Choosing the right power and controller for G scale track

[jerryemt2001]

I am new to G scale.  Almost all of my trains are MTH operated via the MTH DCS with TIU and remote.  Just recently I bought the MTH one gauge Railking GG-1 and two Aristo craft trolleys.  I am slowly buying track but I am researching the best way to power and control my G scale power units (it will be a modest 12' x 15' oval).  Here is my dilemma:  I like the features of the MTH GG-1 with PS2 so I was looking at using the MTH Commander with the Z-1000 brick.  This way I can run the GG-1 and future MTH one gauge engines along with the Aristo-Craft trolleys (not necessarily at the same time on the track with the MTH).  As you know the MTH one gaugers run on AC/DC but the Aristo trolleys soley operate in DC mode.  I think the Commander might fill the bill but I was told it only puts out 6 amps and those amps will be quickly used by power units equipped with lights or smoke units.  I like the USA Trains Power 10 (10 amps) contoller/power but while my MTH trains will run on it I believe would lose the PS2 functions, sounds, and features.  What would you guys recommend?  I doubt I will expand beyond 12'x15'.  Think I can get by with the Commander and operating the two trolleys at once or just one MTH engine?  Thanks!

[enginear joe]

 I really don't know much about the commander and would wait for the guys to answer your questions.

. I have the whole DCS system. I have powered my G scale DCS layout with both AC or DC, with good results. When you run MTH PS2 engines on straight DC, you can't use the functions. Just the standard engine sounds that change according to the throttle. If you used an AC transformer with bell and horn controls, I believe those will trigger the engine's horn and bell sounds.

 I got by for years with a ten amp Lionel AC brick and the DCS system.

The engines use another amp each when the smoke is on.

[Rayman4449]

Joe covered it... If you are using the TIU and remote it doesn't matter what power supply you use with it, you will always have access and control to all the available features.  The only time you lose features is if you are using an MTH AC power supply (with bell and whistle buttons) without using the TIU and remote and switch to a DC power supply when not using the TIU and remote...(as Joe said just running the trains on straight track power with no digital control via the TIU and remote) then you will not be able to trigger the bell and whistle with the power supply buttons because they aren't there.

 

The DCS commander is a remote, TIU and power built into one unit.  Since you already have the TIU and remote I would get a separate DC power supply and not bother getting the DCS commander.  Since you are going to be powering a relatively small oval you should be able to use just about any power supply and it work with no issues.

 

The USA Trains power supply should work good. (Although I'm a big proponent for Bridgewerks)

 

Hope this helps some.

 

-Raymond

[jerryemt2001]

If I am understanding correctly, I think you are suggesting I get a DC power source for my existing MTH TIU/Remote that I already have.  That is doable.  I am thinking of buying either the Bridgewerks Mag 15 or the USA Trains Power 10. That way I can operate my MTH GG-1 and get the benefits of PS2 functions and also operate my Aristo-Craft trolleys that only go forward or reverse (no sound, no functions).  THanks!    

[Rayman4449]

Hi, yes that's it and you will be good to go.  On the Bridgewerks Mag 15, do not get that and use it alone...  That is an unregulated power brick that is intended to be used with their line of unpowered throttles and outputs 35v+.  When used with the unpowered throttles, the power the track sees is controlled by the throttle and is actually good you have that much voltage if you need it, but it is not a good idea to use this alone.  

 

Bridgewerks Mag 15 (unregulated brick):  Do not use unless using unpowered throttle to regulate

 

 

What I would get is one of the Magnum SR series if you don't need a PS that outputs over 15amps: (there are 5, 10 and 15amp models)

 

 

The USA Trains power supply will work fine in your case.   If you were trying to signal 250ft+ of track I might more strongly push you to a bridgewerks but with what you're doing the USA will be fine.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Raymond

 

 

[jerryemt2001]

Thanks for the tip.  I want to start slow as most of my interest still lie in O scale.  If I find later I want to expand my G track plans I will then upgrade power source.  But for a 12'x15' oval for my enclosed porch, I think the USA P-10 will work fine.  Thanks for all your help.  This can be quite confusing to a newbie.  I am grateful for forums such as this.

[Rayman4449]

Anytime and welcome to the forums!

[enginear joe]

 One thing I've heard of and never tried, was to add a bridge rectifier of sufficient amp cap to the output of a variable TIU channel that is powered with an AC transformer. That allows the TIU to vary the output (using AC only), while giving DC to the track to run stuff like your trolleys.

[Rayman4449]

That is a good thing to point out Joe, as that would work very well except there would be no reverse.  Still adds another whole level of nice functionality from the same remote which is nice.  

[Cuadrature]

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen. I'm also new to G-Scale railroading, but have been doing HO with DCC control for the past ten years. I believe that at this point I'm proficient with DCC, but I'm somewhat overwhelmed with the number of power options available in G-Scale railroading. At this point I'm not sure whether battery power would be best, or simply proceed with DCC power for my latest adventures in this wonderful hobby of ours. I've been 'listening' to various opinions and comments in several forums, but I think this is perhaps the best place for information on the subject that I've found thus far. I like the idea of not having to clean track, but conversely, the idea of having to purchase multiple batteries and charges does not appeal to me at this point, recognizing however, that ultimately that may be the way to go. Truly, my highest priority is reliability.

 

At this time, I have about 60 feet of LGB brass track (both straight and curved), a Bachmann, 10th Anniversary "Big Hauler", which I love, and several pieces of USA Trains rolling stock. I've tested my engine using a DC power unit, but that was only to see my newest locomotive at work. I will continue to purchase more track, a few switches, and more rolling stock, but I'm waiting on the final power and control system, until I have better understanding of the issues involved. Any pointers and advise will be greatly appreciated. I'm glad that I've found this forum and am looking forward to hearing from you guys and gals.

 

p.s.: Rayman4449. if you're reading this posting, I wish to tell you that I'm very impressed with your several locomotive upgrades and have watched a number of your videos on Youtube. I love the Hudson's videos and the things that you've done with them. I'll be contacting you in reference to upgrading my Annie with a better smoke unit, sound, etc.

 

Warm regards.

 

Eduardo "Eddie" Acevedo

Miami Shores, Florida.     

[enginear joe]

 Hello Eddie!

I hope you get good advice about what to choose. There are many options out there. With the new Lithium Ion batteries out there, I'd be tempted to go battery myself. I'd have a ton of stuff to convert. I spent the last ten years converting all the engines to DCS with track power. I bought as much stainless track as I could find and afford.

 So I may just convert a couple of engines to battery for now to see how I'd like it. Maybe I would just run them in less than ideal conditions where other engine's wheels might get messed up.

[Sean]

 Hello Eddie!

 Maybe I would just run them in less than ideal conditions where other engine's wheels might get messed up.

 

I have an engine that runs on batteries and I use it to run my track cleaning car!

[enginear joe]

I have an engine that runs on batteries and I use it to run my track cleaning car!

 

That is a great idea! I have a pair of diesels that suffer from poor track pick-up. If the wheels see any dirt at all, they won't run well. I've been addressing this with modifying the pick-ups. I won't run them outside for now. I may just switch those 2 to battery if the new pick-ups don't work out.

[John Carmichael]

Hello Bridgewerks Magnum owners:

 

I'm looking to replace my old Crest trackside Train Engineer and remote with a similar remote (with basic forward, reverse, stop and momentum control) for traditional track powered trains using a Bridgewerks  Magnum 10-SR controller.

 

I'm wondering is any of you have tried using Bridgewerk's plug-in remote RC-100  If so, how is its range? Does it have a reverse function and momentum control or is it just a throttle that works in forward only?

 

 

I'm also looking at the Railboss 4 Trackside R/C. https://www.gscalegraphics.net/store/c12/TrackSide_R%2FC.html

 

 

I hate the ergonomics of the old Crest Train engineer with its brick-like shape and the long antenna. I love the small pocket size form of both the Railboss and Bridgewerk remotes. 

 

Thanks for any help with this decision.

 

John

[Rayman4449]

Hi John,

 

I haven't used an RC-100 but according to Bridgewerks it has a range of up to 100ft.  I'm not sure it will actually to forward and reverse, it sounds like it may be throttle only so you may not get reverse.  I sent a question in to Bridgewerks to ask about the direction question.

[Rayman4449]

John, I already got a response from Mark at Bridgewerks:

 

The RC-100 just does in-fact just control throttle up/down. (No Direction)

 

If you want to control direction as well, they have two options:

 

The UR-15 is an 'add on' controller - it takes power from the auxiliary output on a controller and provides it to an additional track - it has a four button remote that allows throttle up & down, direction, as well as an emergency stop.

 

The same four functions are also available in the 1000DL which is a controller which has a built in remote, offering both manual and remote control.  As an added bonus on the 1000DL, the throttle is a T-Bar control, with a servo in it, so if you adjust the speed with the remote, the throttle handle moves up and down.

[John Carmichael]

That was fast Ray!   The RC-100 seems pretty useless without a reverse. Thanks for that Info.  Will investigate it further...

[John Carmichael]

Hello all:

 

I have some useful information that should be helpful to those of you who are using the old Crest Train Engineer Trackside R/C.  Like many of you, I’ve been worrying how we would replace it if it breaks because it was discontinued by the manufacturer (Aristocraft) years ago.

 

Last April I read a very favorable review in Garden Railways magazine about the new Railboss 4 Trackside R/C.  Since there are not many reviews out there yet, the best source of information on it is at their website https://www.gscalegraphics.net/store/c1/Featured_Products.html   I loved the idea of replacing Train Engineer with an inexpensive controller that has a smaller remote without a long antenna.  Be sure to read the excellent manual on the website!

 

I installed and tested the new Railboss 4 Trackside R/C yesterday and am happy to report that it worked flawlessly as advertised.

I absolutely love the little six button remote! It fits so nicely in my hand and in my pocket. I can operate it by feel with my thumb. I was so happy to get rid of that old outdated clunky brick-like heavy Train Engineer remote with that obnoxious antenna!

The Railboss Trackside base station receiver is slightly smaller than the Train Engineer receiver so it fit very nicely in the place in my electrical cabinet where the other one was.

The range of the Railboss 4 was great and reached to the farthest point of my layout.

One last thing, The momentum feature is definitely better with Railboss than with Train Engineer. The engines I tested all started very smoothly at very slow speeds. With Train Engineer, my engines would move in a jerky fashion at very low speeds, but with Railboss, they crawl along smoothly. This is because Railboss has built-in high frequency PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) which makes the motors run smoother at low voltage without overheating. Marvelous!!!

This really is the perfect replacement for the old Train Engineer.