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MTH - Hudson (One Gauge) - Photos & Video


Rayman4449
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Here is a collection of photos of the MTH Hudson (One Gauge):

 

For more info see the following pages:

 

Additional Photos and Product information page:  http://www.rayman4449.com/MTH_Hudson.htm

Repairs/Modifications page: http://www.rayman4449.com/MTH_Hudson_mods.htm

 

These pages are accessible off my home page at:  www.rayman4449.com

 

(Click the photo to enlarge)

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Most recent Upgrade to Protosound 3 with upgraded speaker and sound (other whistles available):

 

 

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Hi there, thank you.  I just noticed that when you asked the question about the link to the all models.  All fixed.

 

For the link to all MTH models do you mean all these MTH photo and repair pages by model?

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  • 1 year later...

I was looking over Ray's pages for any tips on better pulling power? I believe that this engine should pull better. I did read a comment on how MTH made changes to the Big boy after making the first Hudsons and Challengers in an effort to make better pulling power.

 So I'm tempted to just add some weight to her. I would guess that it should be added over the main drivers if possible and low as possible? Anybody done this?

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I have added a little weight to mine for extra pulling power.  The traction tires are on the rear axle on this engine so you will want to add the weight near the rear.  There should be room above the frame above rear trailing truck.  You could also add a few to the floor inside the cab.  Fortunately this engine (like all MTH engines) has traction tires so anytime you do need more pulling power you don't have to add much weight to get relatively good increases in pulling force. 

 

The main change with the Big Boy was to go with a die cast metal frame.  Something they carried forward to the Triplex.  (added weight)

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Thanks Ray. I will try it and see what happens. This engine of mine will pull some cars but not up any hill in the yard. Maybe the tires are dried out? Just seems too light to me. It was a wreck when I got it and maybe some weight was removed???

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I haven't seen MTH traction tires dry out on an MTH steamer but I suppose that could be.  My guess is it just needs weight. (And to clarify for others reading the engine is slipping on hills, the wheels/drive train isn't stalling/stopping)  Just add some weight to the rear and that should fix your issue.  

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Sorry Ray!

 I didn't mean to bash anything. The MTH triplex that I have, would probably pull a stump out of the ground. After running that, I expected the Hudson to do a little better than it does. I will add the weight over the rear drivers and expect it to do good after that. Even though this thing has been abused by it's previous owner(s), it still runs and sounds great. It is my best smoking MTH steamer too.

 The thing about public posting on forums, is the intent of the post, may not be clear.

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No no you're fine I didn't think that at all :)  

 

The hudson does have a decent size weight inside already but in the end that engine probably would have benefited from having the #1 and #3 axles both have tires rather than just #3.  My grade on my layout is really steep and that is the only place I had issues.  

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Nice looking engine Ray!

I noticed that MTH's # was 3465 .. my USA's # is 3462 ..

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after looking @ both, I noticed diff looking drive wheels (spoked / smooth )

Which would be the correct one?

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Thanks Sean :)  Yes they are both nice models.  As far as the correct driver for an ATSF version I'm not sure.  As far as NYC Hudsons both could be considered correct as the NYC Hudsons used a number of different types of drivers over the years (including both of these types).  Even if an engine was delivered with one type of driver they could have actually been changed out later.   I have pictures of mixed type of drivers on the same engine for instance.  ATSF may have speced out a different driver all together.  Both USA Trains and MTH made a NYC Hudson and applied the different road names so when comparing them to an original prototype of an ATSF they may not even look that similar as far as the engine goes overall.  

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  • 1 month later...

Well It's not just a question of drivers, the AT&SF engines were a different design altogether. also they were built by Baldwin wereas the Central was an Alco customer. Modifying the MTH hudson into a true model of the Santa Fe hudson would be quite a project: Aside from the 84" Baldwin disc drivers different from the J3 boxpock drivers, you would have to modify the pilot into a very pointed boiler tube pilot, remove the right hand air pump and place in its stead the Worthington hot water pump, remove the baker valve gear and replace it with a Walshaerts, change the croshead, change the feedwater heater heating chamber with a Worthington one and remove the front chimney (booster exhaust) replace chimney with a much larger one replace the sand dome with a much larger one, install Santa Fe style illuminated number boards,redo some of the running boards and relocate air tank, remove steam turret shrouding on both sides of the firebox, relocate slightly the steam dome, rebuild the cab into a sportcab (name for a cab with an inclined front) of Santa Fe. then you would literally junk the NYC tender and scratch build a Santa Fe one, everything is diferent, size, shape, trucks, rivet details etc. You are looking at a heavy, heavy kitbashing job. Drawings of the Santa Fe hudsons are on page 208-209 of the MR cyclopedia.

 I think it would be an easier job for instance, to use a Hudson boiler and tender and put it on a daylight frame to make a Mohawk out of it, you would have to scratch build a trailing truck though. There used to be articles on company esthetics in steam locos in the model railroader as I don't follow them any more I have no idea if they still do, it looks like 99% diesel though.

 Just for starters though close coupling engine and tender (provided your curves let you do that) would make a big improvement at  very little work.

 By the way does any body know what glue to use on the MTH polycarbonate? I mean a glue that really bonds the parts by melting the plastic together.

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