rbrown7713 Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 Here are some pictures and sequence of removing screws and bolts from the FAM T1. The motors are huge and chain driven. Both motors have independent chug pickups. Two speakers, and an electronic module. Here is the sequence of removing screws. Some took a little time to locate, but nothing that took magic. Lead truck-1 screw. After truck removal, exposed two more screws. 2 screws removed in front, 4 hex bolts removed on FAM name plate cover and exposed 2 mount screws. 2 screws removed from trailing truck. 2 hex bolts removed rear main wheel brake levers. 2 very small brass wires must be bent to removed so that the trailing truck can be removed. Remove 2 rear mount screws. I could have missed something, but nothing that can't be found with a little looking. I imagine that the other FAM locos are about the same procedure. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 Thank you for sharing the photos and information. About how long would you say it took to figure out and get it apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 11, 2020 Author Share Posted August 11, 2020 I might be a little off in keeping track of time, but I would estimate about 1 1/2 hours. Maybe 2. But, I am slow. I have some track rollers coming to be able to run this thing to hear how good the sound is and if it is good, which I doubt, maybe I won't have to install new electronics. Thanks, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted August 12, 2020 Share Posted August 12, 2020 What a beast ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 12, 2020 Author Share Posted August 12, 2020 Yes it is. Boy, put some rubber traction bands on the wheels and it would pull the house down. The triggers for the chuffs is quite a sight. They have four machined orientation lobes on each motored axle, and the motors are in parallel. So, It picks up chuggs from each set of piston action. I wonder, if I use DCS, could I feed two sensors to the electronics in the MTH sound card? That might be a question for Ray.. The MTH sound set for the T1 might already have taken that into consideration for the T1. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 Wow! Superb detail and looks like the poppet valve version...very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 Steady, ..... Steady! As far as I know of, one MTH PS board can only take one input (tach). There are/were several special releases so that might not be true? Ray would know I bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 27, 2020 Author Share Posted August 27, 2020 I was speaking of the Dallee electronics with two pickups. The mth sound board and the file for the T1 doesn't need two pickups as the chuff sounds with one tach pickup emulates the two different chuffs for the T1. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 I wonder, if I use DCS, could I feed two sensors to the electronics in the MTH sound card? or I was speaking of the Dallee electronics with two pickups I am confused? Doesn't take much ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted August 28, 2020 Author Share Posted August 28, 2020 The dcs sound file for the T1 emulates the sound for two sets of cylinder chuffs with only one sensor, so no need for two sensors. I don't know what the sound would sound like with input of two sensors, probably a bunch of garble, that's my guess. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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