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A-1-A Shark


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Chuck, they are made of a bigger stock than I would have liked. Unfortunately my supply of brass is running low and the hobby shop I go to has stopped re-stocking brass shapes as they don't sell.  On the good side, if there is a wreck it is unlikely they will break.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been looking for a Tuscan Red paint that will be as close as possible to the USAT and Aristocraft cars I've had for years.  Even the newer USAT Tuscan parts are more red than the older Tuscan.  Seems there are many Tuscan Red's.  FINALLY found what I am looking for. In case there are any other PRR fans looking for that color, Tru Color TCP276-2. PRR 1948 Pass. Car Tuscan. This stock number is for air brush use, I was told they also make brush-able paints.   

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  • 1 month later...

Tuscan Red:  I received the Trucolor 1948 Tuscan Red.  While it probably is what the color was in 1948, (last pic) it wasn't the color I wanted.  I started mixing Box Car Brown with it little at a time to darken it.  Also attached are 2 pics of the result compared to an old bottle of Floquil, the color I wanted.  If you look carefully to the left of the bottle, can see the brown gradually added.  

      First pic is with room lighting and the second is full sunlight.   I want to thank Chuck for his advice on mixing and thinning the Tru to work with my old Badger.  After the air tank is recharged and brought to room temp going to paint the baby shark.  And also taking Chucks advice I ordered some retarder to slow the drying so I can coat the whole big shark without having the paint where I first started drying.  NOTE: the color is still not as dark as my older USAT equip. 

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Chuck, thank you.  Not really satisfied, I mixed the last of the brown on hand and sprayed the baby.  NOW THATS TUSCAN RED.  I have to spray it again as it was pulsating and isn't as smooth as I would like.  I think I need more thinner????????   Pressure is 32,  your thoughts please??

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Sean thank you.  I couldn't even feel the rough, and when I hit it with even 1000 grit I didn't like the effect and didn't go any further.  I found an air leak that was causing the pulsing of the paint.  I also lowered the pressure to 23 lbs.  Once that was done the paint went on nice and even.  My next order has retarder included.  Will take pic once I dare touch it.  

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A post on another forum made me realize I was missing details.  So far have only done the hand rails and grab irons on one side of the baby Shark, it is my test bed.  The handrails near the doors can be removed so as not to interfere with the application of the decals. Can see where I filled a gouge when the drill slipped. The next coat of paint will cover everything.  

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Painting is finished and I started to apply the decals.  I messed up, no surprise there.  When I ordered the decals from Stan I didn't mention I was building the PRR A-1-A Shark and the model is just short of 3 ft long.  So I ran out of 5 stripes.  

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For those that scratch build or kit bash, Stan Cedarleaf also produces a sheet of decals for what I'll call Super Detailing, like Fire Extinguisher, Sand Fill, Emergency Fuel Shut off etc. They are coming with my additional 5 stripes.

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Yea, big fan of the PRR.    The GG1 is my favorite American loco, most likely because I saw so many of them as a kid.  If I were more west and saw the BB's they no doubt would be my fav. Love all the motion involved in their movement.  

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The rear coupler was just held with a screw and spun to location at it's leisure.  Since I was using a Bachmann self centering coupler I just needed to make a box to mount it.  Being the hack I am used scraps found on a hobby bench.  

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