You can work with smaller pieces. Peel the backing from the foil, not the other way. Lay the top edge on and gently bring it down, using your fingers to rub on the foil. It will go over curves/etc, just calculate it in your measurements. If it does not look right(I mess up a good third of them!), just peel it off and do it again. Easy to work with. Get the Nashua brand at True Value or Ace, don't use Walmart's or any other, their foil is about half the thickness. I did my rotary snow plow with it. You can emboss rivet patterns on it from the back, or indents from the front.

Thanks Jerry, I will try some, but I tend to like the spray on stuff, I will try that too and then decide. Bob.

I am slowing down. I am running out of tricks.  Here is what done so far. The last picture is of a full scale. Bob.

Problem with silver spray, to me, is it always seems to show fingerprints or smudges. Maybe a clear coat over the top would help. Spray paints are such a gamble it seems. You use a brand's primer, but their topcoat messes it up, or their clear messes up the top coat. I test everything anymore.

I only experienced the stickyness with the testors little bottles, but I then used Tamiya spray cans and that was not the case.  It dries fully and no stickeyness.  I haven't tried the metal spray that Chuck suggested, but I will. I hope that stuff works out, because it will look more like stainless steel.  Thanks for the headsup. Bob.

http://largescalecentral.com/albums/photo/view/album_id/11688/photo_id/102661/type/random/count/6379/featured/0/interval/overall/title/Random+Photos+from+our+Members/offset/2

Hello Joe. I that one an American Standard 30" Superliner?, looks good, I want one.  Guess I will have to make them.  I fit the floor today.  Bob.

I forget what exactly that one is. I do remember something being mentioned about it. You can see the short one behind it!

.... and I wonder where MTH gets the idea to make them short from?

Those are definitely American Standard by Ralph Brown, so, maybe some will come up on Ebay, ya, lots a luck. Oh well, I better plan on building some, one day. Thanks for the pictures, they are great.  Where did you find them?  Bob.

I am attaching the roof and am making pads for screws.  All of the parts will screw together, roof, sides, ends, floor, easier for mold making. Bob.

One side on and sizing the trucks for height. Bob.

Finally got the ends to fit and now some body work and molds.  I am going to use the trucks as they are, and the windows also, all to make this kitbash as easy as I can. Bob.

Doors are in, almost there. Bob.

Diaphragms have been fit.  I will have to shorten the couplers to make them match to the other car, so more work. Bob.

While I took into consideration the overall height, it wasn't until  I set the car onto the tracks and found that I was 1/2 inch too high, so I am working on the trucks to lower the overall height, and having to do major alterations of the trucks to get the height down.  I had to eliminate the coupler arm that was built into the truck and will have to mount the arm and coupler on the body.  When I am finished, I will have some pictures. Bob. 

That's where it should be!

The look of the height has always thrown me. I think the bright metal tires throws the look off slightly?

Thanks Joe, those pictures help.  Another factor is that if the pictures of the cars are loaded or empty, that would give me a little cushion.  How much do they lower when loaded, I have no idea.  I have another gauge. the height of the P42 by also looking at pictures.  I will zero in on it today adjusting the height of the trucks.  Are the wheels 36 inch?  The LGB wheels are scale 38 inches. Thanks for your info, I appreciate it. Bob.

I should have clarified that I meant that's how the coupler should be mounted.

I'll have to find some info about the wheels, I don't know.

Length over Couplers...............85'4"

Width.........................................10'6"

Height-Rail to Roof Top.........12'8"

Top of Rail to Step Level........17"

Top of Rail to Vestibule Floor.51 1/2"

Approximate Car Weights (ready-to-run):

Amcoach..............................160,000 ibs.

Amcafe.................................110,000 ibs.

- See more at: http://www.trainweb.com/accommod/amfleet.html#sthash.uGDeo77Q.dpuf

&&

https://www.walthers.com/products/name-trains/amfleet-i-ii-cars/

Correct 36" Turned Metal Wheelsets

Thanks again Joe for all of your help and this info. is very helpful.  I found, in my boxes of junk, 36" wheelsets, enough for 5 cars, so I will use them.  I had to drastically alter the trucks to get the ride height down and I will have to make the parts in the picture. I think that the altered trucks will look sufficient for this kitbash.  Next, I will attack the couplers. Bob.

I'd be tempted to just paint the front edges of the LGB wheels black or rust them up.

I ran into this problem with the LGB wheels, one, they are the wrong diam., 2, one of the axles is square because it is the pick up wheels for the lights, so I had to make the journals round.  I cut the other truck round journals out and fit them into the revised trucks, so now all of the wheelsets will fit, here are some pictures.  The frames on the left are the finished frames with the round journals, and the ones on the right are what the originals looked like, square.  You can see the square axle above. This was not in the planning, as this kitbash was supposed to be an easy one.  Bob. 
 

Yes, one axle at each end has ball bearings and power pick-ups. I believe that helps the cars roll so well. I wish they were with all ball bearing journals.

Now I am trying to figure out how to make the diaphragms articulate with turns.  I like to have them actually touch like the full scale and look close to the other car, looks more real.  Walthers even does it with their HO cars, so I should be able to do it with these.  I have done it with my own cloth design and with the MTH cars, but these are a bit different, but I think I can do it. Bob.

I think I have finally found a use for the spring that comes with the hook type couplers, that I have a box full of, from MTH and others.  I have exhausted most of my thoughts on how to easily spring the diaphragms and I think that these springs just might be my answer.  As soon as I have something to look at, I will supply some pictures, as I haven't quite figured it out yet, but I think that I am on the right track. Bob.