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USAT Alco S4 Conversion To MTH PS3


Chuck
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Starting another conversion this time a USA Trains Alco S4 switcher to full blown MTH ProtoSounds 3 that will include smoke and operating ProtoCouplers.

 

Here's the engine I'm using...

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Tore down the motor truck for flywheeling. I'll tear down the other truck to service it. Oil motor and clean out old grease and repack with new grease.

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I seen this and it's kinda odd as one axle bushing in sideframes is wore out. Lower frame right side. The others are like new.

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Closeup of bad bushing...

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Wheels, gears and sliders show very minimal wear. Even the axle wire wipers aren't grooved and they're the first things to wear out.

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After removing bushing seen it's worn clear thru.

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Luckily I have extras that I removed from various projects over the years. I checked McMaster-Carr and they didn't really have anything that was a direct replacement.

Bad thing is the original bushings are "beaded" or rolled over like a rivet on mounting block backside. Removing them destroys the flared over bead and that's what retains the bushing.

What I did was try and "stake" the bore with a small center punch made out of an awl. That will "raise" the diameter a bit sort of like knurling a shaft and help retain the bushing. I also cleaned bore and bushing then applied Gorilla super glue gel in the blue cap bottle then press bushing in...it will be fine.

 

Here can sort of see how I staked the bore in 4 spots approx. every 90 deg. We used to do the same thing when repairing heavy equipment to keep bearings or bushings from rotating in the bores. Only thing is tools were bigger and used Loctite bearing retainer. My favorite was Quick Metal 660. You could take a big say 12" diameter ball bearing that would slide in it's bore, apply 660 to it, reassemble and after a few hours those babies were tight. Would take a 20 ton hydraulic puller to remove same bearing.

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Different view...

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All assembled and ready for service!

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Should note why I think that bushing prematurely work out..well lack of lubrication for one duh. What I remember is when these S4's came out, USA Trains/ Charles Ro noticed that most all the axle gears were split and held up shipping until replacement axle assemblies were manufactured with a revised axle knurl or different gear bore whatever. Then they swapped out all axles before shipping so maybe this one axle end and bushing was put together dry??

 

Moral...keep your axles and gears lubed up. Also dab some grease or oil on the bolster tops of everything as I've seen those areas be about worn out on some engines and cars. 

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You also have to make sure the axle sits in the bushing ..I've seen them still work with the axle at an angle ... It's how the plastic piece in the top left corner seems...strong or week ..I've had to replace a couple because that piece was week and couldn't hold the side frames tight.

 

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Sean, You may be onto something there as that truck "rocks" when assembled. Like one wheel is sitting higher than the rest which is almost impossible when you think about it. Unless the truck case is deformed or that "bolster" piece you speak of is bad. I'll dig into that problem this evening.

 

Well you're correct as when swap bolsters around from truck to truck the rocking follows. So just ordered a replacement pair from Charles Ro!  :Slightly_Smiling_Face_Emoji(24x24)::Thumbs_Up_Hand_Sign_Emoji_large(24x24):

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They should revise most all of them and fabricate them out of metal like the SD70's as would help a bit by adding little more weight. When these S4's came out I had a pair in CP paint and those were fine...nice loco's!

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This drive is flywheeled.

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Add some .040 styrene to top and bottom of case to makes a splash shield to keep gear grease off flywheel.

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Can sorta see how those 2 simple pieces work to form a kind of enclosure to keep flywheel stripes clean of grease.

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Both drives serviced with fresh Lucas Red-N-Tacky grease on gears and moly grease on axles, bushings and wipers. 

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Move onto the chassis to prep for mounting decoder.

Ugh...Looks like previous owner had a trailing sound car and was powering it off the power board in engine. Wires were routed thru chassis and fuel tanks then hard glued to chassis then out thru a rear step. 

They used some damn hard glue...why I don't know. Hot glue or silicone works just fine and is easily removeable.

What a mess...

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But to retain the long side handrails they smeared silicone onto the stanchions where they enter the chassis...some people shouldn't be near trains. 

Here's how I mount handrails. If they're way too tight for the holes because of paint buildup then drill out the holes a few thousands. If the stanchions mount with a square hole and they're tight then file a little paint off. If Handrails are too loose then apply a little paint to the ends as that will build them up. I seen a you tube video where a guy took a hammer on some SD70 handrails and pounded them into the cab...good luck at ever opening that engine up for work.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well finally finished this project up!

All I have left to do is install new replacement footboards and need to mold and cast a few detail parts.

What I can't figure out is why the prior owner felt they needed to use silicone to fasten the side handrails? Once I cleaned off all the silicone from stanchions and holes everything fit just fine.

 

Sorry for shaky video as holding smartphone in one hand and operating the DCS remote in other hand gets a bit awkward. :huh: 

 

 

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Hello Chuck, the sound is slightly different from the V0 1000. The engine turns up even when driving slowly, which sounds very good. The clutches are further inside, that looks better, nice project.

Thank you

Jan

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Another great conversation by Chuck.  I especially liked the remote uncoupling.  I remember watching switching in the Elizabeth Yards.  If I remember correctly, the switchers had to hold them selves with the brakes, as they developed enough current to move them at idle.  I don't remember seeing the lights alternate from fwd to rev, I thought they were on all the time, never noticed.  Keep up the GREAT work. 

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Jan, Yes sometimes have to be creative to figure how to mount those couplers close. :Slightly_Smiling_Face_Emoji(24x24):

 

Nick, We've tried telling MTH that with switchers both lights should be on during yardwork but fell on deaf ears. I guess would take a bit of code to write then would need a yard/ road option soft key. That way when switching both would be on and when on the road only forward facing light would be lit.

 

I have 2 more engines awaiting conversions. Both are new..A GP38-2 and SD40-2. 

 

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