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Grills for scratchbuilt E8 locomotives


rbrown7713
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I think it's gonna look fine! Like you said a bit of filling and sanding then all painted up will be a beautiful consist esp. if you go ABBA or more!

A tool & die guy told me years ago that they make everything with a slight taper when it comes to the plastic injection molds...that way the parts pop right out when the mold seperates and pins push out whatever was made. Just maybe they made the master to perfect as in being square?? Just a thought.

 

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Plastic injection molds are of high strength steel and so the relief that you are talking about is needed, if a one piece mold, so that it can come out of the mold.  If you have a part that is at right angles, or protruding parts, then the mold must be made of two or more parts for part removal.  I don't need relief angles when making my molds because the molds are pliable.   I used hard molds in the past until I discovered urethane and silicone.    I don't use hard molds much anymore, so the part can either be removed by bending the mold, or with difficult parts then, two or more parts are necessary for easy removal.  The E8 mold was designed straight, no relief, because the sides and rear are at right angles by design and so that the parts would come out straight and come out that way for the making of many stable parts.  The mold has to be housed in the wood box to make that happen. Speaking of molds, I have to order some more silicone because I keep finding parts that have to be made. Bob.

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Both pieces gets the saw and squared.  I think that I can just pour one half of the mold for the new piece, otherwise I would have to cut it each time that I make a new part. I am also going to take care of the uneven roof. Bob.

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I will know when finished, but I chose  to follow the layout of the  frame and where the original holes were, and the position of the skirts and ends,  but it will be very close to full scale 1 foot shorter. Bob.

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I just checked my book and while I don't have the measurements for the E8, truck center to center, I do have the E7 measurements and it is 43 ft., 16.125" and is the same for my model E8 A and B.  So, the scale of my E8 A and B is correct. Bob.

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Thanks Chuck.  That appears to be from the same book that I have.  I have confirmed that the truck centers is 43 feet and that those measurements are the same for the A and B, that is what I needed to know.  Bob.

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I thought that I would share this method of filling off axles to allow the bearings to fit.  In the past, I would turn them down on my lathe, but too much trouble and I also was worried about clamping the wheels in the chuck, making marks on them.  So, it was easier for me to just chuck the axles up in a drill and file the axles down to make them fit.  Bob.

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You Guys are amazing.  Chuck, I have been following your Metro F40PH Project for some time.  I have two F40PH Locomotives and a couple of extra body shells that I plan to paint in Alaska RR Blue & Yellow paint scheme.  I recently purchased a couple Garich E-8 kits on e-bay from a guy named Chuck.   (It is getting to be a small world)  My plans are to paint them in FRISCO colors.  This should be a simple scheme with only one color involved.  First, I would be interested in horizonal Grills, as in photo.  I am sure that I will have more questions as I get into building the models.  Thanks for all of your good work.  Rex

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9 hours ago, Chuck said:

Hi Rex and yes those E8's will look great in the Frisco paint! 

 

Contact Bob Brown as he's the guy with all the E8 parts.

 

Alaska F40's...I never seen those before, pretty nice! 

Chuck,  Here are some more F40PH Locomotives that you may have not seen.  I saw the Music City Star in Nashville, every day, when I lived there.  I did model them in HO several years ago.  

 

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