enginear joe Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 I thought I would start a new post for anyone who gets a kit. I feel the instructions are confusing a little as there are six possible wires for the smoke unit and you only need 4. The other problem is the diagram in the instructions doesn't show a drawing of a smoke unit. It just shows a box representing the smoke unit overall. So, there are two brown wires from pins #8 & 10 labeled smoke heat. There are 2 green wires from pins #16 & 18 labeled smoke fan. There's also pin 14 going to the smoke picture labeled PV. Then there's a grey wire on the other side from pin 21 labeled P5V that goes to another picture block smoke unit. I believe there's redundancy and I'm checking to get answers. I believe the 1st 2 wires I listed are just duplicates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 For connecting one smoke unit use both brown wires together to one side of smoke heat and the two green wires to one terminal on the fan motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Thank you Ray! I believe they should have made that clearer in the instructions. They did mention the colors as a clue. I was afraid that connecting them together might short a FET or something on the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 It was posted before on the OGR, that the PS2 board's marker circuit was designed for the micro LEDs that were included in upgrade kits. Regular bulbs would overload it. I was told not even to use regular LEDs on it.I'm installing a new diesel PS3 kit into a USA Trains diesel. It has a regular LED in the dash board. I was trying to figure out where to connect it? As I look over the diagram for options the marker circuit looks the best. It is not used in this model. I was wondering if the circuit is still lower power just for the MTH micro LED markers? Would it drive regular sized LEDs?I thought of tying to the headlight circuit so it would be on when running. The interior lights go out I believe. The mars lights are also unused, but I believe they'll still flash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 On the marker LEDs, if that was true then the One Gauge Triplex would burn out the LEDs on it as those on the front are normal LEDs not micro, so that's not true. Would then have to believe that they downsized the circuit for the new PS3 board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Well, maybe I'm mixing up the intent. The PS2 board had limited available power on the marker circuit (smaller plug) I was told. I was told to only stick with the stock MTH markers as they draw less. I added several LED lights for ground lighting and others to my scratch build. I was told to use the interior circuit or similar on the 12 wire plug. The new board does have more functions with the markers, number boards, ditch lights, etc. being dedicated circuits. I'll try a regular LED on this marker circuit and see what happens. It's only one compared to the four markers. They are wired in series though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Sorry, is what wired in series? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Ooops. Sorry Ray. The stock included MTH micro-markers are wired in series. I'm guessing that's to handle the power? I wanted to add a big thank you here publicly. You have helped me since my start in G scale. I appreciate that, and the constant help still to this day. Live long and prosper!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Thank you and sure thing If they wired the new marker lights in series (I haven't looked at the set in detail yet) my guess is it was a decision made on the type of LED to use to make install as simple and clean as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 Well it would not fire up. I dreaded having to discuss the possibility of a defective board. I double checked some stuff. I found one slider is not picking up power? I found the DCS/DCC switch was set to DCC, and finally, I just wasn't waiting long enough for the caps to charge. After about a full minute + to charge, she fired right up! Happy days. It has a decent sound file loaded. Some of the lighting doesn't match up and I'll either swap the plugs, or try a dedicated sound file that belongs to the SD70MAC. Maybe that will correct or change the lighting? I'll have to fine tune my stripes as I lost all my notes and memory of what was needed. Something told me in the back of my mind that the size of the flywheel, was way off from what was needed. I should write this stuff on my wall in front of me because I'm losing my memory! Oh well, I have 2 others upgraded to PS2 that I can look at if needed. Chuck sent me an email to guide me there. It is great not having to install a polarity switch anymore. I thought the tiny wires weren't that bad to deal with as I thought they'd be. 2 (4?) of them were smaller than my auto-stripper would handle. There are many extra outputs that maybe used for more lighting effects. The board does not seem to snap into it's base that strongly so I may add some ties? While inside the trucks, I swapped out the wheels with the traction tires to all steel, as I do with the rest of mine. They still pull decently, it saves on gears, and they run smoother at very slow speeds. I saw the newer releases don't have traction tires anymore. I found one idler has excessive wear and replaced it. Back to the lighting when I get the chance. Swapping sound files will be first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Just any FYI for those reading this, there is no need to let the on-board caps charge up before use or before it will start. That is something handled in the background and is transparent to the operation of the board/engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 I was told that the caps hold a charge for a while. If U run the engine frequently, you won't even notice. This was brand new and I test on my bench with leads connected to the sliders, just for testing. I thought I'd describe the experience for others. As many engines as I've installed boards into, I'm not a pro. I only do it for myself. I have physical handicaps that limit my work. I also wanted to get a feel for the new boards. I have several O scale and now one G scale MTH that's PS3 equipped from the factory. I installed a PS3 steam board into an O scale Allegheny before any kits were released. I liked the performance of that engine. I like the factory equipped engines for their lighting effects. I look forward to more lighting used in the future releases. I think they all should have ground lights (steps and porches on modern engines). I had considered replacing my PS2 boards in my scratch built MP15AC switcher to achieve extra lighting effects like directional ditch lights, etc. I think this PS3 system, moves MTH forward as a whole. The fact that they still work with older releases is great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 Well I'm struggling with the lighting. I connected everything per the instructions, and they don't work as they should. For a test, I swapped soundfiles with a SD70MAC PS3 railking model and it stayed the same. I don't see a PS3 in premier for the SD70MAC yet. So I'm left to wonder if it's the soundfile (railking's files usually don't have full lighting), or something else? One ditch light is on in forward and the other comes on when in reverse? They are connected to the dedicated ditch circuits as labeled. I compared it to a stock PS3 diesel, and just about every wire output location is different. There does not appear to be a standard in wiring? Two different factory models have different wiring? Maybe changed by the date of manufacture or by model of the sound sets? There's no control over any lighting from the soft keys. The head lights, and tail lights do work as they should. Most others just stay on or don't work at all. So I'll try another sound set for PS3 in premier (SD70ACe). I'm not sure if the chain files need swapping to get the lighting changed? Now I see why Ray works so hard! I'm getting there. It's going to take me all week at this rate. It's a fairly new system for me. I think it will come easier with time. Getting older is making it tougher to remember all this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 I've done a comparison between a factory PS3 one gauge engine and the PS3 kit and the wire locations are the same which is as it should be. (They can't be different as they would work universally in the factory test device used to test these boards) I would recheck your wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 OK Ray, but I checked the wiring three times against the instructions. The ditch lights are connected to dedicated ditch light circuits. I even traced them back to the harness. The stock engines I looked at were O scale. I guess I could open up my G scale dash 8. I think I'll try the sound set swap one more time. The fact that no light plugs go on or off with soft keys, and none flash at all, leads me to believe it's a programming problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 Well this is the second time I swapped sound files and counting the one that was pre-installed, that's 3x and no change. So I'm left to guess that it's in the chain files, or locked from the factory? I'm testing all the light outputs. The head and tail lights work correctly. The ditch light function outputs are split and work in opposite directions. They won't flash nor any others, no matter what's changed on the remote? On the new loader 5.0, the only button I see for changing the chain files, says it's for HO engines only? I'm not sure if I'd use that button or just select the chain files with the loader and it would do it automatically? I thought there was something on my old loader that was specifically for the chain files??? Urrrggg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 So I swapped the chain files and now the decoder is in reset mode. It works the exact same but it now beeps out morse code after shutting dwn or when power's applied. Urrggg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 So I swapped the chain files and now the decoder is in reset mode. It works the exact same but it now beeps out morse code after shutting dwn or when power's applied. Urrggg. Joe, when you apply power be patient and let the beeping finish and the board will auto start-up when done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 OK, but it did it a couple of times now. I'll retry later when I have more time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Wow. I put power to it today and it started beeping. It then fired up on it's own. Just as I started to giggle, I noticed the ditch lights were now off? I tried all the soft keys and they all work now! I'm surprised to say the least. Maybe need to cycle the power more or it needed a rest after I played with it so much???? Thanks again Ray!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Glad you got it working and glad I could help some Remember that with PS3 the ditch lights are only on when moving forward and when you stop the those lights go out. (I'm sure you knew/remembered but just in case ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Yes, and I was glad it worked like that. The interior lights go out, the headlight gets brighter, and the ditch lights come on. Just what I wanted! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 https://youtu.be/BGh7gLq-xSU these are SD70ACe sound files Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 and here's with SD70MAC sound file:https://youtu.be/Ae_y5d0v_xk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Looks good Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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