enginear joe Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 Looks like there was plenty of room for a flywheel inside. Trouble now for me is that NWSL only sent the brushes. The tech thought the brushes included everything I would need. Now I can't get a response from them? Luckily Larry sent me the springs. Thanks Larry! I would like to add sliders if possible. The wheel spacing on these seems way to tight? I should have just used MTH trucks. I spent a couple of days playing with 1/2" copper pipe and caps for the air tanks. Then, I overheated them and burned out the flux. I may have to start over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 11, 2016 Author Share Posted September 11, 2016 I can't help it. I fired her up for fun. Still much more work to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 I need to keep up with the pictures per Larry! I added more weight with an idea that Ray Manley shared here on the forum. I think she weighs around six pounds now. I put the GT side frames on for looks right now. There'll be a lot more detail work I need to get done and the lighting installed. Then she'll be ready for a paint job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xl_special Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Joe, I had NWSL machine flywheels to fit these trucks. It requires you to remove the worm gear, press on a bushing and flywheel, then reinstall the worm gear with some Glue on it when you press it on. Spacing is critical (the distance from the ball bearing in the worm gear) to the metal plate. I have extra's of the bushings and flywheels if you need them. Robert Brown made me some decals to fit these flywheels so DCS works well with them. Its very tight inside but it can be done. I can also loan you the NWSL tools you'll need to remove the worm gear. As far as for using MTH powered trucks goes, if you can find them, use them. If you'd like I'll post some pictures of the inside of these powered trucks with the flywheel installed. You made a comment about wheel spacing. If that's off, then its easy to use the NWSL tool to correct the gauge. I think you'll be happy with them once you get them setup correctly. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 Thanks Larry, but I maybe done with these trucks! I installed MTH's PS2 inside and took her out back to test. I must have put too many cars on as the second time around the yard she stalled on my 1% + grade. I ran her around a total of four times ,each lap with less cars, when I heard gear noise. The rear most axle now spins freely. I don't care why, I'm done with these. I will install the MTH trucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 OK now as I've walked away for a bit. Curiosity struck me again and I tore into the truck. Ends up the gears are still intact. The worm gear on the rear most axle is spinning on it's shaft! I have everything glued in and secured so I don't have full access. I tried to clean the shaft with alcohol that was slightly exposed. I put a little dab of Gorilla super glue on it and drove the worm back near in place. I doubt it will hold but let's see. I may have to tear the motor out to get better access to the worm gears. I was surprised as I had not removed this worm gear. I was inside this truck as it was missing the pick-ups and I greased everything, maybe too well? I have installed the tach reader and flywheel on the other end of this motor. I will still prepare to swap out the trucks as needed. MTH's trucks have spoiled me. I have no luck with any other brand so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry B44 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 I found the same thing with the NWSL trucks I had. Larry worked mine over for me, but they still died. I think the USA two axle trucks look fine with them. I have them on my Great Trains F7. One pair of NWSL's are clinging to life on the B unit it seems. jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Use blue loctite on loose worm gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 I'll try the Loctite if it comes loose again. I'm tempted to pull them all and redo them. I'm hoping the one came loose because I was working on the other end of the motor shaft. I was shocked that they aren't a tighter fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Well that stuff is mass produced and where one worm gear fits tight the next one can be snug..or loose. I make flywheels out of black Acetal/ Delrin rod as it cuts on a lathe real nice. The hole for the armature doesn't have to be a precise fit as plastic will stretch. Can usually press on a flywheel with thumb pressure which makes it nice for locating when assembling motor to the case. Slide flywheel where it needs to be with a screwdriver. Then lock it on shaft with some thin super glue...works great! Plastic is low rotating mass so it doesn't set up a vibration when spinning...not like brass does. Worst worm gears I ever pulled are the USA Trains 2 axles drives. They have small pieces of shafting pressed into the ends of the worms for spacers then 1 steel ball inserted and I swear they solder some of that stuff together. Usually have to heat the worm gears with a small torch to where they start glowing red before they move. Gotta use that heat putty between the worm & motor to stop the heat from traveling up into the motor. Heat putty that plumbers and gunsmiths use. If blue loctite doesn't work then try green...then red. I also use Loctite Quick Metal though JB Weld would work too...just takes overnight to dry...even under a small lamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 I'm watching the Genesis post build and that motivated me to get back at this. I had to make side vents and don't have access to a laser cutter. So I'm filing and drilling to achieve the look I want. I drilled and filed out the exhaust stack so I could add smoke. I also added ditch lights but they aren't perfect. I will have to spend some time drilling and routing wires for all the lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 I shot some black on the top to get started on the paint scheme.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 I thought it looked better in black so I gave it a third spray.... ( I still have to paint the frame) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 Got most of the lights installed. It's tuff to stay with a project with other stuff needing attention too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Just some info on the two NWSL 1:32 4 wheel trucks that I just bought from NWSL, and just like the last set that I bought, one wheel on each truck spins freely on the axle. I called Dave and he said to rough up the axle and put it back together, didn't work, so I superglued it, and it worked. If it gives me any problems in the future, I think I will pull apart and make a tight brass bushing instead of the plastic insulator, tired of the wheels not tight. I have also thought of putting a ball bearing in the slide out axle holder, but that is in the future. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 I had this same problem with mine. I ended up grinding the motor shaft with my Dremel to create a rougher surface and a slight flat spot. I noticed that the original worm gear had solder on it that seemed to be covering up the end hole. When I re-installed it I heated it up pretty good. The solder then flowed into the hole. I tried to remove the gear after it cooled and couldn't. I had intended to use Locktite threadlocker to hold it. So I have a tube of Loctite waiting to see if it comes loose again. Super glue didn't hold for me more than half a lap! It might have been from oil or grease interfering with the bond? I believe they drilled the worm's hole too large at the factory. It shouldn't slide so easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 I have another plan if the wheel doesn't hold on the axle. I am going to grind a fine slot bridging the axle, insulator and the wheel and CA or epoxy a pin in the slot, I think that might work. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Lately I've been having great luck using the Gorilla brand super glue with the blue tip/ cover. It has a rubberizer compound in it so joint won't get brittle. I've been using it to fasten loose brass detail parts on the inside of a USA Big Boy & tender with amazing results! Also using it to hold brass track to ties so track joints stay inline at lift bridge joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Sounds good to me. I think I will try it. Also, I don't like the lock star press on washer provided with the NWSL trucks, so I ordered some shaft collar locks secured by allen head screws that I will post when I get them. That way, I can remove the truck without destroying the one that NWSL sent me. I ordered two different types. One is a one piece split collar, and the other one is a two piece type so that I can thread the electrical plugs through them, again, I will post pictures of them. They cost about 8 bucks for one type and the other about 12. Well worth it to me, and they are stainless. They are manufactured by Ruland manufacturing. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 I cut a groove in my trucks and slid on an E clip. I didn't realize you had described a wheel in the post above. After fighting with that worm gear for so long, I didn't realize a wheel could be loose as well. My rear most wheels turned because the worm slipped off the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Yes, I meant the wheel, I hope the gear doesn't slip. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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