PRR G5 by Wuhu

[Screwy Nick]

Received my newest locomotive, and my first step into 1:32. I refer to the article in SiTG, the evaluation of it made my decision an easy one, and knowing that Trip R is their support in the US I didn't think I could go wrong. 
The odd loco/tender coupling mentioned in the article is really very nice thing. It is to make the water and gas connections easy while they are separated, and then the tender is rolled up to the loco and joined or disconnected, I thought a nice touch. Also included with mine is a tool to adjust the By Pass valve for the water feed to the boiler.
The one featured in the article was the LIRR version, very plain compared to the PRR version. The loco spokes are delicate and very nicely striped as is the tender. body. IMHO a very nicely made and detailed locomotive. I didn't think I could ask for more.  
I attempted to post pics of the PRR version, but my new software upgrade has left me at a loss but I will keep trying, their web site has a pic of one.  
I hope to fire it up on rollers in the next two days or so ,and will post those results as well.
Thank You

[enginear joe]

I'm sorry I have to ask, what is SiTG?

[enginear joe]

http://www.livesteamg1us.com/pennsy-g5.html

you live steam guys get everything!

[Screwy Nick]

Come on Joe, you electric guys have so much more to choose from, and without all the cleaning up afterward.  That link is what I was looking for,  thank you.   

   SiTG is a publication comes out every other month,   Steam In The Garden.    

And BTW, the only way anyone is going to get my sparkies is out of my cold dead hands,  I love them.  Have two tracks, one SS  for them and one AL for the messy ones.     

[Screwy Nick]

After the usual inspection and lubrication I fired it up this afternoon. It fooled me twice as when the flame popped back I thought it went out as I didn't see the blue flame in the flue as I am used to with the poker burner. When I looked at the fire box glass it had a nice amber flame that was turning to red. It reached 60 lbs pressure within 5 minutes, and I was fearful of the new burner so kept the flame low. After easily clearing the cylinders in the usual manner it just chugged along on rollers. Not sure if I trust the site glass as I had the by pass valve opened all the way and it still showed full. I shut it down after 20 minutes and vented the boiler with one of the relief valves.  
Will do more runs on rollers tomorrow so I can learn more about the burner, site glass and by pass valve before putting it on the outside track.
I plan to install R/C. There is sufficient area in the cab for the servos, but no dry area in the tender, just adds to the adventure.  
A big thank you to Wuhu and Bob Clark, who BTW is also an old motor head so all of our communications were easy and pleasant. thank you.

[Screwy Nick]

Follow up on the second firing, again on rollers:
Filling the boiler with the tender pump the hose developed a leak dead center between the two. I replaced it with a thinker walled tubing I happened to have on hand.
I let this run go longer than yesterday, 45+ minutes before I shut it down. Finding that the site glass is accurate and the by pass valve is not so difficult to control. I'm sure on the track with a couple of heavyweights the settings will be a bit different. I still have more to learn about this locomotive.
I am very happy with the loco as it is, but will make a few cosmetic changes, just because. Thank You

[Jerry B44]

Seems those WuHu's need some work when you first get them. Based on other readings about them here an there, but most steam is that way.

[Screwy Nick]

   Jerry,  you are right, most live steamers do need tweeking when you first get them. The postings about one latest Heisler is still on going, even Asters have issues now and again that are also posted here and there.      The only exception to that rule is the two Roundhouse that I have.  My personal experience was they needed nothing right out of the box.  I guess that is because they run them for I believe several hours before packing and shipping.  

  The author of the article in SiTG much more knowledgeable than I  "I recommend this engine for anyone wanting a freight or passenger engine.  Good sized and powerful, reasonable price and good value for the money"   And I agree.   IMHO, when it comes to Live Steam, if you can't turn a small wrench or nut driver be prepared to spend money for some one else to do it, as they need a lot of maintenance,  which is also part of the lure.   LG   

[Jerry B44]

That's why so many end up shelf queens!

[Screwy Nick]

Jerry, you are probably right.  Just like a car, truck or bike the initial cost is merely a down payment.  The up keep is the long term investment.  The more maintenance you can do yourself the more cost effective it is to own.  I ride a 92 Heritage Softail Classic that has never seen the inside of a repair shop, BTW today is $95/Hr Labor.  (I totally rebuilt it after a crash in 97 with many enhancements) I get so much more thrill riding it than just looking at it in the garage.  Hence I don't understand the Shelf Queen concept, but to each his own.    Thank You     

[du-bousquetaire]

Actually fellows I find live steam easier than electric! Here is the reason why: Sure you have to clean your loco after a run but that takes minutes and is not really painstaking work; you can be confortably sitting at your workbench. Electric and in particular DCS is a lot of work: For one you have to run a large section bus wire all around your track, install circuit boxes every three yards or so and make jumper connections to your track in brass or soldered. Then you have to bond your track or use those awful (visually) rail clamps. Then you must protect your TIU against shorts and install a fuse box with 5 amp fuses which you must buy in bulk orders as you can easely run through three or four fuses in one afternoon running session!  After a while running on other power sources you will have to invest in a Bridgewerks power supply. Then you must clean your rails (on all fours in my case as I have a ground level line) in double track (total 100 meters!) and trim the grass, as that can wreck havock with the pick up.

 I steam once you have tunned your engine made sure all the screws are tight (don't strip the threads though, not too tight), Once you have gotten the wicks right, once your sure that your exhaust is in line, also that your clacks are fine (I empty my boilers after every run for this as this prevents electrolysis from removing the zinc in the brass which after a while becomes porous and brittle). If you have a stuck clack put boiling water into the tender and it should loosen the recalcitrant clack. And friends, I operate four multi cylinder engines! Every once in a while you have a real problem that needs fixing but most you can fix yourself, a fried board you cannot! Try it you will like it. And there is the joy of running with good friends too.

[Screwy Nick]

  And from someone much more knowledgable than I,   And thank you for the tip on releasing a stuck clack, easier than the whole disassemble and assemble routine.    Thank You and keep steaming.     LG

[enginear joe]

You're in France and you have a PRR T1! I'm left humbled and very jealous. I love to see the pics though.

[du-bousquetaire]

Actually that T1 was the one owned by a British friend my own was inside the indoor terminal, as I had guests to take care of that day (and some cooking to do). There are quite a few in Europe and I follow two prototypes: The French Nord railway (Although before that I did model the PLM which is the South East region of the SNCF and actually scratchbuilt A 2-D-2 9100 and a renault railcar), and the PRR  since 2010. That Chapelon with an authentic rake of NORD coaches both Rapides and one Express as well as a CIWL diner and a Postal car is mine and two coaches are scrtatch built. (The Express Nord C11 coach with English like doors to every other compartiment and the Postal car). I like running engines with apropriate consists. I sincerly think that it will be the next step in gauge one. Untill now it was pretty difficult because of lack of available coaching stock. I think that now with what is available and a little scratch building we can get there. The NORD did not adhere to the OCEM program and to the end built it's own passenger coaches (under the supervision of Marc De Caso) So NORD passenger trains have a special look to them and those very curvy lines of the C 11 are typical of that look at any 1930 era passenger train of the Nord and you will see these very curvatious lines, Marylin Monroe made coaches! The windows are even arched.

[Screwy Nick]

Simon,  your work is so detailed, no words can describe, and mostly scratch built as I have followed your articles in SiTG.   

      Following up on 'just because'. I started to blacken the by pass valve and a few other bottom places. Under the work bench light the Brunswick Green became more noticeable, we all know how close to black it is. In these old eyes it seems to be just a bit darker than the Floquil version. 
Bob called to follow up on the sale, and told me they are going to produce cars to go along with the Casey Jones loco and in development are 80' coaches in several road names that will go behind my G5. Those I can't wait to see. If the quality is anything like their loco's, I'm in for a couple. Thank You.

[Screwy Nick]

If I may add: have now added glass to the locomotive cab, something I have been successfully doing for several years on LS locos. I'm in the process of adapting a coupler that will allow me to pull the Aristo Heavyweights. Also considering putting the receiver and batteries for the R/C into the 5239 mail car. The Combo Baggage/Passenger car carries the battery for the LED lighting in the trailing cars. LG

[Screwy Nick]

   Today I adapted a USAT coupler to the tender and attached an Aristo Heavyweight car.   As some one posted on videos elsewhere looked very good in motion.   I agree, up close and personal they do look very good together.  LG   

[Screwy Nick]

    Had two great runs today, both pulling Aristo Heavyweights.   I have a decision to make.   I am either going to keep them permanently coupled together and make a one piece carrier or install a Rectus fitting on the high pressure side of the axel feed, which is the one I'm leaning towards.  LG   

[Screwy Nick]

    I did it, installed the snap fittings on the high pressure hose this morning, tested and all is well.  Now (lazy me) doesn't have to make a larger carrier to take it to the track.  I'm at a loss as how to further improve this loco, so will just enjoy running it.    Life is Good.    

[Screwy Nick]

  Yesterday was a wet day, so decided to work with what I had and not wait for the mini servos.     Here's what I've got done so far.  

you can see the quick disconnect fitting next to the servo arm.    LG 

[Screwy Nick]

Tested the R/C to make sure it would function in use being so close to the radiant burner, with the windows glazed and so little air circulation I wasn't sure it would survive for very long. It did for an over 45 min run with the cab roof on and the sliding hatch open. Ultimately time will tell. 
I am in the process of modifying the exhaust , which is just an open pipe and makes for a very messy running loco. The boiler front is easy to remove, but the view of the exhaust system was blocked by the super heater pipe and couldn't really see to the bottom. Not knowing what is really down there I did't want to stress and break something. I found a piece of KS #119 5/32 Round copper tubing that snugly slid down over the existing pipe. The existing pipe ended 33MM below the stack, so had plenty of room to do what I had in mind. I then did what Accucraft did on some of their previous locos, pinched the end and drilled a few holes on the sides of the pipe. This allows unblocked exhaust while directing the spent oil to drip down and out. I'll run it again tomorrow to see the results.

 

In the mean time, Enjoy the holiday weekend. Life is Good

[Screwy Nick]

The pinched exhaust pipe with the holes was a failure. I while it kept the loco a little cleaner, was far from what I had hoped for. I took a Chuffer out of an AML Docksider that I had sent Summerlands the measurements for and they built a Chuffer. I copied it using brass tubing and the copper pipe that slips over the existing exhaust pipe. I made sure the opening is situated close in relation to where the real one is with the existing stack. I don't expect the chuff sound, only hope for better results in keeping it clean. thank you.

[Screwy Nick]

  The device did keep the locomotive clean and am very happy with at, and as expected no sound.

On another forum some one mentioned that this loco and tender had a scoop to pic water on the fly.  So I fashioned one using scraps of brass and mini washers and nuts.  I originally painted black to match the underside of the tender, but it seemed to hide too much of the detail, so lightened it up with grey.  Would really like to be a bit darker, but this is OK for now.    LG

Edited July 24, 2016 by Screwy Nick
added more pics

[Screwy Nick]

  I have to say that while I was happy with the cleaner locomotive, I was very disappointed that I had also lost the much desired PLUMES that we LS'ers just love to see.

I modified the new exhaust pipe to have a SS mesh in place of the center section of the pipe.  MUCH better,  the locomotive is clean and a I now have my PLUMES back, in spades. The small brass strips on the sides are just to keep the assembly rigid.   LG

[du-bousquetaire]

Very nice scoop Nick. I am not sure that all G5 had scoops although this may be PRR Policy, to be standard. But many operated on branches that did not provide water pans in particular around Pittsburgh and also on the Reading and Potsville lines as well as on the Long Island. I do wish someone would turn out a P70 coach. I can make one but life is short and having a ready built one is simpler. Especially the particular trucks.