todsmods Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Bob have the cab 3d scanned and print a copy slightly smaller . Just a thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 That would be a good idea, but I don't have a scanner, but here is what I have sliced up. Pretty close and almost a cigar. I scaled the windshields and the width and the height, as close as I could get it, as everything is a trade off and one has to compromise doing it this way. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 Here is the rough product and now the body work. I retained the removable access door on the roof and I might do one more thing and that is to make the rear door look a little more 1:32. It was a blast until I got to the nose, wasn't so much fun then, but I think it is OK now. Here are some pics. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 I always wanted the wave scheme (phase 5) anyways so this project could be the catalyst to a paint job for me. For some reason mine does not pull very much? I believe there's something wrong with the tires? If she's made into 1/32, I could put my MTH Pepsi can Amtrak dash 8 behind her or my new GT F40PH too. I guess I know what has to be done.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todsmods Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 That photo looks like a locomotive amputation ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todsmods Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 Over here in Australia we have a chain of stores called officeworks that have a 3d scanning and printing service for a small fee they will scan your item and custom print it out for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 6, 2016 Author Share Posted October 6, 2016 Poor locomotive. That is why I didn't decrease the length of the LGB P42, because I don't like the sight of blood. I measured the P60 and it is just 6 scale ft. longer than it should be, not enough for me to sacrifice some of the detail for that much difference. After all, it is a P 60, with 6000hp. instead of 4200. Well now some body work and I will try to surgically try to preserve some of the Amtrak lettering and blend in the colors, if not, I will repaint the whole thing. I am sure Tod, that there are services around here that would do the same thing, but that is why I am in the hobby, to do things like this for fun. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 6, 2016 Author Share Posted October 6, 2016 Easy to install the electronics. I used the metal frame from the O gauge P42 and mounted it to my frame. The lights are the same, so I just have to stretch out some wires. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Hmmm, still has the QSI logo on the chip. I'm guessing proto 1 or even earlier? Not command control if it is. Good sounds though. I don't know about DC power though. Those 3 rail models were designed for AC. The 2 rail, was DC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Well, I guess I didn't know enough to ask the right questions, so I bought the wrong thing. Oh well, I'll hunt for another setup. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 So, If it O gauge and says it's Proto 2 or 3, and it is 3 rail, is that DC? or does it have to be 2 rail? Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 OK, I think I got it right this time. I bought an SD70 locomotive with PS3. I hope this works. I found out that the early PS uses AC to the circuit board and then changes it to DC to the motors. It doesn't matter if it is 2 or 3 rail, the motors are DC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Well, it goes by what they released. I can't see why applying DC to any of them would hurt. I believe it wouldn't be able to trigger the sounds. I'm not that good at electronics so maybe ask Ray? Any of the newer MTH engines can run on either AC or DC (except for their HO stuff). I make a lot of engines into 2 rail for my layout. The boards don't know what they're running on. Anyways I'm talking from what I've seen over the years inside of what I've bought. Even the earlier proto 2, with what's known as 5 volt boards, I have very little experience with. The few that I have bought were DOA. That was only out for a very few years from like 2000 to 2002 roughly. Before that was just called "Protosounds" and was not even command. MTH separated from QSI and created their own boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 You answered while I was typing. Yes, a PS3 SD70 will definitely work! The PS board in that O scale will work also. It just won't be running in command mode. Do you have any idea how old it is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Thanks, Joe, like I said in the post before yours, I bought a PS3, so I think that will work and it is new. The ditch lights work also, so that will work with the P42. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Hey Joe, one more question. Do I now have to get a PS3 DCS TIA and hand held controller?, or will the PS2 DCS stuff that I have work with the PS3 loco? Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 OK, I read Raymans page and my PS2 tia and controller will work with the new PS3, so no problem. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 If you want to change the sounds on a PS3 board, it is recommended that you use DC power. Also, I believe only the later releases of DCS will talk to the PS3 board correctly. Some older versions either won't talk to it, or may even scramble it. I believe you need at least DCS 4.x or later. The loader should be the latest also. Ray may explain it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Thanks Joe, I will check on it, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 I was trying to find info on what board is in your picture. I did come across this about an upgraded version http://ctt.trains.com/how-to/product-reviews/2006/05/qs-3000-sound-system-upgrade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 Thanks Joe. I talked to Rayman and he straightened me out. I have 4 TIA's with varying hardware versions and all of them will work with PS 2 or 3. The only thing that I will have to do is load the sound file to the PS3 engine. I don't need the USB, so I am set. After I finish the P60 bash, I am going to upgrade my E8 to PS3, to get rid of the battery and the polarity issue, so I finally understand. Thanks again, Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 1 hour ago, rbrown7713 said: Thanks Joe. I talked to Rayman and he straightened me out. I have 4 TIA's with varying hardware versions and all of them will work with PS 2 or 3. The only thing that I will have to do is load the sound file to the PS3 engine. I don't need the USB, so I am set. After I finish the P60 bash, I am going to upgrade my E8 to PS3, to get rid of the battery and the polarity issue, so I finally understand. Thanks again, Bob. I thought your E8 ran on battery???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 I meant the 9 volt battery that is part of the electronics that goes into the loco. The PS 3 doesn't have that battery or the polarity issues that the PS 2 has. Yes, I run my engines on 18 volts. Bob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginear joe Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Yes Bob, and to clarify my statement, if it runs on battery power instead of track power, what would matter about the polarity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown7713 Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 I was talking about the problem with PS2 acceleration problem, and I think that has to do with sensing polarity when the system is powering up. The PS3 does not have the acceleration problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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