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USAT Hudson - Battery/RC

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I'm lucky enough to have just got one of these that looks (and weighs) great. It looks to be a low-mileage early model with its Phoenix 2k2 card and manual dated 2002. Are there any other identifiers as to which version/run it is? Or even a hidden serial number?


We're all Battery/RC and I'm looking for your experiences of converting this loco please. With previous (mainly Aristo) loco conversions I have ripped everything out and started over with all the controls in the tender. That might be very foolish with this one, where nearly everything is already built into the loco and tender. How much of the existing wiring can I retain?


Specific questions:

  • Battery voltage to haul 7 HWs at a brisk but not reckless pace up to 2.5% gradient?
  • Physical location of main switch and charge socket, assuming batteries end up in the tender
  • If USAT don't provide a wiring diagram, does anyone have pin-outs for the six-pin connector cable - please?


Thanks in advance


Mike in UK

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Hi there,


I'm not sure how to identify certain production runs.


Haven't converted any of these to battery power but with how slow these are stock I would be using a battery voltage as high as your control electronics will allow.  Battery voltage affects top speed.  For the Hudson I would be getting a good size(ie Mah capacity) battery.


I would retain all existing wiring and isolate the track power pickups as is standard practice.


I've never seen a wiring diagram on the engines and have just used a voltmeter to determine what the pinouts are.  Since you are in the tender this will be straight forward.  (Two are track power pickups, 2 are for marker lights and the other 2 are for reverse/backup light as I recall).  While you could get a pin out from someone, you are better off doing this yourself just in case there has been some sort of change.  If they change the wiring pin-outs and you rely on what someone else tells you they are, you'll end up blowing something up.  If you blow something up you will then be spending 10x more time trying to fix and procure replacement parts than if you had just confirmed everything with your voltmeter.




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