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Marklin Track


Chuck
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I've been eyeing up Marklin track for my indoor layout as it's more in-scale to 1:32 as I believe that it's code 200?? 

 

But what type is it? I mean I see on eBay what looks and is described as extruded solid stainless steel construction but then the next listing describes it as being hollow or made like Lionel tubular track? Marklins' website isn't much help but does show quite an assortment of switches like straight, curved, slip, 3-way, pre-made crossover etc. 

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I think you are right about code 200 (5 mm = code 197). If you have MTH wheels, they can't run on them. The Marklin tracks I had were solid. Many of the turnouts and crossings came from Hubner when Marklin aquired them. So did the wide radii curves.

Bjorn

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I agree. The Marklin tracks look nice. I don’t know what code the MTH wheels require but MTH or someone in this forum will know. I include a picture of MTH on LGB and Marklin on Marklin/Hubner.

Bjorn

post-69-0-50622100-1392982757_thumb.jpg

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The picture is from 2007 and the switches in the picture are med by Hubner. They were not mine and I think something had to be done with them to get the plus and minus right when switching. No match for the owner as I understood. Maybe that was just for the crossing. No problems with the trains we were using at the time. However, I have had problems with the R5 LGB turnouts (#18050, 18150) and MTH power pickup shoes. Some of them sink down and might get caught in the fairly long and wide hole where the rails cross.


 


Bjorn

post-69-0-89311900-1393155167_thumb.jpg

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I use code 250 rail by SVRR and my MTH trains and all other trains run fine on it. LLagas creek has some code 215, maybe Micro Engineering does also, but not sure how you would do with it. Could order a strip and see what you think.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have Marklin one gauge tracks on my garden layout and the MTH stuff runs very well on it, but i think the problems are with older stuff, i have a F7 loco and a VO-1000 who works great on Marklin tracks, same with the hopper cars, but i had to take down the flanges on my boxcars, but it was easy to do, abot 30 minutes of work:-)

Trygve

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Bare hyggelig Bjorn!

I think only the newest Stuff works on Marklin tracks like VO-1000, F7, the Triplex and maybe GG-1 older locos may be a problem.

On Cars it is easy to take down the flanges or change the wheels!

Trygve

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I've been eyeing up Marklin track for my indoor layout as it's more in-scale to 1:32 as I believe that it's code 200?? 

 

But what type is it? I mean I see on eBay what looks and is described as extruded solid stainless steel construction but then the next listing describes it as being hollow or made like Lionel tubular track? Marklins' website isn't much help but does show quite an assortment of switches like straight, curved, slip, 3-way, pre-made crossover etc. 

 

Märklin track - except for possibly very old track - is solid material.

Newer track is most likely nickel silver, which has nothing to do with silver, but is a copper/nickel/zinc alloy with possible small amount of lead or other nasty stuff.

 

Now that Märklin has finally started re-issuing the old Hübner turnouts, you can get decent 10 degree turnouts that look nice. They work well also.

However, if you have the space, take a look at Peco, which is much nicer, and if you are feeling very very rich and have lots and lots of space at your disposal, check out Hegob.

 

Best regards

Jens

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  • 3 weeks later...
 

Thank´s Chuck!

I was thinking about Sunset valley too, but to ship it from the states to Norway make it expensive, and i already run Marklin in H0 so i have

good relation to my Marklin dealer, and the garden railway started with a Marklin set with a blue diesel and 2 cars!

Trygve

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  • 4 months later...

I only use a very short peice of marklin track which is actually inside my indoor terminal, I would say it's between code 200 and code 215 it is the same height as the Tenmille track so you could use both together although the tie height wouldn't be identical. I find that the old MTH has trouble hitting (very slightly) the  rail fixing (not the ties) it is very nice reproduction of German track (Swiss, Austrian and Belgian is same); it is solid stainless steel.

Oldis say before and including the GG1. My F3 hits the spikes a bit,so would have my GG1 but I returned the flanges on it so it is not a problem any longer, the VO 1000 and the PA 1 both run perfectly well on it. the ties are black treaded against UV and are scale size and closely spaced (at least from the European standpoint) so closer to US track.

Simon

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  • 2 months later...

Märklin track - except for possibly very old track - is solid material.

Newer track is most likely nickel silver, which has nothing to do with silver, but is a copper/nickel/zinc alloy with possible small amount of lead or other nasty stuff.

 

Now that Märklin has finally started re-issuing the old Hübner turnouts, you can get decent 10 degree turnouts that look nice. They work well also.

However, if you have the space, take a look at Peco, which is much nicer, and if you are feeling very very rich and have lots and lots of space at your disposal, check out Hegob.

 

Best regards

Jens

Do you happen to know of anyone who sells hegob track that may ship to US? Or of any US dealers? 

 

Mike

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  • 1 month later...

Oops, missed this question.

 

No, unfortunately I don't know anyone shipping Hegob to the US.

You could try contacting Easygleis in Germany. They are MTH dealers, and I first noticed MTH in their booth at the Sinsheim fair a couple of years ago. Hegob is also present at the Sinsheim fair and they're both German and yada yada yada. You get the picture.

 

Raising the bar for the longest turnout, check out the EW190 turnouts by MSM from Austria.

5938 mm (= 233 inches) radius for the deviating track. How about that?

 

B) Jens

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