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GE P42 phase VI Kitbash or slice up


rbrown7713
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The model airplane guys are using, of all things, acrylic floor wax.  Obviously it is not wax, but a hard drying clear.  It is also used, with clear plastic windows.  You dip it in it and when it dries, you can use CA to glue them in without having to worry about fogging the clear plastic.  I am going to acrylic paints, I think that will get better results, maybe. Bob.  Tod, I am pouring the second part of the mold tomorrow, had to let the first part set a bit more. Bob.

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Nice work, the edges look better than what I was able to do. I,ll try harder.   That is a beautiful looking model Tod.  I want to do a Los Angeles Transit red car someday. Here is the stuff that I am to find for clear coat and decals:  "Pledge Floor Care Tile & Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine"  UPC number 46500 00182 , SC Johnson product number 741321  Bob. 

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For stripes/ color separation I use Tamiya line tape...pricey yes but it leaves a clean crisp edge. Can obtain the same results with regular thick masking tape but have to stick it to a piece of glass first then cut new edges with hobby knife & straightedge to get a "clean" edge.

 

I use automotive paints that are so chemically "hot" with a top shelf airbrush that there is no bleed under when striping. Toss those rattle cans in the trash as that paint is way too thick & slow setting.

 

Genesis is looking great...well amazing really! 

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Yes, I agree.  I am approaching it from the acrylic paint angle and reducing the flow, and applying more slowly, I get too anxious.  Tod, I just poured the second part of the mold and will test a part and then send it. Tod, yours looks just like it. Bob.

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Here is a new one for me. I am trying to make the single number board, yes, more number board stuff.  This is for the front of the loco. I have to make the rear also.  This method might or might not work, so we shall all see if it will.  I printed out the number on a laser printer because the ink is water proof, as opposed to the inkjet, is not.  I am using Future clear acrylic floor finish to bond the number 42 on the back of the glass/clear plastic, and hopefully when it dries,  The number was printed on glossy photo paper and the light will pass through the white number, as it worked on the E8. After looking for a long time where to buy this Pledge acrylic floor finish, previously called Future, low and behold, I found it at my corner Walmart store.  I will be able to attach another .020 clear plastic on the other side, also dipped in Future..  Everything will be covered with Future floor finish.  The advantage is that super glue won't be able to fog the clear plastic. I don't trust some other glues that I have tried.  The board, hopefully will fit flush with the painted surface and look, I hope, good, we shall see. I have been watching YouTube videos on how the small plastic aircraft modelers do some of these miniature canopies and taking lessons on how they do it.  Now I am going to work on the rear two number boards, and don't know, as yet, how to do it.  Bob.

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Well, I am trying to follow the methods that plastic model airplane builders use to attach clear glass to models and I am sure reluctant, but I am forging ahead.  What I am trying to do is make the windshields look flush and realistic, we shall see.  Here is the rough glue of the glass and the numberboard. Bob.

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Here is an update on my making flush windshields.  I didn't like the model airplane method.  I took the windows out and reinstalled them with epoxy mixed with micro balloons, what I am used to.  I sanded the entire front face with 800 wet or dry and now I have brushed on some primer for smoothness and then I will re polish the clear plastic,  and then mask and paint. I feel a little more at ease doing it this way and think that it will come out good. Bob.

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Well... just so you know, I should have posted that I was amazed at the extra work you are going thru to capture the look.

 Most times, I get lazy and say "that's good enough". For some reason, that saying pops back up for years every time I will look at the model I built. In my head I remind myself that I settled and that's why it fell short.

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I am the same way, but I probably don't have as good as memory as you, so when I say "It's good enough" I forget about it and just enjoy the creation.  Here is the buffed glass and, yes, It's good enough for me, as I am tired of sanding.  I blocked it with 800, it seemed like forever, and then hit it with 2000 and then buffed it with very light compound. I will say one thing, with all of that sanding, it is flush. Now, it is time for the sizing of the glass with masking tape and painting the rest. Bob.

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Thanks for the really big thumbs up, I appreciate it.  I couldn't wait, so I painted the the cab and here it is.  It will look better when I get the black seal around the glass.  Not my best effort, but I am tired. Bob.

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Master Model Maker, Bob Brown. There have been many who fall into this group including the late Ralph Brown Known for most of the Great Trains models. He also did some outstanding heavyweights along with the E-7A. And now we have Bob Brown who's work must fall into the "Master Model Maker" class. My hat is off to you Bob with the work you've done on the P42. You have really blown me away with this model. Its just too bad I'll never own one in 32nd scale. My guess is, one was enough. I hope you'll post a video when you run it.  Larry

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I truly thank you for your kind comments Larry, but I don't consider myself to be a "Master Model Maker", just a guy that loves the challenge of creating the likeness of some of the prototypes. I have seen some of the models that the members build here and I don't come close to there skill, you included, with your Union Pacific E8, or the guy that is making a brass P42, now that guy is a master, highlighted in some of my previous posts.  I remember Ralph Brown and remember talking to him on the phone, and ordering some grills from him for my E8.  I also like sharing the things that I do and I hope they are taken with the grain of salt, meaning that, there are more than one way to do some of these techniques, but these are the ways that I do them.  I really have thoughts of making my models with more detail, but by the time I am ready to add detail to them, I come up with another idea and start on another model before I finish the previous one.  Maybe someday, I will go back and add detail to my models to make them something to really look at.  I thank you again for your generous comments, but I don't deserve them. Bob.

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