rbrown7713 Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 I mentioned that I would like to build a P42. I looked at this LGB P42 with all of the flat areas to be able to remove sections and reduce from an approximate scale of 1:27 to 1:32. I, at first, was going to start from scratch and make molds, but before I do, I am going to try to reduce the size of the LGB model. The height has to be reduced about 1 inch and the width about 5/8th of an inch. I am going to keep the length and call it phase VI. I will use the F7 trucks, as it is the same tread. I will redo the side frames from the LGB to make them look similar and use MTH electronics and also battery powered. If it doesn't look good, than I will someday start from scratch and do it the right way, we shall see. Here is the first cutting of some of the parts and tomorrow I will mill about 5/8ths of an inch from the center of the roof and the bottom section. I will probably have to make patterns for the front end and the rear to make them look proper. I am sure if any LGB lovers see this, they would like to shoot me for cutting up such a beautiful model. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 I'm happy you are doing this! I thought about it several times and shied away. I have 2 of the matching LGB café cars. I would have to do this to them as well. I would also want at least 2 or 3 coaches that I don't even have to chop. So, I ended up with the idea of just running them separately and selling them off someday. I wish 1/32 was used by more manufacturers as a standard. After seeing so many other modelers bash it, I actually wondered if I chose the wrong scale. I just run both. After getting a couple of the latest 1/32 scale Accucraft pass cars, it pointed me back to my original ideas. Sorry to interrupt your post. I commend you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 Thanks for the encouragement. It won't be exactly scale, as I am taking some license to preserve some of the details that I don't want to reproduce, because it looks good as it is. Since I am keeping the LGB length, I think it will be an interesting loco. I asked Jerry, but he hasn't answered yet, so I will ask you. Rather than buying a one gauge MTH loco for the power and sound, can I use the electronics from an MTH O gauge loco for the electronics. I already have the powered trucks from an F7. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todsmods Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 Ill be watching this project bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 9 hours ago, rbrown7713 said: Thanks for the encouragement. It won't be exactly scale, as I am taking some license to preserve some of the details that I don't want to reproduce, because it looks good as it is. Since I am keeping the LGB length, I think it will be an interesting loco. I asked Jerry, but he hasn't answered yet, so I will ask you. Rather than buying a one gauge MTH loco for the power and sound, can I use the electronics from an MTH O gauge loco for the electronics. I already have the powered trucks from an F7. Bob. Yes you can use the O Gauge electronics but IMHO you'd be better off buying a new PS3 diesel upgrade kit as it has all the new features + better sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 Thank you very much Chuck. I thought it would, but I didn't know for sure. Now I know. One other thing. All of my hand held controllers and TIA's are PS2. Will they work with a PS3 loco? Where do I find the kit if I have to upgrade? I appreciate the information, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 Ray has the kits. You have to use the newer dcs versions to upload ps3 sounds. It is also recommended to use dc power on the upload. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 The kit does not have all the lighting features activated in the sound set as say a factory diesel does. The headlight will, and so does some others so you'll have to decide if it's worth it. If you already have the O scale board, I would just use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 Well, I found an MTH O gauge Genesis loco with PS2, so the sounds should be correct for that loco. I don't know about the lights, I can probably use them also. Thanks everyone for your help. I know the sounds that I used for my E8 are PS 2 downloaded from an O gauge E8 diesel sound set and they sound very good, so maybe, for me, PS2 will be OK. Well out to the shop to continue to slice up the shell some more. I have no idea how this will come out, but it is fun anyway. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 47 minutes ago, enginear joe said: The kit does not have all the lighting features activated in the sound set as say a factory diesel does. The headlight will, and so does some others so you'll have to decide if it's worth it. If you already have the O scale board, I would just use it. How do you come up with that when the soundfiles that are downloaded are exactly the same files that the factory uses? PS3 boards are way superior over any PS2 boards ever produced...and so are the soundfiles. PS2 is ancient 10 year old technology. PS3 is non-polarity sensitive with way more lighting functions available than PS2. Join the MTHRRC and you can buy the kits direct from MTH for $170.00 and they send you a free piece of rolling stock that's well worth the price of the membership. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman4449 Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 I too recommend going with PS3 especially for G scale because we operate in DC power(no more potential runaway issues on missed watchdog signal on initial power-up of layout) and 2 rail(no more polarity issue/switch required on engine) and all the other reasons noted as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 Rayman, I will probably upgrade to PS3, but have to learn more about it. Chuck: ( How do you come up with that when the soundfiles that are downloaded are exactly the same files that the factory uses?) Ok, I was talking about my 1:32 E8, and I couldn't find the file listed on my DCS control, so I downloaded the sound file for the O gauge E8 for my loco. I think that is what you were asking. As to the O gauge Genesis, the correct sound file should be there or I might have to download that file also, because there is no one gauge Genesis. I don't know all that I am supposed to know, so straighten me out. Here is a picture of the shell on the mill. I just scored the cuts and will finish with a dremel. I didn't want any surprises from the cuts, like vibration when cutting through. I made two cuts, 1/4 inch on either side, trying to miss any valuable detail and to keep the center intact, also will be better for the curvature of the roof. After this I will cut the bottom portion, probably the same way to keep the screw holes alligned, I hope. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Listen, I believe PS3 is better, much better in some ways. No battery, no polarity, etc. If I had a good PS2 board right here, and someone suggested I dump it for PS3, I would try it. So I did. It was good. It wasn't all that it should have been. The sounds for PS3 can be loaded into a PS2 board, if they are the earlier smaller files. My PS3 upgrade kit did not have all the lights activated. Even after downloading different files. Maybe just me there but that was then. I hope that is cured. I contacted MTH and they told me that the kit would not have all the features that the factory model could have. Like they would save something like Lionel does with Legacy. I see some guys have cracked this with smoking whistles and such. I still have many, many PS2 engines here all running well. Until they die, they will not be upgraded. I like PS3 better. I can't afford to upgrade 100 engines all at once. My PS2 run with PS3 in the same train just fine. I will say again with confidence, if you have a PS2 board right there handy, go with it. Adding a polarity switch is not that difficult. Replacing the battery with a BCR2 is easy. Here's a PS2 and a PS3 running together, just one set of the many I have.... Now Chuck and Ray here I would classify as advanced users, to say the least. I listen to both of them and have learned from them. I'm sure they can do more than I can with these kits from MTH. My opinion is just that, free to take or leave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Oh yeah, back to the topic, I'm watching in amazement. I didn't even know where to begin cutting. Of course I'll have to do mine by hand as I don't have access to a mill. Unless I build a router jig.....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 Actually Joe, I am cutting all of these sections by hand with a Dremel cutoff blade. The mill was used as a guide, I thought, but I could have cut it as well by marking a straight line with a thin line marker. Here is a picture of the side panel sitting on the bottom frame. I removed the blue line on the side, about 5/8ths of an inch or whatever thickness of the blue line is. I took two cuts on the roof, 1/4 inch each and 1/4 inch off of the bottom of the skirt, so far. The ends are turning out to be a challenge. I might have to start from scratch for the ends. I agree, I might just stay with the PS2. My E8 sounds good and all of the bells and whistles work also. Those Dreyfus locos are beautiful. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 15 hours ago, enginear joe said: Listen, I believe PS3 is better, much better in some ways. No battery, no polarity, etc. If I had a good PS2 board right here, and someone suggested I dump it for PS3, I would try it. So I did. It was good. It wasn't all that it should have been. The sounds for PS3 can be loaded into a PS2 board, if they are the earlier smaller files. My PS3 upgrade kit did not have all the lights activated. Even after downloading different files. Maybe just me there but that was then. I hope that is cured. I contacted MTH and they told me that the kit would not have all the features that the factory model could have. Like they would save something like Lionel does with Legacy. I see some guys have cracked this with smoking whistles and such. I still have many, many PS2 engines here all running well. Until they die, they will not be upgraded. I like PS3 better. I can't afford to upgrade 100 engines all at once. My PS2 run with PS3 in the same train just fine. I will say again with confidence, if you have a PS2 board right there handy, go with it. Adding a polarity switch is not that difficult. Replacing the battery with a BCR2 is easy. Here's a PS2 and a PS3 running together, just one set of the many I have.... Now Chuck and Ray here I would classify as advanced users, to say the least. I listen to both of them and have learned from them. I'm sure they can do more than I can with these kits from MTH. My opinion is just that, free to take or leave. Now you're getting way out there with the line "The sounds for PS3 can be loaded into a PS2 board, if they are the earlier smaller files." Uh it's the other way around that is PS2 files can be loaded onto PS3 boards...or so they say...I use PS3 soundfiles. I have never yet seen a PS3 soundfile that didn't have all the exact same lighting functions as the engine from which the soundfile was chosen and the same locomotive chain file was used. Also PS3 has much better DCS signal processors onboard than any PS2 board version made. Now if you use a PS3/2 board to upgrade a PS2 equipped loco you can have lighting issues. Polarity switches are useless if you're using a reverse loop with a auto-detector...what happens out on the mainline when the track polarity is reversed with those PS2 loco's?? You lose control as in "engine not on track". Heck with PS2 you can't even crossover from one mainline to another with opposite polarities without blowing fuses...real nice can't even use a crossover. Having to throw a polarity switch when on a turntable or in a wye turn around then having to restart PS2 boards just to save a few $$$ doesn't make sense in my book. Personally I don't care if you have 1,000 locomotives with PS2...I would update them all to PS3 and sell the PS2 boards for say $100 each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 I appreciate all of the hints and advice and here is what I am going to do. The O gauge donor loco. is a P42 with PS2. I am going with that unless some functions don't work. Lights should work, horn, brakes, and bell, and motor control. That is all that I need. It will be all I can do to make the conversion into the one gauge loco. I am not that smart, I don't think for the conversion, unless I have to, so thanks everyone and I will keep everyone up to date on my progress. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 Here is the frame reduced to 3 3/4 inches in width. I removed a 1/4 inch strip on either side and adhered with CA. Seems to be very strong. I also retained all of the frame to shell screw attach points. Here are some pics. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 Here the roof is installed and now the ends. Of course, instead of 4200 hp., this one will have 6,000, hence the larger fan and larger intakes. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Nice job....on the specs too! I can't wait to see her next to 1/32 scale pass cars. You must have felt the length was good? I may copy this work someday soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 Thanks, but let's see how it turns out. I am now trying to cut up the ends and make it look good, and if they don't, then I will make a pattern and mold, after all, that is what I am trying to eliminate. Yes, I am taking some license on the length, as it wasn't worth it to cut it in the middle, after all, this is a P6000. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 Here is the rear installed and now the front. This was easy, but the front will be a challenge. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 I was just looking at mine and comparing it in my mind to a picture on the net. The real one looks longer and the LGB looks shorter yet taller than it should. I bet keeping the length will give the correct appearance. I'm interested to see it overall now. I think you've made the best choices! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 I am having a heck of a time with the nose, too many angles. I will try to make the nose look good, but I might have to make a pattern for the nose and start from scratch, not going well. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Geometry kicks in here, when on most diesels it doesn't matter as much. This engine has curves and angles. Hey,, Make a clay cast of the face and put it in the kiln. It will shrink from 1/27 to 1/32. Well, just maybe close enough?? Wish I had a shrink machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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