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Mason Bogie kit bash

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Moving along at a snails pace the Mason Bogie is taking shape. Finally got everything fitted, what a pain, being as I'm not a master builder I adjust as I go along. Funny after fitting 1 piece and going to another when rechecking now the first piece is off a little more readjustments and so it went, on and on but finally everything is now fitting. Next is fitting the headlight and making the bell bracket and mounting, always touch up paint and the motor chassis has to be re assembled but the tunnel is getting shorter, more as it progresses  

MB painted, fitted, with cars.JPG

MB painted, fitted with cars at angle.JPG

MB running boards.JPG

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Since last post I have got the headlight done and mounted + got the side gear in place except for the reversing bar but moving right along, ordered the Gscale graphics rail boss 4 and a charging (door way) board and still looking at mounting the batteries in the boiler, more to come, Bill

MB with new head light and running gear.JPG

MB with new head light.JPG

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More progress on the Mason Bogie, got the boiler handrails done and piping for the sand dome and was done with 1/16" brass wire, reused the stanchions from the original Lionel 0-6-0 and was going to purchase 2 more to put 3 on each side but after reviewing the shipping cost I decided on 2 on each side. Received my G scale graphics R?C system and am looking forward to getting it install but first will have to make some more detail parts like the bell and the firebox but at least it is starting to look like something, more to follow.

MB boiler detail with cars.JPG

MB boiler with detail side shot.JPG

MB boiler with detail front end shot.JPG

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   While still looking for the misplaced bell I have gotten most of the shifter mechanism done still in styrene white but as soon as it dries up around here it will get some paint. Left to do on it is designing the vertical lift bar that runs between the shift leaver at the top and the side drive bar on the chassis. Am considering using round cord elastic that would give with the turning and side rod movements, got to get it on the rollers and see how much everything moves,

MB firebox cover.JPG

MB bell support.JPG

MB shifter in white.JPG

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   Update to the Mason Bogie bash, tested the operation of the reversing bar in relation ship to the reversing shaft at the bell housing and found very little up/down movement and very little front to rear, most of the movement comes when the engine is in a turn and that seems to more or less just flex with the turn. Not having the patience or tools necessary to machine parts for the vertical lifting bar I settled on elastic black cord and small crimp on fittings from Hobby Lobby to simulate the steel lifting rod and it seems to preform very well. The cord is stretched just enough to make it look straight and it puts up well with both side rod and turning applications. Both ends are secured with 2/56 Allen head screws which allow the grips to move freely and still looking for the bell, train show in a week might find one there. Being as the reversing shaft is free to move the shifting bar that runs from the cab interior to the long bar from the shifting shaft will be secured to the rear section of the boiler just before the cab in order to keep tension on the cord. Pleased with the out come so far and as with everything on this project it comes apart with 2/56 screws, just a lot of screws. At the moment I'm gathering parts to build a flickering fire box which I have built several and look really neat at night. So next step is getting into the wiring of headlight, smoke unit along with R/C and battery, more to come, Bill 

MB reversing shaft and lifting bar from side.JPG

MB reversing shift and lifting bar front.JPG

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Still working on the mason bogie, got the port side piping done and the reverse linkage secure, and on the starboard side I got the reach rod installed to the shifting linkage it is secured to the side of the engine in the black part of the firebox and does not enter into the cab,  all the piping and grab rails move forward to remove themselves from the cab this way I can remove the boiler, cab or chassis for repair. Everything is built with styrene except for the bolts which are 2/56 black hex bolts. Next on the list is the sand dome activation bar and pull rod. Trying to figure what to use for builders plates, might try printing them with my silhouette. More to follow, Bill  

MB port side steam pipe.JPG

MB shift leaver.JPG

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Thanks to Screwy Nick my Misplaced Bell problem has been solved, thanks Nick, now all the remains on the top of the boiler is making a lever and control rod for the sand dome

MB bell from LF side.JPG

MB bell from RF.JPG

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Since my last post I have accomplished quite a bit, dulled up the bell and added twisted copper wire for the bell rope, took 2 tries as the fires one the wire gauge was too small but finally got it right. Was able to make builders plates and with a suggestion from a member on MLS I utilized decal paper and printed the plates on that, then put the decals on brass sheet and seal with a heated laminator which protected as well as gave it a little bit of thickness. I have been researching batteries and types and with the help of several on LSC have selected Lipo, reason being as hobby shops are far and few between in Daytona Beach, Fl. but one that has been around for several years and even thru the downtown street redo is High Fly Hobbies. Primarily an R/C plane and car dealer but they have been more than helpful with my small purchases of styrene, brass wire, and paints and I valued their knowledge and that they are local dealer that I can return to if I have questions or problems. Was able to find a battery that along with the Gscalegraphics control board, fits nicely into the tender section of the engine with room left over for their, GSG's, sound board, I also purchase a alarm to prevent from over discharging the battery which I understand is the down fall of Lipo.  Have hooked up the speed control and tested and all I can say is there isn't any thing much easer, worked great. The only thing left is to complete the wiring of the R/C system, front headlight, smoke unit and want to put a flickering led's in the fire box, thanks to all with the help and suggestions, more to come, Bill    

MB builders plate installed.JPG

MB new bell rope.JPG

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   Not a lot done but it's something I have been working on for a while now, numbering the engine. Time spent trying to select a number and how to do it, I settled on year built, which I have done before, and but still having problems on how. I usually use a silhouette machine to do lettering but the vinyl does like irregularities especially rivets. The vinyl is flexible but not to the size of the head if a pin, so I thought about spray painting but need a template that would adhere to the surface including rivets. After some research I settled on stencil paper for my machine. First try was great, not only does the stencil paper stay in place, doesn't fold over it's self, but is pretty sticky and weeds well. Still didn't sit down the best on the rivets but was acceptable to the point that over sprays could be dealt with after the fact with a small brush and back ground paint. But then with a brain storm I thought if the stencil was more flexible maybe it would contour better. 15 minutes in the sun seemed about right and firm pressure with my thumb on the stencil was all it took, only a couple of spots that paint crept under the stencil but not bad. Now it's not the engine anymore now it's #"19" Again pleased with the results and now working on hiding the wiring for the engine from front to rear. More to come, Bill    

MB numbered.JPG

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Still working on numbering, got the smoke box plate numbered along with the sand dome, added some Jax pewter black to the bell rope and have made a plate for the center of the cab where I can run my wiring, sort of like a tunnel and is removable using magnetic tape so removal is easy. Have gotten the R/C board along with battery and charging board fitted in the tender section and might have room to place a sound board in there also, pretty small space. If I can do it I will place the speaker in the roof of the cab as I have used this location before with good results, more to come, Bill

MB engine all numbered.JPG

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Well with the MIK challenge finished I think it's time to turn my attention back to unfinished projects, still on the burners is "old Joe" and my Mason Bogie. Before the MIK I was able to temporally install the R/C system which I'm using a gscale graphics unit, took it to a friends house who has a standup railroad and ran it, wow was I pleased it ran perfectly and the articulation worked better than I hoped, even negotiated 1100 S curves and switches, only down side was 1 turn it showed a little wheel slippage but think it was because of un even track and tight curve but I've added additional weight any ways, also looking for another traction tire wheel for the other side. Have managed to cram all the electronics into the tender area and left now is just cleaning up the wiring, after Old Joe is finished, Just headlight wiring to do, I think I will paint up a combine car for the Mason and that will give me a 3 car train and with the engine being 2' long that's going to be enough, More to come, Bill   
1396939082_MBcomplete2.thumb.jpg.6068fa14638c978ee5aa41655b52e2b2.jpg

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With the combine car finished and only minor detail to complete the build I thought it would be a good idea to see if it ran, had test run it on a set of rollers and it preformed fine but hadn't seen any track time or curves yet and was anxious to see if the articulation design that I had com up with worked. So with 3 cars and the mason bogie and freshly charged battery  in toe I journeyed to a near by friends house to give it a try. Jimmy had just completed his outdoor layout and still has no battery powered engines and wanted to test his design so it was a win win for both of us. Train along with his layout ran flawlessly in a clock wise direction and after several circuits decided to run the opposite direction and that is when we found a problem. In a short section Just before his bridge he had snuck in a short piece of 1100 track, about 4" long and my engine didn't like it, seems like the rear bogie was built too tight for the brand wheels that i used and there was no slop in the truck left to right causing the front wheel of the 3 axle bogie to want to rid up the rail and derail the truck. Really have no Idea why it only affected the engine i 1 direction and not the other and will have to look into that at a later date. Haven't returned with what I believe will be the cure, different wheels that are loose in the truck, but just pushing it around can tell that it no longers binds. All and all very fun time for both of us, Bill view 

 

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