 Great progress ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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