Screwy Nick Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 I seem to have spent a lot of time working on the diverter, something that I really don't even know for sure will work. Hope you can see the baffle can be pivoted depending which side of the track you want the snow to be shot to. But I'm posting a few shots of my progress. Note: the shoot itself is all silver soldered but every thing else is assembled with screws so it can be disassembled and modified when the design doesn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 17, 2015 Author Share Posted November 17, 2015 Further progress: 'Shaft Alley' to keep the impeller shaft in line so it can be connected to the motor with a piece of rubber tubing, still in the thought stages as I'm obviously winging this one stage at a time. U-joints the best way to do it, is not an option for me. If I've aligned the holes for the ball bearings properly it should be OK at the RPM's of the motor I'm using. In keeping with my thoughts that all if this is a test, will connect it to the over all blower assembly with screws so the parts can be disassembled and modified when it doesn't work. Any errors seen, anticipated or suggestions will be appreciated. Thank You LG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 18, 2015 Author Share Posted November 18, 2015 While blowing leaves, I have a battery drill breaking in the BBings. It is only about 3800RPM, less than half of the 9660 motor I hope to use. This will also give me a hint if 'shaft alley' is up to the task. LG Edit: didn't like the fact that the drill was being supported by the assembly, possibly undue stress and wear. So I made a small change. see last pic, rotate it 90' so Shaft Alley is at the top. Thank You Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 I decided that motor I found is not that great. Had to spin the blade to get it goiung! So looked in the barn, knew I had some old Aristo motors, but found a nice German made one. Not sure where it came from, but sure seems solid and turns higher rpms. Dunkermotoren is the brand. Looked them up, found a used one on ebay, it's 22v, mine is 15v. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dunkermotoren-Magnet-DC-Motor-GR-42-X-25-GR42X25-88427-01937-22-Volt-Used-/291324430790 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 Jerry, keep up posted on your progress. I found the motor I am going to try has an operating range of 4.5 - 9.6 with a 6V constant. It sure does spin at 9.6. LG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 So we are both using 'found' motors, not too scientific! I did a search, your motor must be : http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-bin/catalog/e_catalog.cgi?CAT_ID=rs_540sh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 Jerry, that is exactly the spec page I printed, your thoughts?? LG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 I don't know Nick, thought I had planned things out well with that crawler motor, but it was a bust. So will try this one, had to order a bigger U-joint though. Not sure of your rubber hose connection. You going to use clamps on it? Might look into it, just for grins. Was gone to the VA yesterday, hauling my wife to the doc today, so maybe tomorrow I can get back to it. Got some MTH parts from Ray, so have some other work to do to the Daylight and F3's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 Jerry, not THRILLED with this motor as I can stall it at 6 vdc with my fingers, but at 12vdc it sure has guts, but don't think it would run for very long at that high voltage. looking to try an operating range of 9.2 as in the older drill drivers. Rubber tubing: I clearly remember using that on the HO and N scale stuff, couldn't hurt to try in the larger scale, and yes I did intend to use clamps, especially since I'd be going from the very small diameter shaft of the motor to the 5/16 shaft drive I'm using. The tubing was only to replace the flexibility of the U joint. And I do appreciate your input, thank you. And I hope to see your latest on the F3's and the Daylight. LG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Sorry about the motor, we are having fun aren't we? :-) This is the blade I used Nick. Seems to blow air forward as much as it doe up the chute. Had to trim it some on the band saw. Made a jig with a peg for it to rotate on. Did a little sanding on the lathe then so it would fit in the plumbing pipe cap I used. http://www.marbeck.com/eureka-vacuum-cleaner-fan-2000-7000-series-12988/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 22, 2015 Author Share Posted November 22, 2015 Jerry, I THINK that is the blade I used also. I also had to shrink the diameter of the blade to fit the plumbing reducer, not as precise as you, I chucked it in a drill and held it over my Work Sharp till it reached the desired diameter. I also trimmed the center as I wanted the red blades (pic posted on 7 Nov) to fit closer to the vanes. If I get the benefit of a more precise blow It was purely by accident. I'm now 'butchering' the car I'm going to use to carry it. Still a very long way to go. Edit 1: think I finished 'modifying' a beautiful LGB woodside Refer. For the first time I'm using adhesive to hopefully maintain the dimensions of the car. The ends, sides and floor are one casting so after removing one end the sides just flop around. Now have to wait 24 hours for the Plastruct to fully harden, if I've used the correct adhesive. If not it's back to blocks and screws. pics LG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 Today's progress as it is and am posting it in the raw as I haven't even cleaned it up or smoothed it out. As you can see there is a mixture of brass, screws, PVC and Plastruct. And it is all hand ground to fit very nicely Today I was introduced to JB Kwik. I have used the regular JB Weld extensively as the rating temp for that is 600'F, this is 230'F. Since this not part of a locomotive I took the plunge, and am so far happy with it, time and stress will tell the whole story. It still needs time to cure and I will come back to this tomorrow to make screw attachments to the car I butchered. I like adhesives but I LOVE screws. If any one has any input about the JB Kwik I'd appreciate your experiences. I would like to add: when I purchased the reducer for this project, only the tapered one was available where I purchased it. If you are going to make one of these I suggest if you can get the FLAT reducer. It will also REDUCE the labor and make adapting it to a car much easier. JMHO, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share Posted November 24, 2015 Jerry, your concerns about rubber tubing connections has been bouncing around in my head, so I am going to try something. I have so many partial 'socket sets' that have U joints. I'm in the process of drilling and taping 1/4" drive 1/4" socket to accept the 5/16 shaft, bolt, that I am using to drive the blades and impeller. I also found some U joints on line from a Robot Company, so lets see. So between the motors, Joints, connections and everything else involved, YES we are having fun. LG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 26, 2015 Author Share Posted November 26, 2015 The taping of the 1/4" socket was a failure, the drill and tap was no where near straight on. Already conjuring Plan C, or is it D?. Hardware stores aren't open today so will wait till tomorrow to get the parts I'm thinking about using. I did make some progress today. Found an old USAT Caboose that is not their usual 1:29 scale, it is the scale of their Maintenance car fleet. I don't know what scale it is, but it seems to be very compatible with the LGB car that I am using for the car which I don't think I 1:29 or 1:20. It seems to be a good fit for all the things I have. If anyone knows the actual scale of either I'd appreciate knowing. Enough for today, have a Duck just waiting to go into the oven. HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL I know I have a lot to be thankful for. LIFE IS GOOD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieseldude Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 I think the USAT MOW cars and caboose are 1:24. The caboose might be old Delton line, but again, I'm not positive. Oh, and by the way, this thread is really cool. I'm not ready to build a rotary, yet, but someday...... I mean, hey, I live in Buffalo. I need a rotary. Keep up the great work. -Kevin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 27, 2015 Author Share Posted November 27, 2015 Kevin, thank you for the info, don't know what line as the box is long gone and the bottom is just stamped Charles Ro and the city. Glad you are enjoying the thread. I was sent to Buffalo twice and you will need something much more substantial than what I'm building. LG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 Nick have you thought of using a drill bit extender ? Cant' post pics. Look were the drill bits are @ Lowes or Home depot are located. Just Google drill extender to see what I mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 27, 2015 Author Share Posted November 27, 2015 Sean, thank you for the tip. If I can adapt that to a universal joint I'm golden. And I'm sure they'd be more 'true' than just a ratchet extension as they are made to spin at a rate of speed, mmmmmmmmm I'm very lucky as I have a Home Depot and Lowes all within 3 miles of the house. The more I think about it the more I do like it. THANK YOU AGAIN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 Snow is coming and you're thinking to much ... finish it already! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 27, 2015 Author Share Posted November 27, 2015 Sean, I appreciate your input, over thinking a project seems to be just one of my faults. I need to be able to interface the motor to the impeller, but they will each be on a different plane so the connection should be as smooth as possible so there is a minimum of vibration and it doesn't destroy itself. There is a definite need for at least 1 or possibly 2 U joints to do what I THINK (subject to change) is necessary to accomplish this. Tomorrow is another day and my plan is to go to HD or Lowes and research the drill extenders. Thank You Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 28, 2015 Author Share Posted November 28, 2015 Went to Sears and HD for Drill bit extenders, when I didn't find what I thought would work in my application , I got even more ideas. Pic 1 is plan D, tuning to absorb the not so perfect alignment of the 5/16 thread adaptor and the 1/4" socket. Pic 2 is plan E where the not perfectly aligned 1/4 socket that is connected to a 5/16 adaptor which will again at the right connect to a piece of tubing to absorb the misalignment of the connections. Pic 3 shows with the U joint in the mix as the motor will not be on the same plane as the rotary shaft, I'm leaning towards this one. It seems the U joint I'm using needs to be broken in so it can stand to be less aligned with the BB and shaft assembly. BUT, I haven't received an answer to my inquiry to the Robot Company about their U joints flexibility, AND after all of this I still need to find a motor that will do what I want it to of the one I have doesn't. Truth be told, for me it's the thrill of the journey. LG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 I ordered this U-joint from China on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/360532728556?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 Jerry, thank you very much for the tip. I compared the U joints from the Robot Company, made of Powder Metal Zinc Alloy. I am familiar with that process and don't believe it would be strong enough to take the abuse our application will give it. Some things that are made of are like conduit joints and BX fittings, nothing that is subject to continued stress. The joints you recommended are made of Stainless Steel, much much better I did order a similar joint from the same site. I ordered the last 3 of 4m 4m WEU joints. I just again checked the site and they aren't even listed any more. Delivery is 16 December and the shipping is FREE?? What I can't figure out is regular postage is more than $2 than the cost of the joints. Even if later charged for shipping, still a great deal, or so I hope. Thank You again for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screwy Nick Posted December 1, 2015 Author Share Posted December 1, 2015 I received an Email stating that I will receive the U joints any time between 16 Dec and 20 Jan. This gives me plenty of time to change the material I was going to use for the 'hopper'. I originally was going to use PVC for the hopper and the side pieces. I found that the JB Kwik doesn't really like the plastic I am using, all of the joints have just parted clean meaning nothing adhering to the plastic just the metal. Decided to make the hopper out of metal as it would be stiffer than plastic. My first choice was brass and also considered aluminum. My scroll saw made the choice as the blades I have cut through the Al. I now need to bend the sides and bottom to conform to what I am hoping for. If any additional pieces of Al need to be added I can use my best choice of putting things together, screws. LG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 You sure are a screwy person! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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