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PRR Harbor Tug


Screwy Nick
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  I took the advice I got on another forum, painted the whole hull the prime or below water line color, then painted the black above the water line color. Was advised that if the hull rubbed into something and the black came off the prime would show through.  WELL, after I painted the black I used 2500 wet/dry paper to blend at the dividing line.  I got a bit over zealous and went through the black in a couple of tiny places, the red shows through.  Going to leave it like that, adds a little character.  Now do dull coat.  LiG

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The dull coat did a job in a couple of areas on the hull. Port bow and starboard stern. Paint and Matt clear coat are the same brand, the black is the newest coating an it wasn't effected at all. Had this happen once before years ago but not since learning to wait. Any idea's why?? LiG

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   I called the HELP line on the can, was advised "that shouldn't have happened".  I sprayed some scrap plastic, will let it cure and do some fooling around to see if I can find out what I did wrong.    LiG

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  Sean, yes only the red, and it had cured about 6 days longer than the black..  I already sanded it down, then wet sanded to get it smooth and re-applied the red.  Also applied some red to scraps of plastic, all labeled and now cured.  Today I will spray different pieces with a couple of different dull coat products, including the one I used, and in different coverages.  Hope to figure out what I did wrong. 

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If all else fails, I mean using clearcoat, use polyurethane red and black paint, laying it on thick for the last coat and then wet sanding the orange peal out with 1000 sandpaper, and then polishing it with compound.  You end up with a flat shiny surface and without having to worry about compatible paints.  Just a thought. Bob.

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  Bob, thank you very much for sharing your long time experience with us.  I tried two different brands, R and K.   My bottom line, the R Matte Clear coat is very aggressive on the K product, but not in reverse, Valspar seemed to respect both.  For my boat I used only the R product and their own clear coat attacked it.  Manufacturer said it shouldn't have happened, and it didn't on other colors,  the can I used was emptied and had been disposed of.  Have gotten a few bad ones from R.  One only had propellent and a couple had very little pigment mostly solvent.  I have very little experience with the K product, mostly for this test, so can't comment on their QC.  One thing for sure, I henceforth will take the advice on the can and try the product on scraps before committing to a project that I have already spent many hours, lesson learned the hard way.      LiG

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This happened to me with using the type of clear coat that you press a button on the can and it mixes the hardener.  I painted a deck lid on a Mercedes.  Painted it black and without sanding, I sprayed it with the clearcoat and it came out perfect.  So far so good.  I then tried the same thing on the hood, but the difference was that I sanded the hood, therefore sanding off the sheen on the entire surface and the next day I looked at it, and the same thing happened to the surface that you had on the hull, it krinkled.  I don't know if that was the difference, but that is what happened.  Bob.

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  Bob, yes, sometimes things happen that just don't make sense, would have thought that sanding would have made a smooth finish easier. 

Jerry, as mentioned I didn't mix brands on the hull, (the store that carries the R brand is much closer than the one that carries K so that is what I usually use) but did on the scraps and the results seemed odd as how one would attack another but not in reverse?  And wondering what was wrong with the can that I did use. In this case wish the trash pick up wasn't so prompt     

    I did put a finish coat on, out of fear I used the more tame Valspar.  

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