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Paint removal


Bart
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Bart, scalecoat rinse away will remove it in big sheets. 12 to 24 hours soaking, and it just floats off doing no damage to MTH shells. You can use the product over and over again. Just run it through a coffee filter as you pour it back in the bottle. Scalecoat rinse away is sold by most hobbyshops. Larry

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  • 3 weeks later...
 
 
 

After the second dunk, rinse and a little scrubbing.  No visible damage to the plastic except where i may have been too aggressive with the abrasive sponge.

 

Soaking the other side now.

 

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The pan is #85014 Fiberglass Nesting Box from US Plastics.  Pricey but perfect.  One bottle of Scalecoat just covered the bottom ribs enough to immerse the car body sidewall.  Its a long shot for a beginner but I'm hoping to end up with a baggage/RPO car for my MTH Northern Pacific passenger train.  Here is the color goal:

 

 

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  • 5 months later...
 

Oh no.. that's not my work.  My goal is to make something that won't look too out of place next to it.  My other expensive and time consuming summer hobby (an old sailboat) has dominated my time this season.  I'll be looking for more advice when I do get back to it.

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I just googled for info on this product...

there are other model railroad forums that discuss "scalecoat rinse away"..

but the actual product seems to be called "scalecoat wash away"..

although perhaps there are both?

 

Bart, did you use "rinse away" or "wash away"?

 

Scot

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I'm curious why folks try to remove paint.  I used some super fine sand paper to remove lettering and high ridge paint lines, and then put on new primer and had at it.  Actually, I don;t even use primer, I use aluminum spray paint.  Sticks to everything and dries fast.  New paint sticks to it well.  Just my experience.

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Here's my "two cents worth" on why I remove the MTH paint. They put so much paint on the model that it covers up all the small detail. When I stripped my first F-7A, I was shocked to find some of the best detail I had ever seen on a plastic model. They must have paid a ton of money for that tooling, only to be covered up with several coats of really thick paint. After you remove the factory paint and airbush a thin coat of whatever paint you use, you have a model that has tons of correct detail you can not find anywhere else. Most plastic models of any scale, do not even come close to the detail on the MTH models. The caboose is another example of a really fine model covered up by tons of paint.

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  • 2 weeks later...

4 - 8 hour soak in 91% Isopropyl alcohol (from Wal-Mart) will safely remove MTH paint. I also use an old electric toothbrush to help scrub away soft paint that's around the details and in the nooks/ crannies. For a soaking container I use a Tupperware like plastic breadbox that way can cover it to help keep the evaporation rate down. Once I'm done I filter the alcohol and store it in the original container. Nice thing about alcohol is it won't harm your skin.

 

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MTH boxcar

 

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MTH caboose

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
 
 

Chris,

 

That's a good question and I don't have an answer. Some of that alcohol is over 3 years old and on it's 8th car stripping. When I'm done I strain it thru a paint strainer and it goes back into the original bottles. When in storage any sludge that made it thru the strainer settles to the bottom. Next time I use it I pour it slowly thru a coffee filter and leave the sludge in the bottom of the bottle and then rinse it out with water. I also burn wood in the winter months in the garage and use any real dirty alcohol to help start morning fires..so I'm always adding "fresh" alcohol to the mix when I go back to stripping.

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