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Screwy Nick
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Recognition in one's own life time, it gets no better than that.  Wonder if I can change my site name to Screwy Nick??    Administrator how can I do that??

   This is the start of the hopper bending, bottom and sides.  I still need to make the sides more correct depth, couture the top, bend the bottom tabs and screw them into the sides,  among other adjustments that need to be made.  I'm also considering making a detachable blade made of plastic as my inside track is electrified and would not like to short it out while plowing.

       More tomorrow,  Rest of today is for dog grooming, and she hates it.       LG

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Try to have the side mount to the metal so it's inside and you do not see it. Solder a nut to the back so you have a threaded connection. I don't think the plastic will hold as well as a threaded connection.

Looking great Screwy Nick! :wacko:

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Kevin,   thank you very much, yes it's official.   

   Sean, as much as I do like your idea I can't change the position of the bracket.  The mods to the body of the car would be glaring.  That is something I should have considered at the start.

    Respecting your thought that self taping screws will not hold for very long in the plastic, I agree it is better to do something else.  I've enlarged the holes to accept 2-56 screws and adhered the nuts to the inside wall of the car using the 'new to me' ultraviolet adhesive.  The JB Kwik disappointed me and I hope this one will fare better.  I also have an alternative plan if that doesn't work.   Any input is always appreciated.     Screwy Nick

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   Going to give the JB Kwik another try.  I fashioned the top piece for the hopper and used the it to hold the top and bottom folds.  I'm going to let the top alone as a test of the Kwik, but added screws and nuts to the bottom as I intend to add a bar across the front for a detachable coupler assembly I have seen in pics.   Good news, my U joints have shipped.  

     Gave the hopper a coat of primer, end of the can so it's not so good and then a coat of paint.  Now to fashion a bracket to secure 'shaft alley' to the body of the car for added strength.

    Quick Observation:  it seems the direction of rotation of the vane has an effect on the thrust of the discharge.  A quick look seems the CC rotation produces more thrust to the top, where as the CW rotation seems to want to blow some air back out the front.  Considering that it would have been designed to throw air  and dirt in the direction of the bag, kind of makes sense.  I will have to do a lot more testing with smoke to see if I am on the right track, or just blowing smoke.  If that is the case my thought to use a 4 stroke airplane engine, left over from making my Hyde Out Mountain Live Diesel locomotive is out of the ?? as i believe  it will only rotate CW.   

    Still enjoying the journey.      LG

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Sean, much better than the block shape that I have,  I will attempt to make that mod,   THANK YOU.       

EDIT: found a can on the shelf, and it looked OK.  while massaging the tube of 'hardener cream' the bottom blew out all over me. What's in the can looks good, I'll see if I can just purchase the hardener cream.    

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Not quite, but working on it.  I decided to take the opportunity to smooth out some areas of a poor paint job.  Quick trip to AC Moore then I'll concentrate on it and I'll report later today.  Thank You for your interest.     LG  

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Touched up all the dings on the plow parts.  Have to let it all set for 48hrs before applying a dull coat.   I learned a harsh lesson when I didn't.  The Clear or Dull coat consists of a solvent that will wrinkle up paint that hasn't fully set, very strong.   

    I'm very happy with how everything looks and am now building a spring assembly to further secure the plow assembly, actually shaft alley,  to the car.  

       Thank You       

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Jerry, thank you.  

         I just can't wait the full 48hrs,  going to dull coat the parts later this afternoon as it is such a nice warm day.

  Many of the Dull or Clear Coat products are Lacquer based products that will loosen uncured enamel paints.  

       Still having fun.      LG  

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Sean, the U joints I ordered are still in transit so it may be a bit before I make a permanent drive.  BUT I am tempted to just chuck a battery powered drill into the shaft and as per your recommendation, I saved a bag of saw dust to try it with while I was cutting wood earlier this year.    While assembling the whole thing I realized I have a glaring gap between the hopper and impeller that I didn't have before I added the top to the hopper.   I have to make an adjustment before I give it that try.  Give me a couple of days and I will, promise.   Thank You         

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Nick

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What is the reasoning behind the springs?

Are you expecting a lot of vibrations?

Did you look into a U bolt / or electrical clamp for that application ?

Hopefully you get to post some drive system pics soon .

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