du-bousquetaire Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 About the trucks guys here are a few options: (I sincerly don't recomend stretching out cast Zamac trucks) David Leech makes a fine Pullman standard truck used on lightweigts before the war (SP Dailights and PRR fleet of modernism and probably others) he also makes a truck with an equalising lever for post war trucks these run in an equalised delrin truck frame with a cast resin overlay for the details, they are light, run very well and the resin can be reaired or changed in case of breakage. On my post war cars, visible in the above video (as well as the prewar ones), I used USA trains sprung trucks modified with a new stretcher to bring it closer together and turned down the ends of the axle fusees on my lathe to shorten the width, I also retouched the wheel profile to make it more to scale as well as the flanges. these are metal, sprung and at around $25 bucks a piece are a bargain. I consider the difference between 1/29th scale and 1/32 on such a short component as a truck side frame as acceptable compromise while we await something better... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 About the trucks guys here are a few options: (I sincerly don't recomend stretching out cast Zamac trucks) David Leech makes a fine Pullman standard truck used on lightweigts before the war (SP Dailights and PRR fleet of modernism and probably others) he also makes a truck with an equalising lever for post war trucks these run in an equalised delrin truck frame with a cast resin overlay for the details, they are light, run very well and the resin can be reaired or changed in case of breakage. On my post war cars, visible in the above video (as well as the prewar ones), I used USA trains sprung trucks modified with a new stretcher to bring it closer together and turned down the ends of the axle fusees on my lathe to shorten the width, I also retouched the wheel profile to make it more to scale as well as the flanges. these are metal, sprung and at around $25 bucks a piece are a bargain. I consider the difference between 1/29th scale and 1/32 on such a short component as a truck side frame as acceptable compromise while we await something better... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Hi, du-bousquetaire, I would like to see some of your trucks made from the USA trucks. I have a pair and would like to see if it easier than what I am doing with the MTH trucks. The MTH trucks are nice, but about 1/2 inch too short. Here is a lengthened MTH truck. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Sorry fellows but I have been very busy these past monthsand haven't posted much because of that. Now that I have received the Accucraft 10-6 pullman I ordered, I can say this: The USA trucks look a bit big next to the Accucraft ones. The better proposition would be to try and obtain Accucraft trucks, although it would be a bit more pricey. This I will endeavour to do. Also David Leech makes : or made correct trucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
du-bousquetaire Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Hi mr. Brown: I am sorry it took me so long to answer your query but better late then never! Here are a couple of close up shots that show how I did it. the whole thing started because one of the Zamac USA trains frame stretcher came broken from shipping; so I looked as to how to replace it and found that it was an excellent solution for reducing the width of the trucks after. I used off cuts from extruded aluminum masons rules (that I had been using to make all aluminum bridges to replace my original plywood ones) to make the new stretchers. But any 2mm thick aluminum would do I left one of the 90° wings to make it more rigid, on one end. This by the way indeed makes an excellent all metal structural base for bridge decks, I simply bolt together with epoxy three rulers to make a two track bridge using threaded rod. I drilled it where the original USA stetcher holes were and used the original screws. What I did for 1/32 scale trucks is to turn the end of the axles so that the fusee is much loger giving better wear in the journals and this permits to thin down the width of the original USA trucks. To be specific, this operation reduces the lost space between the wheel and the truck frame. I also thinned down the tire thickness for cosmetic purposes while I was at it and the flanges of course. I have a lot of admiration for what you have acheived with your beautifull mold making and models of full size coaches and locos (I just love those E units). On this photo the cosmetic thining down of the tire width and flanges should be more apparent While I am at it this is one of my all aluminum bridges which shows the use of the masons rulers (I do not know if these are available in US hardware stores though they probably are) with my friend Loïk 's beautifull scratch built Stirling singles crossing over it: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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