rbrown7713 Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Here is a pattern that I am making for my garden layout. I am making these patterns for a mold for concrete viaducts. The entire layout will be elevated on these viaducts. I am making them 30 inches long. There will be a straight one and a curved one, 10 ft. radius. The curved ones will have banked roadbeds, about 5 degrees. There will be two tracks and maybe three on the straights. Here are some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieseldude Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Great start. Can't wait to see more. -Kevin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Well, I am a little further, finishing the curved part of the viaduct here are some more pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jime Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Nice work. May I ask were you got the stone on the face. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 Yes, I bought them at Lowes, but they discontinued them. They can be purchased elsewhere, here is the name of the distributor, Anitolia tile and stone, 8300 Huntington rd, Vaughn ON. There are several types, some are more porous, so look for the type that is more solid, I think they are made of granite. Lowes discontinues them because they were too rough for a backsplash. You can also find the tile on Amazon. It is very time consuming, because each tile must be shaped around the curves. They have a webbed backing and in the open areas the tile can be laid quickly, but as soon as there is a curve, individual tiles must be laid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 Here is the finished pattern for the mold, now the big job, making the molds for the concrete. Still working on the curved one. I am trying to imagine 300 feet of this, well, I can dream can't I. Here are some pics with the E8 on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Looking great! I'm looking forward to see how this works out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 rbrown7713, many in the hobby will try to dissuade you from banking your curves, don't loose the faith. I did mine, of course gradually entering just like the easement, haven't regretted it once. Very nice viaducts, and quite an undertaking. Keep us up on it please. thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 Hello Nick jr. I am curious why one would not like the prototypical look of banked curves? Obviously the speed is not a factor as in full scale, but is there something I am not aware of because of banking? I have seen layouts that have been banked and liked the look of the train as it goes around a curve, it looks like it should. I don't see 5 degrees being a problem, please fill me in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Speed can be a factor if your are running a USAT GG1 wide open, not something I do often. It seems that many in our scale that tried it didn't have success. Many derailments possibly because they didn't ease into the banking, just like easing into a curve. I can't say what degree I used, but the final bank measured out to about 1/2" to 16" of width. I like you have a 2 track main line so my curve planking is wider than my straight allowing more room for slight hang over. Inside rail is SS and I run my electrics, for instance USAT GG1 with USAT passenger cars and one Mail/Combine. Outside is Aluminum rail for my LS loco's. There I'll use my LS K4 and Aristo Heavyweights. With both running at the same time I haven't had a miss hap yet, and I'm not fearful of loosing control. I only mentioned the loco's and cars to show the length of the cars used. That is what seemed to be the major problem, they mentioned the longer cars derailed on the banked curves. I can only attest to what I've had success with, not the problems others state that have had. Hope others chime in with their experiences. Thank You Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 UPDATE: I am finished with the pattern. I laid the track to test the clearances. When I run the 85ft. passenger cars, I might have to run one train at a time, the clearances are close. I am ready to start making the molds. Here are some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 What a project! WAY beyond me. I can't imagine doing that. Probably have to make the molds several times? Or will they hold up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Hi Jerry, the parts of the mold that are flat and not in contact with the stone will be made of epoxy and will make hundreds of parts. The two part synthetic rubber, made for concrete, should hold up fine. If it doesn't than I will have to. According to a commercial product made for concrete, the website says that it will make hundreds of parts also, we shall see. This will be the most difficult mold that I have made so far, because I will mixing hard molds with the rubber sections of the mold. I will post updates when I get further into the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 rbrown7713. i know you have put a lot of time and effort to your project, but stil have time to change it, better to make them wider NOW rather than regret it later. I have no regrets on having to change the spacing on my curves. Can run anything I want at any time. JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 Hey Jerry, I forgot to mention that your statement of this being a big project. I keep it in perspective because I just built my house, a 9 year project, I got it finaled the other day, so this project is duck soup compared to that one. I just figured out the plan for the mold for the columns, I can't wait to show it to you, I am working on it today. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 I told you that I would post some pics of the mold. Here is the design of the mold for the columns, 6 will be needed. I had to design the mold in a way that I could access the sides to be able to clay up the plastic fence for the first pour of the half of the mold. The pictures are in order of the procedure. First clay up fence. 2nd, add the other half of the mold end. At this point the first half of the mold will be poured with synthetic rubber. When it sets up, the fence will be removed and the ends will be replaced with the full width section. The second half of the mold will be poured and that completes the procedure. The bolts keep the mold together because I will have to vibrate the mold when concrete is poured. If you have any question or comments, let me know, thanks Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Can't wait to see the castings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 I am posting the pictures of what I am doing as far as making the molds for the Viaduct, If anyone is as crazy as I am for attempting this. Here are some pictures of the large part of the mold ready for the pouring of the silicon or urethane, I haven't decided which one to use. I guess the silicon is twice as much as the urethane material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Man that will take a LOT of material to cast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 Hi Jerry, yes it will. The large part will weigh 160 lbs. if I don't try to reduce the weight with micro balloons or perlite or foam. Regardless, I plan to use a small crane to place the large pieces. If anyone has any ideas to make the concrete lighter, let me know. I will be experimenting with the smaller columns until I get the mixture correct. I even thought of pouring them with some sort of foam, but I am afraid of the weather damage being outside. Maybe I can find some kind that holds up with weather, I don't know yet. I am making the curved section for the urethane mold right now, probably be done tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 Well I finished the mold on the curved section of the viaduct for the urethane part. I wanted to share the way I grouted the blocks. At first, I used a water and grout mixture to grout, very messy. This time I spread the grout dry and packed it in with my fingers and brushed off the excess and then sprayed with polyurethane, much easier, quicker and a lot less messy and it still filled the voids. I also came across the mixture of lightweight concrete formula, should reduce weight from 172 to 85 lbs. according to the formula, so I think I can handle that. My main concern is strength and resolution of the details, I won't know until I lay a column up, should be within a couple of weeks, urethane on the way. Here are some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Looks great . Think you can get those nice colors in the concrete later? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 Yes Jerry if I make them in white cement. White will take any colors, but looking at real viaducts, the colors are much darker and dirtier in real life. I haven't decided yet to make the look nice or realistic. Thanks for your encouragement and interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Some concrete stains? I guess thin acrylics would do the job also. Guess you don't want to paint all those blocks different colors! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Well if it takes that, that is what I will do. Here are some pictures of a cheap concrete vibrator I made, looks like it will work. I put a video on YouTube, just search either my channel- omiateeful, or DIY concrete vibrator cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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