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Question on pulling power for Engines


texmaster
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Hi folks,

 

I have an Aristo Craft CLASSIC C-16 WOOD RIO GRANDE PACIFIC SLOPE engine that I use at halloween to pull a small amount of cars with some halloween items. The kids love it but this engine struggles to get around the track so I've been looking for a locomotive with a stronger engine to get it around the track and wondered what I should be looking at.   Definitely another steam loco.  I've heard LGB is a good brand but how can you tell with all the different models what would be stronger than the engine I currently have?

Here is a video to help demonstrate what I'm talking about.

 

Not looking to break the bank either.   300-400 is really about as high as I want to go.

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It's hard to tell from the video what the issue is. Are the wheels simply slipping or is there little to no slippage and the engine just slows down? If youre not sure you will want to reconfirm. I think you either have wheel slippage or voltage drop due to poor electrical connections at the rail joints. The slider joiners are not generally no that great and dont make tight connections at the rail joints which when multiplied times many joints results in engines slowing down especially at the furthest point from the power supply connection to the layout. I would reconfirm if not sure but you probably need to 1) make sure you have all the slider screws in place and tight at all joints 2) maybe remove the joiners completely and crimp tighter with pliers or 3) consider removing all slider joiners and replacing with direct to rail railclamps. I prefer splitjaw brand. I have a link that explains the different types on my website.

If the engine is slipping, maybe you can find a way to add some lead weight to the engine to help it pull a little better. In any case that engine should be able to pull that load on that layout just need to help correct the power or lack of weight.

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It's hard to tell from the video what the issue is. Are the wheels simply slipping or is there little to no slippage and the engine just slows down? If youre not sure you will want to reconfirm. I think you either have wheel slippage or voltage drop due to poor electrical connections at the rail joints. The slider joiners are not generally no that great and dont make tight connections at the rail joints which when multiplied times many joints results in engines slowing down especially at the furthest point from the power supply connection to the layout. I would reconfirm if not sure but you probably need to 1) make sure you have all the slider screws in place and tight at all joints 2) maybe remove the joiners completely and crimp tighter with pliers or 3) consider removing all slider joiners and replacing with direct to rail railclamps. I prefer splitjaw brand. I have a link that explains the different types on my website.

If the engine is slipping, maybe you can find a way to add some lead weight to the engine to help it pull a little better. In any case that engine should be able to pull that load on that layout just need to help correct the power or lack of weight.

 

Sorry I wasn't clear.  When the engine has to fight a small elevation the wheels slip.

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To ?

It looks like a real problem with the track about in the middle of the left side in the picture.

There appears to be a dip in the track. I don't see wheels slipping when the train slows down.

Looks like it runs out of gas (electrons).

Tom

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If it's just wheel slip on noted grades/inclines then I would focus trying to level it out as much as possible.  Could still add weight that would help some.  I would also take a voltmeter and check voltage at the track power connection points then go to the opposite side of the layout and check the voltage right as the engine is running up to the probes and note what the voltage difference is too.  This will tell you to what extent you are loosing power through the rail joiners.  Because there may be some dip in voltage output from the power supply (may not be) may want to keep probes on the feeder points while the train goes all the way around so you understand what voltage drop variance would be from the power supply and what is from the track connections on the other side.

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What voltage are you using. I have two of the new C16 with the belt drive and they pull just fine. 

 

If you have a kink in the track you will lose traction because of the small wheels lose traction very easily.......Jim

I honestly don't know.   This is the transformer I'm using.

 

MT-0637032_269f960c-4bd2-11e1-8c33-e091f

 

Should I pick up another one?

 

Like this one?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PIKO-TRANSFORMER-POWER-PACK-WITH-CONTROLLER-WIRE-G-Scale-HO-NEW-/351239932557?hash=item51c7880a8d

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Plastic wheels might help some but not enough in your case.  For now, stick with the power supply you have and address the first primary issue is trying to level the track / add weight to the engine. (These are your main items and cost little to nothing to fix)  If you can reduce/eliminate the wheel slip and if you are still having slow downs you want to address then look at rail joints, then lastly power supply.

 

The Piko power supply you listed is only 1amp output at 20v, so no I would not get that.  You current power supply is listed as 1.8amp which has more power than the Piko.  If you do go to replace the powersupply I would get one with 3amp output at the very minimum, ideally 5amp is a good minimum, but you're not at that step yet.  

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The ART 5400 should be okay for a single locomotive.

Plastic wheels will deposit a plastic coating on your track, outside rail on curves is the worst because that wheel drags thru the curve.

...............Jim

Sorry, I meant I'm replacing the plastic wheels with metal.

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I would add lead weights where they will safely fit.  You can go to the fishing tackle aisle at any store that carries sporting goods and get lead weights of the size and type that best fits your situation.  Test add them till the engine slippage is eliminated or reduced to your satisfaction.

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