is anyone using this with non-DCC engines?  When entering a new address, does the Transmitter have to detect a decoder?  
 

I can’t get solid information if I can just push the throttle to apply power to the track without selecting a decoder. 
 

I’m slowly but surely losing all 5 of my Crest controllers, help!!!!

Quincy

Nova Scotia, Canada

Aside from the MRC ThrottlePacks what else would work for my purposes?

To illustrate my beginnings:

I do like the black case and lights on this thing 

On my workbench I use the older predecessor model to the Morrison...The Magnum 60T.

I call it my Baby Bridgewerks as it's also rated 3 amps which is fine for bench testing various projects without getting into trouble.

Now if they'd just bring back an updated version of the MAG25TDR or PowerMag in a black case 

Kids are coming over tomorrow.  Help!

I'm new to the G scale trains but have been around O a long time. 

I definitely have a lot to learn in G.

I'm in the process of building a small garden layout around 20' by 40 '.

The lay out will have a outer loop and a inner loop both connected with switches allowing trains to go from the inner loop to the outer loop and return. All track is LGB brass. Outer all R-5 inner has some R-3 track.

The USA Power 10 transformers are the ones with a short remote cord for controlling speed , brake, direction and momentum. I  recently at York purchased the DCS system with the WiFi . Being a Legacy guy I have all the DCS stuff to learn (I do have a copy of latest Barry book) It's like learning spanish sometimes????

I would appreciate assistance on the following questions:

 
Can I use a USA Power 10 transformer for each loop?

Can  the DCS system be  used with the USA Transformers?

If so, how would the 2 transformers be connected to the tiu?

When running non DCS  trains can I just unplug the tiu and run them with the small remote on the USA Power 10 on the separate loops?

If I have stated anything that is incorrect please advise. I am at the start of a learning curve here.

I'll stop there. I have about 1000 questions but I don't want you guys/gals to run me off with my 1st post.

Thanks

Larry

Erwin TN.

http://www.rayman4449.com/Volt_Amp_Meters.htm

the mini panel meter is self powered and came with the shunt.

I have a Bachmann Blue Comet (Atlantic City Express) set that I bought 18ish years ago.  We use it each year at Christmas time (so it has relatively low use), but this year, after it runs for maybe one to two minutes, I can hear the breaker tripping inside the controller.  After a minute or so, it resets and shuts back down, etc.  I tested the locomotive, and free-wheeling it uses about 0.8 amps.  When on the track, it averages 1.2 amps, peaking at 1.5.  My question is, is that too high an amp draw for a 4-6-0 engine, or does it sound like my controller is bad?  If it's the controller, can you recommend a somewhat decent replacement for a very casual user?

Thanks!

After I setup my 23' layout, with the lockon track power connection attached to one of the end curved pieces, and the power on, I had a problem getting the train to run in either  forward or reverse. All other commands to the engine worked fine. Someone suggested to me that I could solve my problem by adding another power lockon to mt setup, so I added the additional power lockon to a curved piece at the opposite end  of the oval from my original power lockon. That gave me two 12V 2.5 amp power supplies providing power to the track. In addition, I cleaned the track to make sure the tender was getting good contact. I turned the set on, making sure both power lockons were on and both were supplying power to the track. THe train worked just fine with this setup. However, for some reason or another, after having run the train a couple of times over the chistmas Holiday, and having it sit idle for three days, I'm back to getting no forward or reverse to the engine. I cleaned the track again, but that did not solve the problem.  I've checked the tender and engine on a test track (made up of two track sections, a lockon track power connection, and an original lionel 12V 2.5 amp A/C adapter) and I get plenty of power to the engine, both forward and reverse, and all of the other commands work as well, so I know, or have to assume,  that the tender and engine electronics are fine. I also have to assume that the problem seems to be in getting enough amps to power the train when it is sitting on the 23' layout.

So, here is the question. Could my problem be that I need to boost the amps to the track layout, and could I achieve that goal by adding yet another 12V 2.5 amp power supply to the layout giving me a total of three 12V 2.5 amp power supplies connectd to the tracks?   

I have a question of how to connect several power units to my tracks.

I have 4, 24V 15A regulated power supplies, that will power 4 different parts of track. Could I just isolate 1 track (positive) and use the other as a common rail, or will this make a short.

On my DCC, H0 rr I have done this (4 boosters), and it goes fine, but wonder if the regulated power unit will do the same.

The power packs will be placed on 2 different places.

I have used two tool boxes with 2, 24V, 1, 5V and 1, 12V regulated power units. I use trailer contacts for connecting them to the rr (see the end of the box).

Ivar

One of the devices I brought into use on my track powered layout was one of these:

http://www.rayman4449.com/Power_remote-cutoff.htm - GE Smart Remote plus outdoor outlet receiver

A remote control that serves as an emergency cut-off to the entire layout in the event of an accident.  I have found through time this is one of the best aspects to running track power is that in the event of a derailment I can instantly stop all trains at the same time as every second counts to limit/prevent damage.  

Another version that I have found that seems to work good too is the Clarion Outdoor outlet control (model: HW2190L)

Raymond